So I am getting a bar and two foglights and was wondering how everyone one else ran the wires from the lights into the front end and any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advace!

 

I ran mine through the tow hook openings and up through behind the bumper and down the side through the opening behind the parking lamps and down behind the fender and through the door frame, behind the dash, underneath the carpet, and into the center console to the switch panel I made. The power wire for the switch is going underneath the cowl strip and down the other side behind the fender to the battery. The only wiring you can see is the inch of wiring going through the door when it's open. Other than that, that's it. If you want to wire them into a switch by the headlight switch, stop at the dash part. If you check out my switch panel and you like, let me know. I can explain how to make one. Click here for the pics.

I was told that there is a gromet in the floor behind the passenger side carpet that you can run the wires through, just punch a hole in the rubber and run the wires through. Not sure on exact location, but someone might be able to tell you.

If you have any questions, just ask. I just installed my westin safari bar about 4 months ago, so it's still fresh in my mind. I can snap any pics you like too if it'll help you out. Shoot me a pm if you need any help.

 

why did you go behind the dash if your hooked up intoa switch in the center console? I dont know much about wirring, but I just want the lights controled on a seprate switch, so power, ground, fuse, switch where ever? Thanks for the help, your truck actually helped me makethe decision and the fact that in SC and driving all the time I need more light. Also, does anyone have anything to say about remote wirring the fogs, thought that might be cool, say camping, fishing etc.

 

Well, the truck lights are going underneath the dash down by the pedals. Sorry, it's the fog lights that I have going through the dash to the headlight panel to a rocker switch. Sorry bout that. I put the wires towards the back of the dash behind the pedals and then ran them down to the center and then ran them straight into the center console and to the switch panel. The fuse should be in the lines that come with the lights. Mine did. I bought the Pilot Truck Lights with the chrome housing. They are about $40 at Wal-Mart. You can either use the switch that comes with the lights, but those things are bulky and not very stylish. I bought a $5 rocker switch at Wal-Mart also. I was actually thinking about doing the remote thing myself. It just works like a keyless entry thing. You press the button and the lights turn on from a distance away. Check the wattage rating on the remote because the ones I have seen are made for fog lights, they might be a different wattage handling limit. I'll take a few pics tomorrow morning when it's light out to show where I ran the wires and to where a good place to wire in the ground is. I found a stock ground under the cowl strip on the drivers side that has a couple of different things grounded to it already. I just added the wires for my light. I had to run two wires (one for the pilot lights and one for the fogs)because wiring them together shorted it out and it didn't work. I'll post tomorrow morning with the pics and a complete walk-through of the wiring process and I'll even throw in how-to make that switch panel. Maybe it could be used as a how-to write-up when I'm done.

 

I ran my wires through the gromet, and have the switches mounted in the pocket of my CD Player's dash kit... They stay pretty good when you turn them vertical...

Not very professional, but it works...

Odd, that I haven't blown my fuses on my driving lights yet...
Foglights, yes, but not driving lights...

 

Ahh. I see what you did now davtak. I really am pondering the remote wirring route. Kind of cool to be able to turn your lights on remotely if you needed to. Just that a few that I've found do not list any specifications or max watts or anything. They seem cool with key fobs and everything, I just dont want to burn my truck down. Also, I was thinking that it has to drain the battery sum. I have a red top, and even though the things bullet-proof I wonder what kinds of drain will be on it. Also, with a 12" sub, an amp, numerous electronic devices etc.
Yeah drperry, I havent yet found that passenger side gromet and I want it to look stock in-side, as far as wires and everything. I was thinking about mounting my switch if I do mount one in a panel, made for the coin-holder thingy below the arm rest. That is after I check it out and find out, exactlly how davtak made that fancy panel.

 

I tried to do a write-up last night but photobucket was acting weird and wouldn't let me resize the pics. Every time I clicked edit, it would log me out. I resized them at work and when I get home, I have to do a spyware doctor scan and clean out the cookies and then I will try again. It's a pretty detailed walkthrough with the steps to make the panel. I saved the write-up to my document folder so all I have to do is cut and paste and fix the links to the pics and I will post it sometime tonight. I get home around 5:30 from work, so if the computer is free, I will post it around 6:30-7ish.

Oh, and Dennis, where exactly is this grommet you speak of. I am going to reroute the wires in the springtime through this grommet to make it look stock too. Also add some looming under the hood too for a custom touch. As you can tell by the pics I am going to post, we had our first snow of the season along with some hail too. Yay 4 wheel drive lol.

 

when i installed my B&M shift plus a few weeks ago, i had to run wires through the firewall. there appears to be a rubber stopper about 1.5 wide. if you pull the carpet away from the passenger sidefloorboard you'll see it. start at the very top and just keep pulling. there is one wire going straight through the middle of it.

i dont know if that is the place people talk about but it looks like it should work. i ended up running the wires through the same hole as my amp cable. which was about 2" away from the rubber stopper.

 

That was where drperry had told me it was. I think that is what he is talking about. i will have to look for myself to see. I'll have to keep that in mind also when I do my system in the spring.

 

Okay-here goes nothing lol.

The first thing obviously is to install the bar (which is pretty simple with the instructions they give you) and then stand back and marvel in your work. Then, mount the lights you bought to the mounts on the safari bar and push the wires through the tow hook openings.


On this step, I needed more wire to make the length good to reach inside the truck. I went inside the truck with the switch panel in place (instructions on how to make this at the end of this) and hooked up the other end of the wiring harness they give you. I then snipped the end off of the end that would plug into the lights and (using bullet connectors and electrical tape) I added more wire to the harness so it would reach to the lights.


I then ran the wires out the back of the center console and underneath the dash (carpet really) and ran then up the kick panel and up the side of the dash and through the door frame. The 2 inches of wire that are there is the only peice noticable.


Sustitute this step for the grommet in the floor, which I will be doing myself in the spring as soon as I find this thing!

I then ran the wiring into the engine bay where I have the wiring for the fog lights also, so the pics might get a little confusing. I found a factory ground under the cowl strip that was perfect place for the grounds. I had to run two grounds because they did not work when grounded together.


I then connected a power wire to the battery and ran it around the engine bay to the back and under the cowl strip and connected it to the harness for the lights. I connected both the fogs and the truck lights to the same wire because the power wire you can connect more than one with no problem. I then split the wire to two when I got to the ground screw area.


I then bunched all the wires together and ran them down behind the drivers side fender and through the opening right next to the intake opening behind the headlight. I then ran the down behind the front bumper and down through the openings on either side of the radiator support which lead right down to the tow hook area.



I then reconnected the ends from the original harness with connectors to the added wire and hooked them up and wrapped the connections in electrical tape just to be careful when it rains and snows, put the front grille back on, and reconnected the negative terminal on the battery. I flipped the switch and viola, lights!


Now the switch panel is real simple. What you need is:
-8"x10" sheet of plexiglass
-goggles or safety glasses
-dremel or comparable rotary tool with cutting wheel
-fine tip marker
-sander or sandpaper (I used a Black&Decker Mouse)
-carbon fiber sticker (purchased at auto parts store)
-4 switches of your choice with screw ring on underside
-velcro with sticky back

Take the cd holder (or change holder if you are doing a smaller panel) out of the center console and flip it upside down on the plexiglass sheet with the paper still on. Trace the outside of the cd holder (or change holder) with the marker. Trim it out with the dremel a little outside of the lines. Do a test fit to see where