So I'm thinking about getting two 10" rockford fosgate r1s410 max power 300 watts and rms is about 150 watts. Nothin too crazy. But I was just wondering what size (wattage, also how many channels) amp would I need to best power the subs.

Thanks for any information.

 

something cheap would work since its just 300 rms. (dont go by max watts)

Hit up walmart,get a pioneer amp for less then 100 bucks and be done.

 

So a 300 watt amp for rms 150x2. What about the channels? Mono or 2 channel?

 

Depends on what you mean when you say "watt"

if the box says "1500 watts max" that doesnt mean its 750 rms x2. Just make sure to read the rms output.

2 channel amp will be fine. Make sure to get a good quality wiring kit. Dont run anything but audio wire,minimum 8 gauge. nothing smaller. 16 gauge wire is find for the subs. Look up "sub wiring diagrams" and wire them correctly(depending on what ohm the subs are)

 

Take a look at this site to learn more about the woofer you chose.
in the bottom there are tabs with wiring and enclosure wizards.
very usefull.
PRIME Subwoofers - R1S410 - Rockford Fosgate®

I would opt for a 300W 2channel amp with bridge mode. Find the specs of the amp and look if it can handle 2ohms. if so, wire it up like the second pic. to the bridge connection of the amp. in this way it will work as one mono amp that fires both woofers at the same time, resulting in a solid bass.
When you connect one woofer to left and one woofer to right, you have a big chance that the signals are not equal and the woofers will not move at the same time (partially out of phase) what may cause the sound to be distorted. low frequencies like the ones from your woofers do not need the channel separation for stereo sound as they are not direction specific. (with low frequencies it's hard to point out where they are comin from).
So for the best results and efficiency i allways connect the woofers to one channel (or a bridged dual channel).

 

I think it would be worthwhile to correct some of the misinformation you have posted here. First of all on your amp recommendation, very few 2 channel amps and I doubt any in his price range are going to be 2 ohm stable bridged. Being able to handle 2 ohms is for stereo mode only on most multi channel amps. Sure there's several out there that are 1 ohm stable stereo and 2 ohm stable bridged, but they're not generally within the OP's stated budget. As for the mono vs. stereo bass statement, that's simply not true. While it is possible that if the subs were sharing the same air space in an enclosure that differences in the L+R signals could cause an issue, the OP didn't state what his intentions were for the enclosure. Also, when the drivers are in separate air spaces the bass can be more pronounced and/or sound better in stereo due to being a stereo recording, instrument placement, and quality of the recording itself can lend to the realism of the playback since staging and imaging are lost when played back through a mono signal. While low frequencies truly are more difficult place, or less directional and harder to localize, almost everyone has their sub's crossed over at around 80 or 100hz. At those frequencies the sub's are picking up some of the midbass duty and those frequencies are becoming directional and easier to localize. All things equal it's no more or less efficient having them on a mono or stereo amplifier. It's much more important that they're in a properly designed and built, seams well sealed up, and tuned (if ported) enclosure than what the amplifier is that's powering them.

 

And so we learn every day.
Missed out on the 2ohms/1ohms bridged

 

Personally I would run a mono amp, but a bridged 2ch will serve the same purpose. I would shoot for 4-500w rms at the ohm load you can run with your speakers.

 

I've known 2 channels to get hot in the past. mono would be best on subs

 

Keep in mind though that getting hot isn't necessarily an issue unless the amp keeps going into thermal protection.

The vast majority of 2 channel amps are class AB and the vast majority of mono sub amps are class D. Class AB designs are far less efficient than class D, to the tune of only 50 to 60% at best compared to the 70%+ of class D. At 50% efficiency it would require a class AB amp to pull 1.5 watts of power from your electrical system to produce 1 watt of output, in simple terms. That extra power that is required to produce the required output is simply lost as heat, plain and simple. They will always run hotter.

Back in the day I had a US Amps A50HC high current competition amplifier that was a class AB amp and stable down to .25 ohms in stereo, .5 ohm bridged. Yes you read that right a quarter of an ohm stereo and a half an ohm bridged. At one point that amp was hooked up to four dual 4 ohm Rockford 15's for a final ohm load of .5 ohm on the amp and that thing got so hot that it melted the carpet where the heat sink touched it for mounting. The amp was stupid powerful for what it was and the time period it was manufactured but designed to run like that.

Granted today's class AB's would never be designed to get that hot but the point is that Class AB will always run hotter than Class D because it's less efficient and that is not a problem under normal operating circumstances.





Just had to use those!