box design
#1
12-25-2008, 09:30 AM
box design
Hey all, long time no post huh? well anywho I have access to a woodshop so i figure nows as good of time as any to build my box......just wondering if anyone has used or had luck with RE's enclosure calculator?
im just not sure if i should completley trust the cuts they provide after you punch everything in......obviously if it asks you for wood thickness they're gonna account for that........?
this is for my 2 12" type r's by the way.....looking for around 5cu. ft. at 28-35hz
im just not sure if i should completley trust the cuts they provide after you punch everything in......obviously if it asks you for wood thickness they're gonna account for that........?
this is for my 2 12" type r's by the way.....looking for around 5cu. ft. at 28-35hz
#2
12-25-2008, 04:28 PM
RE: box design
Well, for one thing, unless you're planning on running 800w RMS to each sub, your box will be entirely too large. It'll cause the speakers to blow when there's too much empty space and nothing pushing them back when they flex. You do know recommend ported volume is only 1.7cu. ft per sub, right?
Other than that, be sure to factor in subwoofer displacement (0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount per sub)). I've heard a lot of good things about RE's calculator through the shops I work with from time to time, but nothing beats getting on the phone or emailing a company and asking if they have a diagram of what they have found to be the "optimal" enclosure design for the product they design and you will be representing. Outside of that, basic calculus should do the trick.
Other than that, be sure to factor in subwoofer displacement (0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount per sub)). I've heard a lot of good things about RE's calculator through the shops I work with from time to time, but nothing beats getting on the phone or emailing a company and asking if they have a diagram of what they have found to be the "optimal" enclosure design for the product they design and you will be representing. Outside of that, basic calculus should do the trick.
#3
12-25-2008, 05:24 PM
RE: box design
actually i used that site. its pretty accurate. i have an FI 18 Q. my box is 32 cubic feet. its basiclly the enitre back of my blazer. i have a 99 blazer btw. i still need to get a decible testing but ive been pulled over 2 times and its loud. im assuming its about 140 or so but click on the link to see a few pictures.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=37128934
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...ageID=37128934
#5
12-26-2008, 02:31 PM
RE: box design
yeah im not sure at all its only like 2o bucks to get 3 tries to test but its pretty loud... it hurts my ears and tickles my nose everytime i listen to it... but yeah ill have to get back to you on what it is once i get it done.
oh my box is tunes to 32 htz not cubic feet lol thats my bad lol i think its like 8-9 though my friend used RE website to get the design so yeahh it works use it! really recomend it.
oh my box is tunes to 32 htz not cubic feet lol thats my bad lol i think its like 8-9 though my friend used RE website to get the design so yeahh it works use it! really recomend it.
#6
12-26-2008, 04:14 PM
RE: box design
if you need a box made i got you give me dimentions and i will make you a box outta a program i have
#7
12-27-2008, 09:30 AM
RE: box design
ORIGINAL: TehFattie
Well, for one thing, unless you're planning on running 800w RMS to each sub, your box will be entirely too large. It'll cause the speakers to blow when there's too much empty space and nothing pushing them back when they flex. You do know recommend ported volume is only 1.7cu. ft per sub, right?
Other than that, be sure to factor in subwoofer displacement (0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount per sub)). I've heard a lot of good things about RE's calculator through the shops I work with from time to time, but nothing beats getting on the phone or emailing a company and asking if they have a diagram of what they have found to be the "optimal" enclosure design for the product they design and you will be representing. Outside of that, basic calculus should do the trick.
Well, for one thing, unless you're planning on running 800w RMS to each sub, your box will be entirely too large. It'll cause the speakers to blow when there's too much empty space and nothing pushing them back when they flex. You do know recommend ported volume is only 1.7cu. ft per sub, right?
Other than that, be sure to factor in subwoofer displacement (0.071 cu. ft (Front Mount per sub)). I've heard a lot of good things about RE's calculator through the shops I work with from time to time, but nothing beats getting on the phone or emailing a company and asking if they have a diagram of what they have found to be the "optimal" enclosure design for the product they design and you will be representing. Outside of that, basic calculus should do the trick.
#9
12-28-2008, 10:55 AM
RE: box design
ok well i guesstimated on the program and put in something like 38" wide x 18" high and 18" deep with either a 2.5" or 3" slot i think gave me around 5 cubes before displacement.......again, i was just messin around....im not even sure if 38" is too wide or not.....also Tehfattie......"optimal" box's also must be vehicle specific, no? also how the heck would they know what i want it tuned to? sorry, but i dont let other people tell me what sounds good......which also makes it ear specific
