Well the punch 45 is mine. The JBL is my buddies. When i said over powering i meant the JBL and the sub, i have the gain turned almost all the way down on it and run my bass at 0 most of the time. That way the sub wont bottom out on any song at the volume i listen to. The gain used to be at half way but at half volume the sub would over power everything and sound like it was being stressed. Maybe the sub was fine and it was just me but i dont like not being able to hear the music.

Then on the punch 45 there is a treble **** and a bass ****. I moved both of them to just over half way recently and it made those components sound 100x better. That was just all by ear so im sure if i went and toyed with some more settings i could make everything sound a lot better with what i have now. Just dont know where to start lol

But i wont be getting that amp for probably another 2 weeks (present to myself lol) so maybe if you could walk me through a couple things to make what i have now sound better till i can get the new amp? If you think thats possible lol.

But right now im leaning towards the Precision Power brand for the amp. I used to have a precision power 2x125 (i think) amp running my old kicker i had and i really liked it so precision power is good from what i have experienced.

 

That's kewl, my wife and I operate the van in much the same manner. The Q's never run anywhere near their full potential, there's just no need. Even turned down they'll move your hair and make your shirt flutter a little. I agree, there's no since in not being able to hear all the music.

Lol, I understand how you feel. The best place to start would be to see what Car Toys set all your settings to. Do you still have the book to your HU? If not it's available online, I downloaded it so I could read up a little on that unit. We need to see what ALL the audio settings are set to and then we can figure out what needs to be adjusted. Something tells me they've turned the HPF all the way up for starters.

I'm going to walk you through everything I can from here. It would sure be much faster and easier if you could just bring it over, lol, but don't worry we'll get it.

PPI is coming back, that's for sure. They got bought years ago by the same company that makes Power Acoustik, BOSS and the like and their beautiful name and fantastic products went to crap. They've recently had new life given to them by another company. Them and Sound Stream both suffered the same fate and now with the new direction they're beginning to make a come back. Not nearly to their former glory, but better than they were. I think either option would be worthy, and for what it's worth that Punch 45 needs to be closet kept for a rainy day. It's hard to compare to that old school muscle, but the PPI will have more power with much more headroom and do it all much more efficiently.

I would go through ALL the wiring with a fine tooth comb. Make sure the ground is in very good shape, verify where all the wires go, etc. Once you're done cleaning up their mess you'll have a better idea where you stand on everything else. Is your battery terminal still messed up? I've had success on more than one occasion using a Helicoil thread repair kit to repair stripped out side terminals on perfectly good batteries. Hell, I was even lucky enough to repair a big capacitor for a kid once with a helicoil.

 

Well my battery has been disconnected so many time so all the settings on the HU are from me. I know off the top of my head pretty much everything i have set. I leave my HPF at 80 (theres 4 options, off, 80, 120, 160 I think) then for bass there is a 1-4 number selection that i have no idea what its for then a 60, 80, 120 (& maybe 160) and i leave mine at 80, i assume that is related to the Hz the head unit sends to the sub channel? then treble has a 10k, 12.5k and 15k setting and i leave it at 12.5k.

The amp that is running my sub also has 3 adjustments. Two are for input and one is for gain. I have never touched any of the input ones.

My cousin and i went through and took care of a lot of the wiring when i ran the 4 gauge power and ground, i just want to separate the power and RCA's when i do the dampening. And for the battery i just removed the rubber guard so the bolt could screw into the battery further because its only the first two threads that are gone. I did get Helicoils for it tho a while ago, i just didnt use them. I might do that soon tho because it gets annoying when i hit enough bumps and everything shuts off because the bolt falls out lol.

 

I guess this slipped through the thread cracks. But i still havent got the new amp, i have been so busy with school and work i havent had time.

I think i will order it tomorrow when i get paid, but i keep saying that and one of my blazers throws something new at me every few weeks. So i guess if you could help me with some tuning of what i have now, that would be awesome.

