Remote oil line
#1
Remote oil line
I was tired of the remote oil line leaking on my Blazer and making a mess! Dorman makes a replacement assembly and it comes with a lifetime guarantee! So, I replaced the line assembly... done... never to leak again... wrong. The lifetime guarantee is nice... but I don't want to do the job again! I don't care if the part IS free, I want it fixed.... forever!
The other day I removed the leaking Dorman line assembly, and cut the 1/2" aluminum tube right next to each crimp fitting. I went to my friendly neighborhood hydraulic hose builder, (NAPA) and bought four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose fittings, and 2' of -8 (1/2" I.D.) hydraulic hose. I had two hose assemblies made to the tune of about $60, (roughly the cost of a new Dorman line assembly). The fittings and hose are rated at 1200psi.... I figure it should be good for 60psi of oil pressure!
I also replaced the oil cooler line, (oil filter to radiator), a couple of years ago with the Dorman part, it also has a lifetime guarantee, but that line is a piece of cake to replace... 20 minutes max. Not worth the $60 it takes to modify it when it's so easy to replace.
If your lines are leaking, and you're going to replace them, as long as they're out, fix 'em once and be done!
The other day I removed the leaking Dorman line assembly, and cut the 1/2" aluminum tube right next to each crimp fitting. I went to my friendly neighborhood hydraulic hose builder, (NAPA) and bought four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic hose fittings, and 2' of -8 (1/2" I.D.) hydraulic hose. I had two hose assemblies made to the tune of about $60, (roughly the cost of a new Dorman line assembly). The fittings and hose are rated at 1200psi.... I figure it should be good for 60psi of oil pressure!
I also replaced the oil cooler line, (oil filter to radiator), a couple of years ago with the Dorman part, it also has a lifetime guarantee, but that line is a piece of cake to replace... 20 minutes max. Not worth the $60 it takes to modify it when it's so easy to replace.
If your lines are leaking, and you're going to replace them, as long as they're out, fix 'em once and be done!
#4
Hi Captain hook...
I'm a newb with these trucks, just picked one up yesterday for dirt cheap because of the oil lines leaking. I was wondering if you had part numbers or pics of the install? I would like to fix this once, so I can enjoy this truck (while towing my boat ).
Thanks in advance....
Oh yeah, Hi they call me midnightmekanik because I'm a night owl that does his best work at night! Looks like a great site to be joining!
EDIT : Just thought of something... Would bubble flaring the aluminum hose with proper fittings be sufficient for the oil lines? They work well with fuel and brake lines, I see no reason they cant work for oil lines. Unless of course you guys know a better alternative?
I'm a newb with these trucks, just picked one up yesterday for dirt cheap because of the oil lines leaking. I was wondering if you had part numbers or pics of the install? I would like to fix this once, so I can enjoy this truck (while towing my boat ).
Thanks in advance....
Oh yeah, Hi they call me midnightmekanik because I'm a night owl that does his best work at night! Looks like a great site to be joining!
EDIT : Just thought of something... Would bubble flaring the aluminum hose with proper fittings be sufficient for the oil lines? They work well with fuel and brake lines, I see no reason they cant work for oil lines. Unless of course you guys know a better alternative?
Last edited by midnightmekanik; 05-19-2009 at 06:13 AM.
#5
Welcome to the forum!
I didn't get any pix while doing it... the next time I have the shield off, I'll click a few and post them. As far as part numbers, they will vary depending on what hydraulic shop you go to. The fittings are 1/2" compression to -8 (1/2" I.D. hose). You'll need about 8" of hose for each line. Measure the overall length of line you cut out and make the new ones accordingly. Don't forget to add 1/2" on each end for the compression fitting.
I can offer a couple of tips:
1). Remove the old line assembly and mark one of the aluminum lines on each side of the original crimp connectors with a permanant marker before you cut the lines. One line comes from the oil pump, the other is from the oil cooler back to the engine, don't mix them up!
2). Working space is limited in the vehicle: Before installing the new line assembly, connect the compression fittings and new hydraulic lines to the aluminum lines that go to the engine. Don't connect the compression fittings to the aluminum lines that go to the oil filter mount until you have BOTH ends of the line assembly securely installed. Use new gaskets on the connections to the engine block and oil filter adapter.
