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Upgrading speakers in my 2000 Blazer LT?

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  #31  
Old 10-29-2018 | 07:52 PM
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Oh an component sets are nice but put a good amp on them an you will always blow the tweeters. Try cadence they have entry level coax an mid drivers that are pretty cheap. Handle decent power and sound really good
 
  #32  
Old 10-29-2018 | 07:55 PM
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Sorry back again. You can get front an rear door panels on eBay for a decent price. Just have to look through a ton of listings. Or just rebuild them
 
  #33  
Old 10-29-2018 | 08:02 PM
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Sorry me again. Yes tweeters are directional but you don't want to fire them at you. Best place is door panel or a pillar mounted in the same spot firing across the vehicle at each other. If you fire them at you it will conflict with the mid speakers an destroy you sound stage. Ok sorry I hijacked this thread I've just had a lot of folks help me out on this forum I'm no mechanic. But I've been building car audio systems for 35 years so just trying to help where I can
 
  #34  
Old 10-29-2018 | 08:07 PM
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For what it's worth, I installed components in all 4 doors and actually unplugged the factory tweeters in the dash completely. The components in the rear doors are overkill, honestly would have been fine with just coax in the rear or even just the mid drivers and leaving the tweeters out of the rear completely... If you sit far back in the front seats the rear tweeters are pretty much right in your ear lol so they can be a little overpowering. The sound stage is pretty good, but I wan to unplug the tweeters in the rear or possibly even put them on a toggle switch so that I can disable them and enable them if ever wanted, just haven't got around to it... I can of course just fade to the front and it does the same thing, but I can hear the mid frequencies come forward and it just sounds less "full"...
 

Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 10-29-2018 at 08:10 PM.
  #35  
Old 10-29-2018 | 08:17 PM
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Do your components have a cross over network that they came with or is it built into the speaker? The external network should have a few spots to hook the pos lead from the tweeter that will allow you to town them down a bit. Hell pull the back tweets an add them to the front lol. Sounds like you found something that is usable just have to play around an tweak them a bit
 
  #36  
Old 10-30-2018 | 06:29 AM
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I'm not trying to do anything elaborate. I just want it to sound good and loud enough . And it's funny you mention blowing the 4x6s. I haven't gotten my component set yet and still have the 4x6s in the dash. The other day, the "crossover" if that's what you wanna call it, for the tweeter popped and smoke came out from under the dash speaker grill. Lol So I took the 4x6s out until I can replace them with the tweeters from the components . Any ideas on why that happened ? And yes I play my music just about as loud as I can get it without distortion all the time . Which is about 32 and the radio goes to 40. I've never had that happen before , so I wasn't sure how it happened exactly. Lol

Now, about the tweeters . By reversing and facing the factory tweeter plates forward, they wouldn't be aimed directly at me . More like crossways and up a lil . Lol I'm gonna play with placement a lil before I mount them permanently though . Where do yall suggest putting the crossovers? I have the amp mounted under the dash on the passenger side and am planning on running new speaker wire from the amp wires behind the radio . Thought about putting them in the dash under the tweeters with 3M tape, but I don't want them to magically come loose and start bouncing around in there. I didn't know if there was some place better or more convenient without running unnecessary wiring.
 
  #37  
Old 10-30-2018 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Big'n
Do your components have a cross over network that they came with or is it built into the speaker? The external network should have a few spots to hook the pos lead from the tweeter that will allow you to town them down a bit. Hell pull the back tweets an add them to the front lol. Sounds like you found something that is usable just have to play around an tweak them a bit
No external crossover brick with them, just a bass blocker on the tweeters.

I run a high pass filter set at 60htz to the door spears through a small in dash Alpine 4 channel amp, then a low pass of 100htz to my 2 12's in the rear and it covers the full range very well. I can crank my stereo almost to max without distortion and drown out wind noise with the windows down at 70mph and it sounds clear as can be. I've found with most Pioneer decks (which is what I prefer to run) you can crank up to about 5 volume "clicks" short of full blast before the deck itself starts clipping and introducing distortion. So long as I keep it under that level (55-57 out of 62 volume "clicks") it just gets loud and stays clear I also have a volume **** interrupting the signal heading back to the amp powering the 12's mounted in the ash try so that I can dial in the bass level as needed, since I listen to a variety of music genre's and one bass level setting just will not work across all music types lol
 

Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 10-30-2018 at 12:15 PM.
  #38  
Old 10-30-2018 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by blazen_red_4x4
No external crossover brick with them, just a bass blocker on the tweeters.

I run a high pass filter set at 60htz to the door spears through a small in dash Alpine 4 channel amp, then a low pass of 100htz to my 2 12's in the rear and it covers the full range very well. I can crank my stereo almost to max without distortion and drown out wind noise with the windows down at 70mph and it sounds clear as can be. I've found with most Pioneer decks (which is what I prefer to run) you can crank up to about 5 volume "clicks" short of full blast before the deck itself starts clipping and introducing distortion. So long as I keep it under that level (55-57 out of 62 volume "clicks") it just gets loud and stays clear I also have a volume **** interrupting the signal heading back to the amp powering the 12's mounted in the ash try so that I can dial in the bass level as needed, since I listen to a variety of music genre's and one bass level setting just will not work across all music types lol
Idk if I've said this already or not, but the amp I'm running for my mids and highs is a pioneer gm d1004 45 watts x 4. Kinda like your alpine . I mounted mine under the passenger side dash though. I swear it puts out more than 45 watts. Lol And the thing is , it automatically adjusts power output by volume and hpf is set at 80 hz. So you can't adjust the gain or the hpf, unless you set it to full. So it's set to 80hz hpf and my 12's are set at 120hz . I know that's a lil high, but I like it. Lol I'm hoping after putting in the components ,using the 6 1/2s in the doors and the tweeters in the dash, it'll sound a lot better. I plan on using stinger fast rings and a lil sound dampening when I put them in . So that should help some . And can someone explain to me how a mid woofer and tweeter in a component set only uses the same amount of wattage as one coaxial speaker instead of using double the wattage even though they're still 2 speakers? If that makes sense . Lol 😁
 
  #39  
Old 10-30-2018 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Maverick338369
And can someone explain to me how a mid woofer and tweeter in a component set only uses the same amount of wattage as one coaxial speaker instead of using double the wattage even though they're still 2 speakers? If that makes sense . Lol 😁
Most component sets are literally a split apart coax speaker. Some component kits even come with hardware to mount the tweeter in the center and in front of the mid driver, basically turning it into a coax.

It's just all about the physical setup and installation, electronically they're identical, that is of course assuming your comparing the same brand and line-up of speakers.

For instance let's say you're interested in the Rockford Fosgate Prime series of speakers. For pretty much every size (accept the smaller ones) they have both a coax set and a component set. They share nearly identical specs as far as wattage, ohm rating, frequency response, etc, just one has the tweeter installed as part of the speaker assembly, and one has the tweeter as a separate entity.







 
  #40  
Old 10-30-2018 | 05:44 PM
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Mount the cross overs under the dash or behind the door panel any place you find that is easy. I would zip tie them in if they are going to be against metal or plastic use foam or even a small piece of card board behind them to give them a cushion an they won't rattle
 


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