You can look at the axles, stock should be more or less horizontal - between the CV joints. I'm at about +1", which makes them drop a little on the outside (wheel CV is lower than diff CV). Exactly what I was looking for, just a little more clearance and slightly stiffer ride.

Before I did anything, the bolt heads were about flush with cross member. But since one side was sagging, one bolt is in farther than the other to get it level.

They are spring adjuster bolts, not ride height adjusters. Ride height is an effect of adjusting the springs. Leveling it should mean equal spring "strength" on each side, where ever the bolts end up.

 

zr2's are pretty easy to tell from regular 2 doors. if you have flares and 31's its most likely a zr2. also they have an 8" rear axle unlike normal blazers have a 7" rear. If you're still not sure open ur glovebox and look at the sticker in there with a bunch of codes. if it is in fact a zr2 that will be one of the codes listed. zr2's don't already have a torsion lift so in fact you can get another 2" of lift on a zr2 by cranking the tbars.

 

So i have been reading up on this. i have a 99 ls 2 door rear wheel drive and i have no idea if this is going to work on a 2 wheel drive. Does anyone know if this is possible on my blazer?

 

ZR2 & 4WD only.

 

Well shoot. Thanks for the help though i guess that i am going to have to just get creative with trying to lift this blazer.

 

i did a lift i got new keys installed and cranked it all the way up and im having issues with my camber now. is there anyway i can fix this or do i need longer upper control arms cuz i have negative camber and all my front inside tires are wearing down fast.

 

This is to be expected and normal. Camber is not the only thing that gets messed up when you adjust torsion bars without understandsing what they do, and what happens as a result. The best way to fix the suspension & steering problems is free. Adjust front chassis ride height back to factory specs. The vehicle was not designed to accomodate what you're trying to do with it. If you want your truck to sit higher, get a bigger truck. If you like your big tires, get a truck that fits them.

 

I am aware that the stock suspension is all messed up but gm isn't the only ones with infependant front suspension woth keys. Friends have the xterra with lifts and keys and they solve the issue with longer upper control arms to even the camber out. I know there's off road lift kits for the jimmy and blazer that come with upper control arms but are they longer? I will also purchase a set of moog camber bolts to get as much as I can.

 

Being unable to adjust camber within specs is the "tip of the iceberg" when it comes to the problems that occur when front chassis ride height is out of spec. Replacing the upper control arms with longer ones will take care of the camber problem, but camber is not the only thing that is adversely affected. The geometry of the suspension and steering linkage also gets "messed up" and will affect handling, stability, control, and the longevity of some of the suspension & steering components. Each component has a range of motion that it’s designed to operate within. When front ride height is out of spec, either too high or too low, some of the components are pushed beyond their designed limit. All 4 CV joints, all 4 ball joints, both shock absorbers, both torsion bars, both outer tie rod ends, and of course, tires, are all affected. You can expect these parts to wear out prematurely simply because you're asking them to do something they weren't designed to do. If you need/want to lift the vehicle, a body lift is a wiser way to do it. You'll still run into problems, but they won't be ongoing like a suspension lift would.

 

if it wears parts more quickly, exactly which parts wear out? ive heard its hard on ball joints and stuff without a proper alignment..