If I wanted a full-size I would have got one I like the reliability of Chevy and the mobility small 4x4 so I got the blazer and no I don't mind the extra expenses that's what 4wheelin is all aboutbut I would like to minimize the wear and tear with everyday driving as possible and I'm looking for the best way to do so relatively cheaply

 

Like this lift any one have experience with it http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_s10.html does the upper control arms help with the angle of the hub bearing and CV

 

It's just been recently redesigned and with the small differential drop, it should ease the CV angles. Between all the various s-truck forums, I think there are only a handful of people who've installed it (the redesigned version has only been available for a few weeks though). I've heard there were some faulty parts included and RC has been contacting owners to send them new parts.

more info here:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...14/#post476707

rough country 2.5" - Zr2USA.com

 

I have a few questions do you have to have a torsion key tool to turn the bolts? does this work for front and back? and do you absolutely HAVE to jack the truck up or can you leave it how it normally sits and do this process? Thanks.

 

This only works on the front.

All that is necessary is the appropriate sized socket and a breaker bar to turn it.

Unloading the front suspension by jacking up the front of the vehicle makes turning in the bolts MUCH easier and less likely to damage the threads on the adjuster.

 

Well, thanks for this thread!

I thought I bought a Superlift 2" lift shackle for the rear, around $80, but it turns out to be a 1" lift, guess I was looking at too many part numbers. And I have been trying to decide if I should spend about $550 on the 2" control arm and key kit. I want the 2" so I get the ground clearance without putting too much stress on things, or going so high it ruins freeway driving.

Can anyone compare a Superlift kit to the Rough Country kit? Considering whats been said here so far, and looking at the pictures online, the Superlift kit seems a little more heavy duty. The full kit is around $750, but you can get the "subkits" you want. The rear shackle is much thicker steel than the stock shackle. It doesn't have the differential brackets, but those look like they're just C channel, cut at 45 degrees, with a few holes drilled in - I'm sure I could make that... does anyone have dimensions on those? Size of material, hole size and spacing should do it. I figure 2" channel would be right for a 2" lift, which should keep CVs at the original angle.

I started replacing the lower control arm bushings, which means I've completed one side (had to wait to purchase a hydraulic ram kit to remove bushings, then it was raining, etc). This meant removing the t-bar. I put it back by counting turns, and it ended up a bit lower. I did not check the height before, so it may have been like that, steering/handling was less than perfect before I started. Doing it over again, I would write down height measurements first! So now that I had to adjust the ride height, might as well go all out.

The 1" shackle isn't bad, noticeably higher, but not a huge gap to body (tires one size up from stock). I went ahead and added 1" to the front by cranking the t-bar. Did that on a reasonably flat concrete slab, without jacking it up, but I do have the t-bar tool. I measured from the center edge of the rim to the fender trim, and it looks level and drives well. I did a visual alignment, as it had clearly/visually changed. It was just carefully sighting front wheel to rear wheel, adjust, take for a short drive, repeat - making sure steering wheel was straight when I parked it, and adjusting it less each time.

It's actually handling/steering better than when I started! There is a noticeable stiffness to the front end, even with just 1". It was a little too soft before. It tended to dip when braking, now it doesn't dip and tends to raise (just a little) when accelerating. This makes me think I want the 2" kit, so I can turn down the t-bar to be slightly less stiff while still getting lift.

I too ended up with one side cranked in a bit farther than the other to get it level, but I'll wait to finish the bushings on the other side before I get too concerned about that.

It will get a "real" alignment when it's all done.

 

From what I can tell Rough Country is the only company that offers a 2.5" lift with a differential drop to maintain healthy CV angles. The UCA's are designed to have favourable angles for the ball joints as well. All in all I'd say Rough Country would be the way to go man.

It also comes with torsion keys to take the strain off of the adjustment bolts.

 

i have used the universal shackles on two blazers now a 93 and a 03 no problems

 

Is there a way to count the threads on the adjustment bolt to tell if it's been cranked already? I think mine has already been cranked because it is higher up than stock heights ( I assume it is). I have a 2000 Blazer LS with 31s on it from factory. I want to know the main differences between the ZR2 model and the LS model. (by the way how do I post a pic of my blazer without using a url?) I want to show you mine so you can identify the differences and possible answers as to why mine appears different from other LS models.

 

Don't need to count threads. Look back in this thread and you find specs for front chassis ride height..... measure yours and adjust it to the factory spec.