Besides, the OP installed a higher farad cap, and still had problems, installing a different brand of cap will do nothing.

 

Ok, let me set things straight for the people that "got it twisted". You guys told me that capacitors are junk, etc, but I also believed I had a faulty cap. I went, I replaced the cap, thinking it would do me better. Nothing. I SPENT THE MONEY. It didn't come out of anybody else's pocket but mine. Do I appreciate your advice? Am I taking it? Yes. I still listened to most of your advice. Its not like I only replaced a cap and didn't listen to what everyone else said. I did scrape the ground on the system, and I also sanded it down. The ground seems fine to me. I have gone to an auto parts store, and gotten the voltage tested, but it was only at volume 30 along with all the extras. I am going to have it tested again. The dimming and power drops only seem to happen like at about volume 40 and up. (Radio max 50). Yes, I am going to have the sound system inspected by a professional car audio place. And I will also tell the mechanic to check the engine wiring. Although I really think the engine wiring is all fine because it only happens when I crank up the system. And "the big 3" really didn't help me that much, because I was still experiencing these problems with "the big 3". Look, if you guys want to help me, and try to help me solve my problem, I would really appreciate it. But please don't make it seem like I'm wasting your time, and my time, cause I'm really not. You're right, I bought the cap, installed it, and wasted some money cause I thought it would solve my problem. The bottom line is that I am trying anything, and doing as much as possible to fix the problem. And now, I can't even focus on the problem that much, because I have a much bigger problem to fix---- the transmission shift cable. Although I will focus on it more, the trucks functioning and performance is much more important than any mods or extras.

And one last question...... I do not get any dimming at volume 30 with all the extras on. Now, as I have said, if I crank it up to about volume 40, that's where the problem starts. Do any of you guys get any dimming at all? Even at a high or max volume?

 

According to Crutchfield, your amp puts out 600W RMS @ 4-ohm and that it's only 4-ohm stable... are your subs wired up to be a 2 ohm load?


I don't have any dimming issues, even with everything maxed out, but then again, my amp is only 350W RMS.... I don't think I've seen it dim with my 800W lights on with the stereo maxed out, but I'm usually driving and above 1000rpm... Next time I'm out and about, I'll double check for ya...

And according to my volt meter in the dash, I go from just past the 14 line to dead center of the 14 line with the lights or stereo on max... The lowest was a 13.5-ish when I dipped to 500 or so RPM backing up my driveway... I'm still running the stock alternator and factory battery... Which has dead-shorted once, when I was in a river...

 

You see, you just gave me something else to look into, and I thank you for that. This is the reason why I'm here, to get advice. And now that you mention that Ohm stuff, I'm thinking about it. I have no idea about anything, but I think that the Dual Subwoofer box that I bought at Best Buy, was either 1100 watts, or 1200 watts. Also, it has neons that are connected to the amp. The neons are connected to the 12V power source, because connecting it to where the speakers are can damage the neons. I do know, that the subs had to be "bridged", because the sub box only has one set of wires. Both subs are connected to only one set of wires. They do not have 2 separate sets of wires. And now that you mention the ohm thing, I'm going to have to look more into that, because maybe there is something wrong right there. I am going to have to get it checked out, because I have no clue how any of that stuff works. Thanks a lot.

Dual Subs

 

Yep, your subs are at a 2ohm load, but he still has some issues. OP, I do advise you to take your truck to a professional who can diagnose your symptoms. Do not buy anything else, even after talking to the professional, until you post here. (by professional, i do not mean someone at BB or CC, no offense to them, but no) Where are you located???

To all others, foul language will not be tolerated.

 

I am located in Northern New Jersey. North Bergen is the town. And btw, what does "OP", "BB", and "CC" stand for? And since you say my system is at 2 ohms, what has to be done to set it to 4 ohms?

 

ok, op is original poster (you)
BB and CC are best buy and circuit city.

how do you have your subs wire to the amps. are they on a positive and negative beside eachother, or positive from one side and neg from the other side??

Do you have an actual car audio shop within 30 miles of your home?

 

Oh, ok. Sorry bout that. lol Well, now that you say that, my subs and the first cap that I had were installed at best buy. The subs are connected positive from one side, and negative from one side. I have two car audio shops within my range. I don't think I'm going to go back to the one I have been going to, because that is the guy that sold me the capacitor that I currently have. I am going to go to the audio shop that is right up my block. It's pretty expensive, but I think it's worth it. The guy said he'll charge me $29 just to look at it, and find the problem.

 

I have subs almost exactly the same as yours. it looks a little different but they got the blue leds on around the inside. I don't know if its set up the same as yours but on the terminal cup, mine says 4 Ohm...

 

Well, I posted a link of my subs in a previous post. I believe it also says something about being 4 ohms, but I don't understand any of this stuff. lol