Rear speakers, Wiring, Amp
#1
12-12-2012, 03:22 PM
Rear speakers, Wiring, Amp
So a few questions...
I want to get rear door speakers for my truck because everyone who sits back there complains the bass overpowers the music. I sat back there and its true it does. The bass in the back seats may also be a little heavier than in the front but not too much. So im thinking of just getting some simple Alpine 6x9's for back there. So my question is what do i wire them to? When i had Car Toys install my system i told them to hook up the rear speakers just in case i wanted to install new ones later. There are two sets of speaker wires running from my amp that powers my front components but i have read about multiple ways to wire the components so i have no idea what they did. So im not sure if those two sets go to the components or if one set goes to the rear speakers or if they possibly hooked my rear speakers to my deck. I know how stupid the people at car toys can be so im not leaving any possibility out lol.
Also, Im getting a new amp for my sub and im contemplating getting a 5 channel to run everything or just getting a new amp to only power my 400 watt sub. The amp i have in there now is great, if anything its too powerful but my cousin is letting me use it until i get a new one. so now i want to get a new one and im not sure what to get. The amp has to power Oh and about $200 budget for the amp
Thanks in advance!
I want to get rear door speakers for my truck because everyone who sits back there complains the bass overpowers the music. I sat back there and its true it does. The bass in the back seats may also be a little heavier than in the front but not too much. So im thinking of just getting some simple Alpine 6x9's for back there. So my question is what do i wire them to? When i had Car Toys install my system i told them to hook up the rear speakers just in case i wanted to install new ones later. There are two sets of speaker wires running from my amp that powers my front components but i have read about multiple ways to wire the components so i have no idea what they did. So im not sure if those two sets go to the components or if one set goes to the rear speakers or if they possibly hooked my rear speakers to my deck. I know how stupid the people at car toys can be so im not leaving any possibility out lol.
Also, Im getting a new amp for my sub and im contemplating getting a 5 channel to run everything or just getting a new amp to only power my 400 watt sub. The amp i have in there now is great, if anything its too powerful but my cousin is letting me use it until i get a new one. so now i want to get a new one and im not sure what to get. The amp has to power Oh and about $200 budget for the amp
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by 97cherryblazer; 12-12-2012 at 05:27 PM.
#2
12-12-2012, 07:21 PM
The best way to find out what they did is to take a 9v battery and see what they wires are connected to. Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp and touch them, one channel at a time, to the battery terminals. You should hear a simple little pop from your front speakers on the front speaker wires. If they went ahead and wired the rear ones you should hear the same from them when you touch the wires for them to the battery.
If it does that, you're all good, if not then you'll need to troubleshoot from there.
As for the amp, this Audiopipe APSM55100 would be a nice place to start for under $200. The seller mis-typed the power ratings, the amp is actually 4x75 + 1x350 @ 4 ohms. It's a quite powerful little amp.
It's going to be pretty much impossible to find a 5 channel that will give you more power than that for your sub since it's a 4ohm SVC. If it was DVC then it could be wired in parallel for a final 2ohm load and that would open up many more amps in your $200 budget that could deliver rated power and more.
I've had some experience with Audiopipe amps and so far they're pretty decent, especially for the money paid.
If it does that, you're all good, if not then you'll need to troubleshoot from there.
As for the amp, this Audiopipe APSM55100 would be a nice place to start for under $200. The seller mis-typed the power ratings, the amp is actually 4x75 + 1x350 @ 4 ohms. It's a quite powerful little amp.
It's going to be pretty much impossible to find a 5 channel that will give you more power than that for your sub since it's a 4ohm SVC. If it was DVC then it could be wired in parallel for a final 2ohm load and that would open up many more amps in your $200 budget that could deliver rated power and more.
I've had some experience with Audiopipe amps and so far they're pretty decent, especially for the money paid.
#3
12-12-2012, 08:01 PM
Ok ill try that test, but the rear speakers are totally blown. But if the other two wires dont do anything i will just assume that they go to the rear. So there are a total of 4 speaker wires leaving that amp.
And as for the amp i think i will just stick with getting the amp for my sub. In that case what would you recommend for that sub?
And as for the amp i think i will just stick with getting the amp for my sub. In that case what would you recommend for that sub?
