Hello all,

Fedex and UPS came to my house today to drop of some packages. My SXX and Kenwood 1800W amp came today. I have some questions about installation. I have a 3.0 Cube box tuned to 35HZ. My MDF is 3/4 inch thick. To screw the sub down to the box, should I use special screws or do it any differently that say a regular smaller sub?? I believe it has 8 holes for screws to mount it to box. Also, should I mount the box with the sub facing up or towards the hatch of my blazer?? I had a system before with the sub facing up and the port firing to the hatch. But, now the port is facing the same way as the sub, just wanted to know what is best, facing up or to the hatch? I am installing it all first thing tomorrow morning. My amp does 900w rms at 2 ohms and the sub will be wired to 2 ohms. Its a 1000w rms sub and 2000w max. The amp is 1800w max. I plan on doing the install, then maybe the Big 3 next if needed. Is it always a good idea to do the Big 3 when dealing with a system with 900w rms?? I would use 1/0 AWG wiring, which I have about 15 feet. Just need the ring terminals and battery clamps. I am using an Optima Red Top and stock 105A alternator. Plan on upgrading my alternator to a DC Power 185A alternator when the time comes. Now, if I use 1/0 AWG for the Big 3 upgrade, can I still use 4 AWG for my Amp's power and ground (recommended AWG for this amp is 4 AWG.) I do not think the terminals will fit a bigger wire than 4 AWG. I will have a 100A fuse under the hood for the amp. I am not running any other accessories in my blazer. No 4 channel at all. Any help or ideas would help me out alot. Thanks.

 

i use drywall screws they hold in wood better. i think the port toward the hatch is louder but you can try both ways and see which you like better. max value dont really mean much in power it will mostly only do the rms rating. a big 3 is not really needed for something like this. 4 awg should be enough for this system with a stock alt. if it goes out get the dc i love mine. a big 3 is usually used for systems with 2 or more batteries.

 

But, If I wanted to, the big 3 upgrade would not hurt at all, just help upgrade those smaller factory wiring and beef it up with bigger wires. Thanks.

 

you don't really have to do anything to the factory wire. but it wouldn't hurt to do it. all you have to do is ground the battery and run a power to the alt. you could do it to the stock alt. if you do do it use 1/0

 

OK, Update--Just got done with the installation of the Amp and Sub. I have the sub facing the hatch and the port to the hatch. Amp mounted on the back of the box. I have my SXX running off a 900w rms Kenwood amp at 2 ohms. Now, for my questions. I have the stock 105A alternator and no Big 3 upgrade yet. I plan on buying a DC Power 185A H/0 OEM Alternator. I will do the Big 3 Upgrade when the new Alternator goes in. Is there anything else I need to upgrade? As far as electrical goes. I have an Optima Redtop, 4 years old. I am sure a 185A alternator and big 3 upgrade should solve some of my dimming problems. Any idea how long my stock alternator can go with this kind of system setup?? I mean I do not go past say half volume. Regularly I am at 15 on volume out of 50 on my Pioneer HU. I do not have any other accessories on my Blazer hooked up to battery. Just the Amp. I will def use 1/0 AWG for the Big 3 Upgrade.

 

your stock alt should last you awhile, theres not that much power on it.

 

if I found the correct amp, yours can only draw 90 amps (if it is not defective) so it won't noticeably affect your stock alt, at least not for quite a while. The big 3 allows the current to flow easier through to the amp (electricity takes the path of least resistance), your dimming will be greatly reduced and you may pick up some volume without adjusting the amp or head unit. I have a system that puts out between 1200-1300 watts, I have minimal dimming with a stock alt and a duralast battery. I'd do the big 3 before buying a new alt because only so many amps can get through to your electronics, you could be fine with just the big 3.

 

Let me know if I am correct at what you are saying...If I upgrade my Alternator to a 185A alternator. The amp might not work? Correct? I thought alternators only gave power to electronics that need the amperes. And only send what the amp needs as far as what it draws, say 90A for my amp.

 

your amo would still work if you bought a 250a it wont hurt anything.

 

Ok, got it!! I will keep the stock alt hooked up and run that for a little bit until I save a bit of money for a new H/O alt. I just finished doing the Big 3 upgrade on my blazer. No more dimming issues, or least they have been reduced alot. That nut on the back of the alt was hard to get off, all my hoses were in the way to get a socket down there. But, I got it off. Purrs nice now. No audio shops had battery terminal clamps. So, I went to advance auto parts and got some there. They are top mounts onto the stud. Good thing my hood clears them. I did the same mounting locations for the big 3 as the thread starter for that Big 3 upgrade know how article. All is good, next upgrade will be the alt. My friend can install it for me for dirt cheap. Maybe I could do it myself, sound like an easy job, just 3 bolts, a connector or two and the belt.