not nescessarily. you can run a 2 channel amp for a single sub. Either plug it directly in as stated OR you can bridge it (if possible on amp) which would be the positve of one block and the negative of the other block. The only downside is. With most 2 channels you will be able to hear like music throught the speakers. it wont be just bass. With a mono Class D you will get dead bass!

 

Thanks a lot guys it sounds great . I got the used Audiobahns 12" 400W RMS and 800W Peak. And I bought a Rockford Fosgate P450.2 amp. According to the Performance Verification Certificate included in the amp. box here are the specs. 177 RMS WATTS per channel @ 4 ohms
533 Total RMS WATTS @ 2 ohms

Which leads me to my next concern; Capacitor. LOL.
Everytime they DROP my alt and battery feel it!! I was thinking a 1 farad cap. ought to be enough, but anyone got any suggestions on brands, or know of any good for the price capacitors?

Here are some pics:
I'm using pick-up truck sub boxes.

[IMG]local://upfiles/3276/A6AA6508D57543F3857B1E54B902C3E1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/3276/2543324D1AC446FFA147976864FCC865.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/3276/49C8D19AA5CA482CB5F83DCC91EF61CE.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/3276/3228949B59A642B894981C8B6BD84A89.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/3276/88213B829588497A8AD06209D8D09C0C.jpg[/IMG]

 

First thing, yank that remote gain know off the dash and throw it out of your truck on the freeway.those things are a great way to blow subs. If someone buys an amp that has a remote gain, I do not install it, and I keep it in the box with the 50 others. Secondly, I do not buy into the whole capacitor idea, if they had definitive proof that they worked then they would be on competition cars, . Do the Big 3 upgrade that Jon (Xblazer) lays out HERE, and if you are still having problems, get a bigger alt.

 

w00t i was useful somehow lol.

But yea I wouldnt buy a cap.... personaly I think they're a waste cause if ur sitting at a red light ur lights still dim..... u have to be in motion for it to prevent dimming. and really...... i havent had much drain on any amp i've pushed.......... The PA pushed 1400 and no dimming.... (yea PA hahaha it sucked ok) But the real test will be the orion

 

I bought a cheap 1.5 Farad cap made by Cyclone off of fleabay for like $15.00 and I'm runnin' two Audiobauhn ALUM12's (2000W peak and 1000W rms each) with a Kenwood 9152D amp (class D 1800W mono). This cheap one works great, I never get any surges or anything like that, and they hit around 100db so I'm told. Here's a pic.
Caprice subs

 

Wow all that "Big 3" talk sounds complicated. lastcoupe your lights don't dim at all when those subs drop? I had a buddy who installed a walmart cap in his system and it didn't solve the dimming problem. But, I figured since the cap. was indeed from wal mart maybe that had a lot to do with it. Okay, I just put a bigger battery (1000 ca, 800 cca, 110 amps) and that didn't help at all. Do you think a H.O. alt from Iraggi would solve my problem?

 

not hard at all. just replace those thre wires with bigger gauge.an Irragi Ilt or one from Ohio generator would be a great help.

 

No, I have no flickering or dimming concerns, but I also custom built my own engine and replaced my battery and battery cables when I did. I also installed new custom body and chassis grounds just because I am an electrical tech and I didn't want any problems after my engine install (when I was younger I swapped out an engine and didn't get a good-enough ground on the body and on the test drive It melted the positive and negative battery cables). I honestly think that I could have gotten-by with the stock replacement cables, but you can never have too many grounds IMO.

A HO alt couldn't hurt, but I would first make sure that you have a good battery-to-engine ground, battery-to-body ground, and Engine-to-chassis ground. I also ran one from engine-to-body.

I don't know anything about competition stereos, but I do have a thorough understanding of electricity and Capacitors, and I personally believe that A cap is a great idea for a powerful system. A cap is in-a-sence a battery, It stores a charge for the amp when it needs it during those heavy bass sessions. If you think they don't do anything install a digital one on your system and crank it up. Watch the display on the top of the cap drop when the bass hits, that's power that would be coming from your charging system but is being supplied by the Capacitor instead.

 

Yea, XBlazer's instructions are very detailed I might just give it a try this weekend. Thanks A Lot for your help everyone! I'm not sure what I wanna do, but I'll most likely replace the wires this weekend WISH ME LUCK!

 

Read up on Caps here, if they do work, they are a band-aid at best.

and here as well.