#4
12-12-2012, 08:27 PM
not sure what kind of power you are trying to run, but I have this amp and running it at 2ohms, and I absolutely love it
It is making advertised power, or just below, and is very nice, runs very cool, and does not suck up a lot of power
It is making advertised power, or just below, and is very nice, runs very cool, and does not suck up a lot of power
#5
12-12-2012, 09:29 PM
If I were you I would forget about the rear speakers and get a 4 channel amp for the time being. You can connect the front speakers to the front channels and bridge the rear on the sub. Then you can get new rear speakers and run them on the HU for your rear passengers for now. Then when your budget allows you can put the 4 channel on all your highs and buy a nice amp for your sub. That amp can be sized to give the sub you have now at least rated power, and when you upgrade subs it can be ran at 2 or 1 ohm for more power output for bigger subs.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
Last edited by altoncustomtech; 12-12-2012 at 09:31 PM.
#6
12-13-2012, 12:19 AM
If I were you I would forget about the rear speakers and get a 4 channel amp for the time being. You can connect the front speakers to the front channels and bridge the rear on the sub. Then you can get new rear speakers and run them on the HU for your rear passengers for now. Then when your budget allows you can put the 4 channel on all your highs and buy a nice amp for your sub. That amp can be sized to give the sub you have now at least rated power, and when you upgrade subs it can be ran at 2 or 1 ohm for more power output for bigger subs.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
#7
12-13-2012, 02:07 AM
If I were you I would forget about the rear speakers and get a 4 channel amp for the time being. You can connect the front speakers to the front channels and bridge the rear on the sub. Then you can get new rear speakers and run them on the HU for your rear passengers for now. Then when your budget allows you can put the 4 channel on all your highs and buy a nice amp for your sub. That amp can be sized to give the sub you have now at least rated power, and when you upgrade subs it can be ran at 2 or 1 ohm for more power output for bigger subs.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
Seems like the most efficient way to do it to me.
My plan is to do this at the same time i remove my interior so that i can actually run the wiring correctly and get rid of the mess car toys made.
#8
12-13-2012, 09:46 AM
On a quick search I found these that I would trust to produce clean power and fit within your budget. Now keep in mind, any 4 channel amp that's going to be powerful enough to run your sub at full power in bridged mode will probably be making considerably more power than your front speakers are readily able to handle. That's not a bad thing though as having headroom like that can make for some of the cleanest and loudest output. Where it matters is how happy you get with the volume **** and being sure you set the gains conservatively. That will take actively listening and monitoring the speakers to listen for stress and smell for burning coils on your part. Do you know how to properly set the gains? Are you utilizing the crossovers on either the HU or the amp? What amp are you running now? What speakers are in your doors? If you're lost with any of the questions I just asked don't worry, I'll be glad to help you with everything to be sure you get the most out of your purchase.
Precision Power PPI 900.4
Precision Power BK 800.4
Massive Audio NX4
Massive Audio D8004
MB Quart ONX4.125
I would assume it's an Alpine CDA-117, a very nice HU and yes it has front, rear and subwoofer outputs.
Now that disturbs me. You took it to a shop, like Car Toys, and they couldn't even run the wires right???!!!! That's simply unacceptable from ANY shop. Unless someone asks for something unusual all the wires should be hidden from view, no matter what. I've done installs in vehicles where the HU, speakers sub and amp the guy bought from Wal-Mart cost more than the vehicle was worth and still made sure that it looked like it was professionally installed. There's just no excuse for that. If I were you I sure as hell wouldn't ever go back to that place, for anything.
Precision Power PPI 900.4
Precision Power BK 800.4
Massive Audio NX4
Massive Audio D8004
MB Quart ONX4.125
I would assume it's an Alpine CDA-117, a very nice HU and yes it has front, rear and subwoofer outputs.
Now that disturbs me. You took it to a shop, like Car Toys, and they couldn't even run the wires right???!!!! That's simply unacceptable from ANY shop. Unless someone asks for something unusual all the wires should be hidden from view, no matter what. I've done installs in vehicles where the HU, speakers sub and amp the guy bought from Wal-Mart cost more than the vehicle was worth and still made sure that it looked like it was professionally installed. There's just no excuse for that. If I were you I sure as hell wouldn't ever go back to that place, for anything.
Last edited by altoncustomtech; 12-13-2012 at 09:53 AM.
