I am going to buy 2 12'' pioneer premiers here shortly. Which amp would be the best? I can't figure out how to pick the right one that won't blow or under power them. They will be in a ported box, not sure on how many cubic feet yet. Not the biggest audio guy when it comes to this stuff, but I can hook everything up, that's just common sense to me Thanks


# 12" Dual 2 ohm Champion PRO Series Subwoofer

# Power Handling:

* Peak: 3500 watts
* RMS: 1000 watts

 

Alright... :cracks knuckles: lol

1000 RMS each sub, dual 2 coils. So you want to wire the coils in series, and the subs in paralel so the amp sees a 2 ohm load. Cause the only way you could wire any better is to wire down to a 0.5 ohm load at the amp. And good luck finding a good quality amp that is 0.5 ohm stable.

So what you want to find is a monoblock Class D amp that does between 1800-2000 RMS watts, not peak watts. And does that power at 2ohm load. But that's for optimum performance. You could do less power and still sound great.

Remember it's not power that kills subs, it's distortion and dirty signal. Have fun looking at amps like big eyed panting puppies in the pet store window and ask away if you need anything else.

 

So something like this amp would work? I know this one is a 2 channel, but it's 2000w x 2 at 2 ohm. Don't know if that is rms or not though.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2010-New-Legacy-...item5ad82fe0bf

This one is 1700w rms at 2 ohm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/POWER-ACOUSTIK-B...item5ada4106c8

I'm guessing I would bridge them and that would cut the power in half? I need to do some research so I can understand this stuff lol

 

Power Acoustiks do put out true power(at least they used to, not an overrated MAX output rating), but SQ in them is not the best, same with legacys.
however most amps are rated at 14.4vdc.. MTX and a few "underground" amp mfr's actually rate their amps both at 14.4 and 12.6/8 vdc. for purpose of no engine on competition and the daily use in a very loaded stock alt./battery setup in your typical vehicle

when you bridge subs together you increase the power they can take.... RMS power handling on woofers varies in every situation though, such as enclosure design and all the way down to air temp.

what imscrewed said is absolutely correct, find an amp that will do 1800w-2000w at 2ohms and youll be good. set your gains right as well and youll have a good long time with bass

 

The thing about two channel amps is that they are less efficiant. Class D amps are normally very efficiant, where as Class A/B amps like two channel amps are less efficiant.

Factors like heat dissapation and other things will lower what the amp actually does. The better the efficancy the more power you will draw. Even if you have to save your cash for a while, you will be glad you did. I've ran bridged 2 channel amps on subs, and now I've got a class D amp and I'll never go back.

If the amp seems too good to be true, alot of times it is. If you could get a true 4000 watt amp for $115, then Sundowns 3500 amp wouldn't sell for $1500. I'm not trying to get you to buy my amp, but just something to look for. My amp is a 2000 watt class D. It has been testes to put out around 1400 on 12 volts and 1800 on 14 volts. It's fused for 180 amps but it's overbuilt and will never reach that. I gave $302 for it, refurbished with a two year warrenty from overstock.com. I looked for monthes to get the best price.

But if you just need something for now, then get what you want. But 9-10 you will be wanting a bigger amp about a month later. I've been there and done that. I bought a "1200" watt Sony xplod amp from walmart. Only reason I bought it was because my other amp gave out on me and I didn't want to wait on shipping on one offfline. That amp was $200 and only put out 500 watts. I learned my lesson on what the package says and what the real watts are.

 

Screwed knows his stuff as does taba. Go for a monoblock because of the efficiency. I've run all types myself. Personal experience has shown me that 2 channels bridged puts more strain on you electrical than mono. My 500/1 pulled less than my 300/2 did and sounded better. Not because of more power but because of it being much more efficient. My 2 cents.

Screwed, you're starting to sound like me and suggest the good stuff haha

 

Thanks MTop. I just give all the facts I can and let them make the decision on their own about what make and model amp. Normally I always kinda encourage people to go with a strong well known company. And only suggest amps like I run if they can't afford something like that. Sundown, JL, Kicker's ZX line, that's the kinda amps that you can't go wrong with. But if you don't or can't save up and your willing to give up some SQ and features and accept people making fun of you cause your not running a major name, I can reccomend some good solid cheaper products, like audiopipes AP3000.1, Lanzars optidrive line, or even older American Bass amps.

I admit, most of the lesser know companies 90% of thier products SUCK! Including Lanzar, espically thier overrated amps. But every now and agian some of these companies made a decent product, not perfect, but pretty good. And I'll recommend what that 10% of the lesser known amps is if the person doesn't want or don't want to invest major $$$ in thier car audio. I only refer specific amps if the OP isn't wanting to spend $1500 for a rockford T2000.1 amp. But if they can afford it or want it, screw lanzar, get the sundown or Rockford by all means. But i won't refer cheaper amps unless asked to cause I don't want to look like a fanboy or be the "weirdo"...not like I'm not already that but you get my point.

 

I hear you. i'm just messing around. I too do the same thing. to derek, blazerguy2001, i gave him a list from $200-$800 for his "ideal setup". but like i said before, i've run everything in a matter of 4 years in 3 different cars along with cars i've installed in. Power Acoustik, Lanzer, JL Audio, Kicker, Alpine, Eclipse, Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, Crunch, U.S. Amps, Autotek(same as Crunch basically), Hifonics.... the list goes on. they're all decent to good amps, i just suggest things i have long term trials with and the bigger companies have never let me down so that is why i share the knowledge of those.

back to the original question. in my head, if you're going to be spending $350-$400 on the subs, you should spend about the same on a quality amp. so, $400 will buy you some really good amps, but for 2000 wrms at 2 ohms, that'll cost you more. the best amp that i can find you new, that will put out that amount of power or more is the kicker 1500.1 or 2500.1 which are $550 & $750 respectively.


So, if you under power them it won't cause damage if you set the gain properly. I personally have never run the "correct" amount of power to my subs and yet they still got really loud, really clear, and i loved it. So, personal preference, if you want the power, you gotta pay the big dollar.

 

 

lets not forget about impedance rise, if you hook up a 2000 watt rms amp, your not going to get 2000rms.....and for the most part a/b amps and the like have less THD, which isnt a big deal when running subs, just saying.

I'd buy a refurbished unit off Dbr