after I get done with insurance in march I plan on starting to upgrade components in the GP and blazer. my question is would it be worth going with a 4 channel amp and upgrading the rear speakers in both vehicles too? or not worry about them and just get a 2 channel and front components? since the GP houses a 5.25 and I don't want to cut up the door panels in its iv decided on the Crescendo CZ SERIES 5.25. then either the same series(but 6.5) or the Incriminator 6.5 for the blazer.

 

IMHO to hell with the rears. Every time I've seen a thread asking about rears the argument is that they "want the passengers to hear the music too" and I call bullcrap. For example in my van I have only the front set of 6.5" components with the subs in the rear. I've never once got a complaint that passengers in the center or rear row of seats couldn't hear the music. I have gotten complaints to turn it down, but that's another issue entirely, lol.

The point is YOU are the driver and the owner of the vehicle so you should be worried about how it sounds to YOU. The extra speakers running in the rear only confuse, skew and ruin the soundstage and imaging. Worry about how good it sounds to you and trust me the passengers can hear it just fine. If you want them to know how good it really sounds to you then let them sit in the drivers seat. I do it all the time when I demo the van and the Jimmy because the people I'm demoing them to get the full effect from that seat. Otherwise if passengers are involved they can hear it just fine and that's all that matters.

Get the components, get a good 2 channel amp and focus all your worry on the installation of the speakers themselves. A good installation will make a bigger difference than anything else possibly could.

 

also what I thought (I just like to get other opinions and experiences and see which ones are similar to mine) now since iv decided on the CZ crescendos,,, what 2ch would be the best match up for them? better yet, what are my options for quality (we all know crescendo, IA, sundown, maybe SQ)

 

wouldn't I need a 2chn that's 200x2 at 4ohms?

 

I would recommend buying the most powerful amp you can that fits within your budget that comes from a reputable company. I wouldn't be the least bit afraid of anything from the companies you listed, PPI, Soundstream, Pioneer, MTX, etc. as long as it's a reputable company.

The reason I said the most power you can get for your budget is because headroom does WONDERS for getting great sound. I wouldn't be afraid to run double the rated power to the components. There's an article HERE on the benefits of having the most power you can afford to put on a pair of speakers. You'd be very surprised how much speakers open up when they're not being limited by distortion/clipping in an amplifier. All you have to do is be careful with the volume **** and listen/smell for stress from the speakers. Also use the crossovers in the HU or amp to limit the amount of bass those small speakers can't even play anyway from getting to them and let the sub(s) to that job.

 

The speakers are rated at 100wrms per side. While it is fine to use any amp at all to power them I would highly recommend one what is rated at 200wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms for the overhead. If you wanted to play it safe then anything in the 100wrms x 2 @ 4 ohms would be fine.

 

is there any good ones at or near $100 lol ima say not but its worth a shot to ask


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...PI-P600.2.html


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...I-BK340.2.html


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-T1000W-2.html

 

I wouldn't be the least bit afraid of running that PPI P600 or the PPI S580. Even something like a Pioneer GM-A5602 wouldn't be bad. You could even go with a JVC KS-AX3204 or even a PPI S320.4 or an MB Quart OA400.4 or a Hifonics GLX60.4 or a Hifonics ZRX600.4 or a MB Quart OA600.4 or a Pioneer GM-A6604 or any four channel of the like that fits your budget and bridge it. The only hiccup with doing that is matching the gain on each pair of channels so that both sides are at the same output level. That can be done with a simple 1khz test tone and a volt meter.

 

I believe you like the word or lol. but thanks for your suggestions

 

LOL, maybe I do.....

I think you get the idea though that even for a $100 budget there are plenty of options if you don't lock yourself into and concentrate too hard on the numbers. So what the speaker is rated 100wrms that doesn't mean you can't run 25wrms or 250wrms to it as long as the circumstances and limitations are understood about what is being done.