Ok I've never worked with car audio before so please give me the 411 on everything I need to Know. I want to replace the stock headunit, to save money im just gonna stick with the stock speakers, 3 or 4 of them work OK and i can put up with them. I want a headunit that is OK, i dont need anything awsome. I plan on putting in 2 12' subs.

So can anyone tell me:
1) Can I take out/replace the headunit myself?
2) Is there a certain size/type of headunit for Blazers?
3) Do i need any kind a converters to run a new headunit or subs or an amp?
4) See anyplace where I can get some decent subs for cheap?

I want to try to do thi s for the lowest price possible but I dont want crap either.

Thanks for any help.
-Luke

 

1) You can definitely take out and replace the headunit yourself, and save LOTS of $$. What year is your Blazer? Some of the dashes are harder to take apart than others.

2) The size is called DIN, basically all aftermarket head units you see in stores are this size. You will need a mount kit, which are cheap, this will adapt the factory dash opening to fit an aftermarket headunit. To make it as easy as possible, you can buy a wiring adapter that will plug your headunit wiring into the factory plugs, all you have to do is match up the wires between the adapter and the headunit, and theyre all labeled.

3) As long as you buy a headunit with pre-amp outputs, you can run subs without any converters.

4) The best place to buy subs is online, the prices are a lot lower. I think sounddomain.com has a deal going on right now, two kenwood subs and an amp for $250.

You can buy a sub-box, or you can build one yourself using 3/4"MDF, some screws, and the hole template that comes with the sub. For the basics on building a sub box, try searching google, there are lots of sites out there. It's about $50 to build a box, instead of about $90 to buy a basic one from best buy or circuit city, you can also make it fit the car better this way.

 

O sorry I forgot to say, I have a 98.

Also I've been debating this also:
Try to get a LOC so I can run a sub and amp from the stock headunit. I know the sound wont be great but others have said that it's OK. Then Later this summer I'll probably get a new headunit.

So where can I get a good quality LOC?

 

I just got a Phoenix Gold SLD44 (four channel) line out converter for just under $100 new in box on eBay. They have two-channel and six-channel versions also, but only bumps preamp voltage to 8 instead of 11. Heres a link to PG's website... Phoenix Gold Line Drivers -Click

Audiocontrol makes some really nice ones also, but they are more expensive.

The 98 and up dash is much easier to work on than the 95-97 so youll have less headaches there.

 

ok thanks but i was thinking at work today and said to myself I might as well go to wally world and just buy a semi cheap headunit as it'll still be better then the stock one.

Also i think ill look at some used subs and amps as Im a little short on cash. Im looking in something that'll just rattle the F^&% outta my windows. The kind that'll turn heads as play Ridin' Dirty while i drive through gettysburg. (where i live)

I really dont care if the vocals are distored cause I still got 4 stock speakers that'll do the job. Im not picky.

Thansk for the help so far red.

 

On the budget, a basic Pioneer is pretty good, some even have MP3 capability for cheap. For the used subs and amp, If you know the owner, and they weren't abused, then you should be okay. Unfortunately a lot of people turn the gain to max, which is pretty hard on the amp. When selecting an amp and sub(s) try to match the RMS output of the amp to the RMS power rating of the sub(s).

lol, my blazer's original owner was in gettysburg, showed up on Carfax. There seem to be a lot of Blazers in PA, all the snow I guess, not so much down here in NC.

 

Is there any hole through the firewall to get my wiring through? I checked today and couldnt find any.

 

Most of the time you will end up drilling a hole..its much easier. I had to drill a hole so my 1/0 ga. wire could go through.. if you to drill though be sure to put a rubber grommet around the hole so the metal will not cut through ur wire

 

I poked a screwdriver through the rubber boot that the fat bundle of wire passes through just above the drivers side wheel well then stuffed the wire through, only 8 gage so your mileage may vary. It was tough getting to it but I didn't have to worry about drilling through something I ought not drill through that way.

I'm not sure I understand your motivation, I'd rather replace the factory speakers and add a 4 channel amp to have highs and mids that sound clear and clean and bass that sounds pretty good inside the car than have booming bass that you can hear across town but no mids or highs to fill in the music. I don't think the factory speakers will be able to keep up with a 10000 watt sub woofer system, or a 250 watt system for that matter.

 

ok well, then where would i run the wire once i got into the engine bay cause the battery will be on the oppistite corner. Is there any safe route?


UPDATE*
Just went out and looked again, i think i found a way through. On the passenger side under the carpet up on the firewall, i found a round plastic tab with a screw through it, i pressed on it and it flexes, so is this a hole through the firewall or not. This is a 98 btw.