Also, My battery has been in my truck since the day i got it (3 years ago) and i think its on its way out. If my truck is off and my stereo is going i can tap the brake pedal to turn on the tail lights and it will kill the stereo, i can do the same thing by opening a door. Its also not turning my truck over as nicely anymore, so hopefully the battery is the cause. Its just an interstate battery which i have heard are good... and it use to be really good until recently. So i guess what im saying is i may need battery advice as well.

 

Yeah it's been a little bit, lol.

Let me know when you're ready and we'll go through all of it and get you setup as well as we possibly can. It may take a little time, but it's definitely doable.

There's a lot of different kinds of batteries on the market these days that are typically pretty damn tough. I've had a lot of luck with DEKA Intimidator batteries. They run in the middle of the road in price and can take abuse pretty well. One of the guys in our car club has had the same one for about five years now. He's FULLY discharged that battery four times that I know of for sure from which it fully recovered and has never given him any issues. Not many batteries can do that, and he could just be really lucky, but I've seen them abused like that several other times and they've held up which is why they get my vote. I dropped one in the Jimmy when I started the audio install.

 

Ok so my sub is starting to rattle more and more so i think i am going to get a new sub along with the amp. I think i am going to get the . Do you think one of those amps you listed would power that sub and my door speakers? Or if i have to i will leave the amp i have powering my door speakers and get a new amp just for the sub.

In that case if you think i should go that way, what amp would you recommend to power that sub?

 

So i have made up my mind, i am going to keep my RF amp powering my components and just buy a new sub then a new amp for the sub.

So, i have been looking for a while and the more i look at amps the more lost i get lol. There are a million 2 channel amps out there and i have no idea what to trust. I looked at the brands you listed before and found this precision power that i think would work:
Precision Power PPI-P600.2

Then this is what i found just looking on my own:
Boston Acoustics GT-2125 (gt2125) GT Reference 2-Channel Amplifier
SoundStorm SSL EV2.2000 Evolution 2-Channel Car Amplifier/Amp
Power Acoustik BAMF-1800/2 (bamf18002) 1800W Max 2-Channel Class

I only selected those based on good reviews. For that Type-R everything that i have read says not to give it any more than 700 watts, If it were you what one of those amps would you trust to power that sub? Or if you have a different amp or even a different sub in mind that would be better. I dont really want to spend over 300$ which isnt a whole lot for what i want to do i know, but i just want something that will sound better than what i have. Lol my sub is starting to really annoy me, even though i only hear the rattle at low volume.

 

That sucks about your sub, although it does give you the opportunity to try something new. The Type-R is a proven sub and Jacob from Sundown Audio has mentioned a few times how much he likes some of the technology it uses. Of all the amps listed I like the Boston the best, the PPI comes in second there. I would never recommend the Soundstorm or Power Acoustik as they're just built far too cheap. That Boston is a SOLID amp from a company with a very solid background, and it's cheaper. The good reviews on the SoundStorm and Power Acoustik selections are there because the owners really don't know any better.

What kind of enclosure is your current sub in? Were you planning on using it for the Alpine? I only ask due to the fact the performance of the sub is almost entirely dependent on the quality of the enclosure. The one you have now may not be optimal for the Alpine.

 

I just have the generic sealed enclosure, but i also have a ported enclosure that you concluded was tuned to 37hz, ill look for the post. But you told me to take my sub out of that one and put it into the sealed one because it wasnt designed for ported. If you remember.

I think my sealed enclosure is 1.25 cu ft but i dont remember.

 

LOL, I kind of remember now. I do a LOT of car audio relating posting on SSA and help with issues here when I can as well, so my memory gets foggy sometimes, lol.

No need to look that stuff up though, it's all good. Would you be interested in building a new ported enclosure for the Type R? It will perform fine in that sealed enclosure, but it will really come alive in a ported one.