Hey Guys, just wanted to do my part after receiving tons of helpful information. The Amp Install is still in the process, but all I have left is high input wiring to the rear speakers and I should (in theory) be ready to plug and play.
Keep in mind I am running a 300w amp off of the stock head unit and this is by no means professional, just a college kid who bought this blazer and is learning the ropes himself. Anybody: feel free to comment, make suggestions, reprimand me for stupidity, etc. I am also doing this write up before classes start at 8:30 AM... great prepared teacher I am .

Color Code:
Red - Power Cable
Black - Ground Cable
Green - Bezel Removal
Blue - Remote Turn-On


First off, I went under the hood and took the negative terminal off, so as to work without fear of running down the battery or shorting something out.

I went to the passenger side and tugged the carpet back in the front right corner (didn't even need to pull panels up; it literally will slide out and back in when you need it to).
This exposed the grommet for the antenna cable through the firewall. I don't know about you guys, but I didn't have any specialized grommet tools to assist with the installation of the power cable and this was by far the most annoying, time consuming aspect of the whole process. The grommet itself is about a foot up from the floor and around 6 inches from the side of the vehicle.
After feeding the cable through from the inside, I went underneath the vehicle and fished around through the splashguards in the wheel well until i could tug some more of the cable through the firewall. Eventually you will add your fuse (if it was separate like mine) and then the final 5 or so inch lead to the positive battery terminal. Inside, I ran this power wire over to the side step moldings and just tucked them under the lip along the door.

Next I went ahead and put my ground cable in. I put the rear seats down and flipped one of the shields that fold down with the seat back, exposing several nuts which bolt the seats in place. Taking one of these off, attaching the ground cable and reinstalling the nut took a few minutes; easy enough.

After this, I had to get to the radio. I don't know about you guys, but the removal of this dash bezel is ridiculous compared to most other cars I've dealt with because of how many connections it has. With the terminals off the battery I wasn't worried about turning the key and getting down into first gear with the automatic transmission, so as to get the shifter out of the way. Next, lower your steering wheel. With the 7mm socket, get the four bolts under the drop panel... tug it down to expose two of the three 7mm bolts holding the bezel in place. remove the two and the final one above the gauges and then you can "remove" the bezel. there are several clips, so be easy. I start with the top left and right and work towards the center. There is only one clip to the top left and several around the radio on the right. top right, bottom right, bottom left of radio, bottom left of climate ***** and (I think) one more around the 4x4 selector.
The easiest way to remove the harnesses to the wiper and hatch is to pop the unit itself out of the bezel and then remove the harness. same for the 4 wheel select, pop it out towards you then disconnect the harness. There should be enough play on the left side of the bezel to remove the harnesses from the light switches with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Bezel removed.

On to the radio itself. I didn't have the money for an aftermarket H/U so I pulled the stock one as far as I could out, and cut far enough back on the dark green accessory wire so I could reconnect it and add a third lead with a twist on connector for the remote turn on. I ran that remote on wire down the back through a hole above the glove box when it is open for now, I will clean it up when I have everything set in stone.

I decided I wanted to run my remote turn on wire under the center console, so I popped out the tray around the cassette player (has four clips; two top, two down front) and removed the two 10mm nuts there. Then I popped the large storage compartment out of the armrest (be persistent, the tabs should not break, they're pretty sturdy little triangular bits). Removed two more 10mm nuts. Center console can now be lifted enough to run wire.

Personally, I think I'm putting my switch for the turn on wire beyond the cup holders and before the cassette deck tray, so I left enough wire and play to do so with ease, until then, I will just connect and disconnect with a screw-on connector. Once all of this was set, I reattached the harnesses and bezel and screwed it all back together.


All I have left is to wire in my "high input leads" (which I'm doing off of the rear speakers) for the amp and rig up some speakers or subs in the back, to be done after school and coaching or maybe during lunch (who knows).

I will try to post pics and I hope this was done correctly. Believe me, I'll edit and update this as often as I can until it's functional.