My statement was very generalized. If you have the need for a capacitor you would be much better off run a small battery in-line for extra storage.Batteries are useful whether the car is running or not, extra storage always helps(Givin of course that your charging system can keep up)...But a battery is much less damaging to your alternator than a capacitor would be...

 

Actually, now that i think of it, maybe that ground is not good. The ground that I have for the amps, is a bolt that is behind the passenger side rear bench seat. A bad ground could be giving me these symptoms right? Maybe I should check it out. That could be the solution to my problem. I've even tried high output alternators, and for some reason, they have all turned out to be bad. I had bought a h.o. alternator on ebay, and a few months later, it left me stranded on the road. Then, i thought the one on ebay was just bad, so i bought a h.o. alternator at advance auto parts. It would not charge very well. So i bought an original alternator at advance auto parts. And it has been fine ever since. It's just that I get those voltage drops with the sound system.

 

put your back seats down, on dirvers side, pull of the cover panel that folds down over the seats. there is a strip of metal that runs along the side that the seats bolt to. on that, there is a bolt just down from the cover panel that looks like it isnt doing anything,. 19mm bolt. pull that bolt up, sand the area down and bolt your ground to that. that is about the best ground in our trucks (2nd gens)

 

test your amps ground resistance with a DMM. You may not need to move it. If the ground is not touching bare metla, take the gound off and sand the paint. Have you upgraded your batterys ground at all? The stock ground (atleast in my 1st gen) sucks. Upgrade your batterys ground to a larger wire. Might as well take care of the rest of the big 3 while you are at it.

 

I have a 2 Farad Capacitor i hooked it up in my blazer when i first bought it and the lights did not dim at all when the bass hit. i had jl w3"s and it was fine. before the cap when my subs hit not even half way up the dash would dim

 

I just bought and had installed a brand new capacitor, and I'm still having the same results. The capacitor that I bought is supposedly a really good one. I have noticed that as the bass hits hard, and everything dims and the voltage goes down, the rpm needle goes up and down a lot. After I turn the bass down, everything goes back to normal like if nothing happened. I'm still not clear on the ground behind the seat. Is it that metal plate that is connected to the that piece that comes down over the seats?

 

no, it is the bracket on the floor that your seats are bolted to. Why would you go out and drop more money before you took our suggestions?

 

well, thats the last time I give you advice....

 

insert "I told you so" here. Why bother asking for advice if you arent going to listen?

 

I know, but the thing is that I was inclined to believe that my capacitor was a defective capacitor since I had bought it off of ebay for a cheap price. Its not that I didn't wanna listen to any of you guys. The main reason why I joined this forum was to get advice. I just wanted to see what would happen if I changed the capacitor. I have seen quite a few people that have a capacitor and are running their cars perfectly fine. That is why I tried it.

I had done the big 3, but I removed the4 gauge going from the back of the alternator to the positive. I did leave the negative 4 gauge from the negative on the battery to the chasis.