I would be hesitant to flare the aluminum lines fearing they would not hold up well to engine/vehicle vibration.
I didn't get any pix while doing it... the next time I have the shield off, I'll click a few and post them. As far as part numbers, they will vary depending on what hydraulic shop you go to. The fittings are 1/2" compression to -8 (1/2" I.D. hose). You'll need about 8" of hose for each line. Measure the overall length of line you cut out and make the new ones accordingly. Don't forget to add 1/2" on each end for the compression fitting.
I can offer a couple of tips:
1). Remove the old line assembly and mark one of the aluminum lines on each side of the original crimp connectors with a permanant marker before you cut the lines. One line comes from the oil pump, the other is from the oil cooler back to the engine, don't mix them up!
2). Working space is limited in the vehicle: Before installing the new line assembly, connect the compression fittings and new hydraulic lines to the aluminum lines that go to the engine. Don't connect the compression fittings to the aluminum lines that go to the oil filter mount until you have BOTH ends of the line assembly securely installed. Use new gaskets on the connections to the engine block and oil filter adapter.
I would be hesitant to flare the aluminum lines fearing they would not hold up well to engine/vehicle vibration.
#7
I have a '95 blazer I just bought. Oil is leaking from the oil lines, where the lines mount to the filter adapter. Are there supposed to be "O" rings on the ends of the lines? It looks like an air conditioning mounting to the compressor. I'm not sure if the oil is leaking from the lines or the adapter itself. Is there a replacable gasket under the adapter also?
#8
The original gasket looks like an AC compressor manifold gasket, but some of the aftermarket oil lines use O rings. Felpro has a gasket set to repair the oil filter adapter. In the kit there's a couple of fiber gaskets and a large O ring. That's a common thing to leak also. You might want to clean it all off, start the engine and watch very closely, you should be able to see where the leak's coming from, usually only takes a few minutes to spot it.
#9
Thanks for your sharing. Thanks for sharing this useful information. It's great.
Financement simulation de credit immobilier de France
, Courtier simulation de credit immobilier
, Calcul pret et taux credit immobilier
Financement simulation de credit immobilier de France
, Courtier simulation de credit immobilier
, Calcul pret et taux credit immobilier
#10
End up doing my remote oil lines a couple of months ago & YAY no leaks.
This is what I ended up doing. Went to the local hydraulic shop & bought
1x meter of push-lok hose [400 psi].
8x 2 ear zp 17/20 crimps.
Removed the oils from the blazer &took pic of lines before I cut the old aluminium crimps of making sure I didn't cut the aluminium pipe.
Removed one pipe at a time, cut new pipe to length &put 4x 2 ear crimps on before connecting back to the aluminium lines. Made up a crimping tool out of a pair of vice-grips [vice-grips you can set a tension on them].
Crimped the first line on before removing the next line & then repeated process leaving one end of the hose uncrimped at the radiator end till I got the lines back into truck.
I had to find some seals for the aluminium blocks, went to local chev shop [Kiwiblazers neck of the woods] & they didn't know what they where as they sold it as a kit, had a look at what they had out the back & walked out with 4x sump plug seals [these where the same as what I took out].
Put new seals on & torque blocks up & crimped last line in place.
Home made crimping tool.
Lines 2x months later.
oil sump plug seals [old ones I took out]
This is what I ended up doing. Went to the local hydraulic shop & bought
1x meter of push-lok hose [400 psi].
8x 2 ear zp 17/20 crimps.
Removed the oils from the blazer &took pic of lines before I cut the old aluminium crimps of making sure I didn't cut the aluminium pipe.
Removed one pipe at a time, cut new pipe to length &put 4x 2 ear crimps on before connecting back to the aluminium lines. Made up a crimping tool out of a pair of vice-grips [vice-grips you can set a tension on them].
Crimped the first line on before removing the next line & then repeated process leaving one end of the hose uncrimped at the radiator end till I got the lines back into truck.
I had to find some seals for the aluminium blocks, went to local chev shop [Kiwiblazers neck of the woods] & they didn't know what they where as they sold it as a kit, had a look at what they had out the back & walked out with 4x sump plug seals [these where the same as what I took out].
Put new seals on & torque blocks up & crimped last line in place.
Home made crimping tool.
Lines 2x months later.
oil sump plug seals [old ones I took out]