i still have money on the ground being the issue

 

x2....but thats okay, let him keep spending money...

 

not necessarily, there are many kinds of batteries that are fast to discharge like batcaps or kinetic batteries

 

Ok, so today, I looked at the ground that my sound system has. It was underneath the carpeting that is under the rear bench seat. It was held down by a philips screw, down to a painted part of metal which was all black. So I took off the ground, and took off the paint with a screwdriver, and I also sanded it down. I am still getting the same exact results. I already saw the 19 mm bolt that holds down the seats. I will try that one next, but I think I will have the same results, even if I sand that one down too. Do you guys have any other suggetions or tips?

I was thinking one thing, I have noticed that my voltage needle doesn't really go down when I have the radio around volume 30. Now, when I raise it to about volume 40, and the bass starts pumpin, the voltage goes down and everything dims. But I only get this dimming and voltage loss with the bass. Everything else seems to be fine. And I really havent had any luck with high output alternators. I bought one from an auto parts store a while ago, and it didn't work well. So what do you guys think?

 

What battery are you runnin?

 

I have an optima yellow top. It's D75-25. I was going to get the red top because it had more CCA, but I decided to get the yellow top because it fit the application better. This yellow top only has 650 CCA. Do you think that could be the problem?

 

Since its an optima no I don't think that is the problem at all. My main suggestion that I see all through this post is to go over all your wiring, cause your system is drawing way to much and I believe that somewhere there is a weak link in the system. If you can take pictures of all your wiring from the battery back to the amp and cap that you have and also all the grounds so everyone has a view at what your working with to better advise you on what it could possibly be doing.

 

ok, I'll try doing that. Thanx.

 

I looked over the wiring today. To me, everything was fine. But, I just noticed something when I got home a few minutes ago. I am having the same symptoms I was having with the supposedly "high output alternator" that I bought off of ebay. When I pressed the brake pedal, the voltage needle went down a little bit. It also went down a bit when I put on my high beams. The alternator that I have now is a stock replacement from Advance Auto Parts. It's a Palladium. I had bought a high output alternator from advance auto parts in the past, and I had the same results. I still have it, but the thing is, with that alternator, the voltage was very low. I had installed that alternator with a brand new optima yellow top. I am going to have that Powermaster high output alternator tested, to see if it is ok. Are high output alternators supposed to be like that? That alternator was a 150 amp alternator. I also had "the big 3" when I installed that alternator. I have heard they have low outputs at idle, and hight outputs at higher rpms. Should I purchase an alternator with more than 150 amps? I have also heard that more than 150 amps could damage my electrical system.

 

I can 99% guarentee you this is not an issue of faulty equipment. But rather that of faulty connections/installation. Iirc you previously stated that you had the Big 3 done, but then downgraded two of the wires. Maybe something was not properly termilaed upon reinstallation. Instead of spending more money on product I would advise you to take your vehicle to a Car Audio or 12-Volt professional and pay for an hour of diagnostics...