Upgrading speakers in my 2000 Blazer LT?
#33
Sorry me again. Yes tweeters are directional but you don't want to fire them at you. Best place is door panel or a pillar mounted in the same spot firing across the vehicle at each other. If you fire them at you it will conflict with the mid speakers an destroy you sound stage. Ok sorry I hijacked this thread I've just had a lot of folks help me out on this forum I'm no mechanic. But I've been building car audio systems for 35 years so just trying to help where I can
#34
For what it's worth, I installed components in all 4 doors and actually unplugged the factory tweeters in the dash completely. The components in the rear doors are overkill, honestly would have been fine with just coax in the rear or even just the mid drivers and leaving the tweeters out of the rear completely... If you sit far back in the front seats the rear tweeters are pretty much right in your ear lol so they can be a little overpowering. The sound stage is pretty good, but I wan to unplug the tweeters in the rear or possibly even put them on a toggle switch so that I can disable them and enable them if ever wanted, just haven't got around to it... I can of course just fade to the front and it does the same thing, but I can hear the mid frequencies come forward and it just sounds less "full"...
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 10-29-2018 at 08:10 PM.
#35
Do your components have a cross over network that they came with or is it built into the speaker? The external network should have a few spots to hook the pos lead from the tweeter that will allow you to town them down a bit. Hell pull the back tweets an add them to the front lol. Sounds like you found something that is usable just have to play around an tweak them a bit
#36
I'm not trying to do anything elaborate. I just want it to sound good and loud enough . And it's funny you mention blowing the 4x6s. I haven't gotten my component set yet and still have the 4x6s in the dash. The other day, the "crossover" if that's what you wanna call it, for the tweeter popped and smoke came out from under the dash speaker grill. Lol So I took the 4x6s out until I can replace them with the tweeters from the components . Any ideas on why that happened ? And yes I play my music just about as loud as I can get it without distortion all the time . Which is about 32 and the radio goes to 40. I've never had that happen before , so I wasn't sure how it happened exactly. Lol
Now, about the tweeters . By reversing and facing the factory tweeter plates forward, they wouldn't be aimed directly at me . More like crossways and up a lil . Lol I'm gonna play with placement a lil before I mount them permanently though . Where do yall suggest putting the crossovers? I have the amp mounted under the dash on the passenger side and am planning on running new speaker wire from the amp wires behind the radio . Thought about putting them in the dash under the tweeters with 3M tape, but I don't want them to magically come loose and start bouncing around in there. I didn't know if there was some place better or more convenient without running unnecessary wiring.
Now, about the tweeters . By reversing and facing the factory tweeter plates forward, they wouldn't be aimed directly at me . More like crossways and up a lil . Lol I'm gonna play with placement a lil before I mount them permanently though . Where do yall suggest putting the crossovers? I have the amp mounted under the dash on the passenger side and am planning on running new speaker wire from the amp wires behind the radio . Thought about putting them in the dash under the tweeters with 3M tape, but I don't want them to magically come loose and start bouncing around in there. I didn't know if there was some place better or more convenient without running unnecessary wiring.
#37
Do your components have a cross over network that they came with or is it built into the speaker? The external network should have a few spots to hook the pos lead from the tweeter that will allow you to town them down a bit. Hell pull the back tweets an add them to the front lol. Sounds like you found something that is usable just have to play around an tweak them a bit
I run a high pass filter set at 60htz to the door spears through a small in dash Alpine 4 channel amp, then a low pass of 100htz to my 2 12's in the rear and it covers the full range very well. I can crank my stereo almost to max without distortion and drown out wind noise with the windows down at 70mph and it sounds clear as can be. I've found with most Pioneer decks (which is what I prefer to run) you can crank up to about 5 volume "clicks" short of full blast before the deck itself starts clipping and introducing distortion. So long as I keep it under that level (55-57 out of 62 volume "clicks") it just gets loud and stays clear I also have a volume **** interrupting the signal heading back to the amp powering the 12's mounted in the ash try so that I can dial in the bass level as needed, since I listen to a variety of music genre's and one bass level setting just will not work across all music types lol
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 10-30-2018 at 12:15 PM.
#38
No external crossover brick with them, just a bass blocker on the tweeters.
I run a high pass filter set at 60htz to the door spears through a small in dash Alpine 4 channel amp, then a low pass of 100htz to my 2 12's in the rear and it covers the full range very well. I can crank my stereo almost to max without distortion and drown out wind noise with the windows down at 70mph and it sounds clear as can be. I've found with most Pioneer decks (which is what I prefer to run) you can crank up to about 5 volume "clicks" short of full blast before the deck itself starts clipping and introducing distortion. So long as I keep it under that level (55-57 out of 62 volume "clicks") it just gets loud and stays clear I also have a volume **** interrupting the signal heading back to the amp powering the 12's mounted in the ash try so that I can dial in the bass level as needed, since I listen to a variety of music genre's and one bass level setting just will not work across all music types lol
I run a high pass filter set at 60htz to the door spears through a small in dash Alpine 4 channel amp, then a low pass of 100htz to my 2 12's in the rear and it covers the full range very well. I can crank my stereo almost to max without distortion and drown out wind noise with the windows down at 70mph and it sounds clear as can be. I've found with most Pioneer decks (which is what I prefer to run) you can crank up to about 5 volume "clicks" short of full blast before the deck itself starts clipping and introducing distortion. So long as I keep it under that level (55-57 out of 62 volume "clicks") it just gets loud and stays clear I also have a volume **** interrupting the signal heading back to the amp powering the 12's mounted in the ash try so that I can dial in the bass level as needed, since I listen to a variety of music genre's and one bass level setting just will not work across all music types lol
#39
It's just all about the physical setup and installation, electronically they're identical, that is of course assuming your comparing the same brand and line-up of speakers.
For instance let's say you're interested in the Rockford Fosgate Prime series of speakers. For pretty much every size (accept the smaller ones) they have both a coax set and a component set. They share nearly identical specs as far as wattage, ohm rating, frequency response, etc, just one has the tweeter installed as part of the speaker assembly, and one has the tweeter as a separate entity.
#40
Mount the cross overs under the dash or behind the door panel any place you find that is easy. I would zip tie them in if they are going to be against metal or plastic use foam or even a small piece of card board behind them to give them a cushion an they won't rattle