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Where did you place the ground for your amplifier?? Suggestions...

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  #21  
Old 03-23-2010, 10:02 PM
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It wont be a volume notice but you will notice that you can run it at idle better. I used to have to turn mine right down. Mind you I do have a cap (switching to 2 new batteries) and it has made such a difference. My cap never goes below 14v at idle and at pretty high volume and bass hitting hard.
 
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:56 PM
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Question for those who placed their amp/s on the lil panel that is located behind the seats...ho Does the amp get hot? if so how how hot from a scale of 0 to 10. 10 beiing hotest? My amp gets hot to the touch... i have it grounded on the bolt that holds the panel...
 
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ExplicitYourSelf
Question for those who placed their amp/s on the lil panel that is located behind the seats...ho Does the amp get hot? if so how how hot from a scale of 0 to 10. 10 beiing hotest? My amp gets hot to the touch... i have it grounded on the bolt that holds the panel...
i have that same issue,my Amp(crunch P1400.2 2/1 ch) i have in my bravada gets almost too hot to touch..and i have it grounded the same as the guy i quoted,to the stud/nut that holds on that lil panel..though mines a 0/1 gauge to a dist block(in case i hook up my 4ch amp i have in the future) to 4 gauge wire as my amp has tiny *** wire terminals(like 8 gauge)..do i need a better ground??
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 05:53 PM
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That's kind of a big amp for 4gauge wire (it's a long run from the engine bay...). You might also want to look at your big-3 contact points. Your bad ground might be up front from chassis->battery and not amp->chassis. Battery terminals and connectors clean? You running the AD-244 alternator yet???

I wouldn't recommend having your amps on the backs of the seats. I've rolled like that for a couple months now and my seat flap is starting to sag backwards under the weight of the amp (from hitting bumps just driving around).

As long as your contact points are shiny,clean, and tight, ground location isn't critical.

For power&ground make sure your wire is soldiered to the ring terminals really well. I used plumbing flux and soldier with a map-gas torch =). My ground is 4gauge to the frame by the rear wheel behind the parking brake cable. Power is 2/0 passing through electrical conduit in a big hole I made under the rear seat.

I upgraded to 2/0 wire from Lowe's for about $50. People will hate on Lowe's/home depot wire, but copper is copper for low voltage systems as long as it's made of solid copper strands. "Competition" 1/0 and 2/0 is just made with thinner strands of copper to give it more flexibility (it'll bend easier).
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:05 PM
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nice, thanks for the tips... Can you direct me a to the exact wire you pivked ip from lowes? that would be very helpful... thanks once again
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:02 PM
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i personally have 1300 watts rms running in my truck with a zero gauge kit run into a distro block. so i have no issues with grounding. but, i have a 2 door so my ground is much easier than 4 doors. i use my spare tire like i said before.

i'm running a JL 1000/1 and a JL 300/4
 
  #27  
Old 08-18-2010, 09:19 PM
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I was running 2500 watts with 1/0. Had no problems with a ground. Mine was the seat bolt under the folded seat. I used a drill and dremel bit (dremel is broken) to sand all the paint away. I never really felt my amps tho to see if they were hot.
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:29 PM
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mine are under a false floor and don't over heat so...

i do have an elongated oval cut out and blah blah blah... it works but wasn't easy work
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:47 PM
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Mine wont overheat in the garage collecting dust lol
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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thats a great place! i prefer dryer areas but up on a shelf or something works great
 


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