#9
12-13-2012, 05:50 PM
So just in advance, i really appreciate the help you have given me so far it means a lot
the HU i have is not bad but its 4 or so years old. its this one: Alpine CDA-9883 By looking at the details on that site im sure it will work just fine. As for your other questions, I have no idea what crossovers are being utilized because i didnt do the wiring nor do i know how to check. The amp that is now powering my front components is an OLDDD Rockford Fosgate punch 45. The amp that is powering my sub is the JBL Grand Touring GTO601.1II. As for the gains, i read the sticky about that, it doesnt seem too hard. Ohh and the door speakers are Alpine Type-S components
And im pretty stingy with my volume lol i rarely ever go above half volume and always listen for stress. And yes car toys sucks, everyone who i have talked to who has been there was not happy with the quality of the install. They also stripped out my battery terminal because its the screw in type.
the HU i have is not bad but its 4 or so years old. its this one: Alpine CDA-9883 By looking at the details on that site im sure it will work just fine. As for your other questions, I have no idea what crossovers are being utilized because i didnt do the wiring nor do i know how to check. The amp that is now powering my front components is an OLDDD Rockford Fosgate punch 45. The amp that is powering my sub is the JBL Grand Touring GTO601.1II. As for the gains, i read the sticky about that, it doesnt seem too hard. Ohh and the door speakers are Alpine Type-S components
And im pretty stingy with my volume lol i rarely ever go above half volume and always listen for stress. And yes car toys sucks, everyone who i have talked to who has been there was not happy with the quality of the install. They also stripped out my battery terminal because its the screw in type.
Last edited by 97cherryblazer; 12-13-2012 at 05:54 PM.
#10
12-13-2012, 06:33 PM
Hey man, you're welcome. I'm glad I can help out.
To tell you honestly, setting the gain with a DMM isn't the best way to do it. If you trust your ears then you should use them. We'll go into detail on setting crosovers, gains and such when you get and install your new amp(s). So both the amps belong to your buddy? That's too bad, both are terrific amps, but we'll get you up and going with some pretty decent ones of your own. The Alpine Type S components are fairly decent too. You'll not likely to need to replace them anytime real soon.
Glad to hear you're careful with the volume. So many people around here think their **** is indestructible, then wonder why it breaks and don't believe me when I tell them why because the "dude at the audioshop who sold and installed it" said they "couldn't blow it up", lol. That old Punch 45 doesn't have the power to thermally blow your components, but like it's name sake it packs a hell of a punch. If they didn't turn on the high pass crossovers in the HU (I don't think the amp has any on it at all) it could very well drive the mids beyond their excursion limits and hurt things that way. The question that comes to my mind is why you think the amp is too powerful for the speakers? If you're hearing things sound stressed then there's probably a lot of settings on all of it that need checked.
Sounds like they left you a lot of work. That's absolutely shameful for a shop with as big a name as theirs. If you're up for the challenge I'm here to help you out with it, step you through it, and hopefully help you end up with a setup that you can be very proud of without spending an arm and a leg.
To tell you honestly, setting the gain with a DMM isn't the best way to do it. If you trust your ears then you should use them. We'll go into detail on setting crosovers, gains and such when you get and install your new amp(s). So both the amps belong to your buddy? That's too bad, both are terrific amps, but we'll get you up and going with some pretty decent ones of your own. The Alpine Type S components are fairly decent too. You'll not likely to need to replace them anytime real soon.
Glad to hear you're careful with the volume. So many people around here think their **** is indestructible, then wonder why it breaks and don't believe me when I tell them why because the "dude at the audioshop who sold and installed it" said they "couldn't blow it up", lol. That old Punch 45 doesn't have the power to thermally blow your components, but like it's name sake it packs a hell of a punch. If they didn't turn on the high pass crossovers in the HU (I don't think the amp has any on it at all) it could very well drive the mids beyond their excursion limits and hurt things that way. The question that comes to my mind is why you think the amp is too powerful for the speakers? If you're hearing things sound stressed then there's probably a lot of settings on all of it that need checked.
Sounds like they left you a lot of work. That's absolutely shameful for a shop with as big a name as theirs. If you're up for the challenge I'm here to help you out with it, step you through it, and hopefully help you end up with a setup that you can be very proud of without spending an arm and a leg.