[PROJECT] It's About That Time
So apparently the FTS202 kit is about 32" long. Not exactly a long leaf. Definitely doesn't go under the main spring like I thought, and was told by a reputable vendor.
At least it's not as hot and I have a breeze today.
Passenger side complete. Couldn't get the bushings out so I just did the AAL. Maybe I'll ask a friend with a torch to come over another time.
Hey Gary,
I do not have the actual length on hand, I do know that it's placed right below the longest leaf in the spring pack though. It comes with all necessary hardware for the install.
Thanks bud,
I do not have the actual length on hand, I do know that it's placed right below the longest leaf in the spring pack though. It comes with all necessary hardware for the install.
Thanks bud,
Passenger side complete. Couldn't get the bushings out so I just did the AAL. Maybe I'll ask a friend with a torch to come over another time.
FTS202:

Energy Suspension rear leaf spring/shackle bushings: (The black ones are impregnated with silicone to help lubricate, the red are not)

Removed u-bolts and shock:

Unattached view:

With C-clamps on leaf spring getting ready to unbolt centering bolt:

Loosen and remove centering bolt and SLOWLY and EVENLY loosen the C-clamps:

You can leave this clip attached for the FTS202, this particular AAL doesn't go in between that clip but a long leaf would:

Made my own leaf spring isolators out of leftover sheetmetal in the same style as the stockers since they were not supplied with the kit: (I also cut up some Rubbermaid garbage can to use on the ends of the AAL like the stockers had as well)

Laid it on top of the AAL:

Line everything up and put the C-clamps back on to compress the AAL into the spring pack, again SLOWLY and EVENLY: (I found out when I did the driver's side that a bottle jack under the leaf pack was very helpful.)

All tight, now install new centering bolt*:

*I did not use the one provided with the kit because the head on the bolt was round and I didn't see a practical way to tighten it. Plus the instructions say to put the nut on the top side and cut the bolt flush with the nut. Only problem is the nut is too big to fit back into the mounting plate on the axle housing.
Bolt everything back up, torque to good-en-tight.
Test 'er out:

Clearance: (with passenger's side front tire on telephone pole)





Clearance: (with driver's side front tire on telephone pole)





Before, middle (pre-lift, just tires), and after:



(No before PS shot)

AAL gave me roughly the advertised 2", 1" t-bar crank. No rubbing on turns. Haven't really gotten rough with it yet. Tires are no louder than stockers. I don't know if it's a placebo of wider tires or if the tires I had were just that bad but she felt a lot more sturdy in turns. Speedometer is 11-12% off so 22 on the speedo is 25, 31 is 35, 49 is 55, 58 is 65 - until I get a tune or at least the speedometer calibrated. Brakes don't seem to be working any harder at lower speeds, I did notice a little bit slowing down off the highway offramp that I had to brake a little more. Upgrades (hopefully C5) will be a 'want' situation instead of a 'need' situation. Drives pretty straight, a minute pull to the right but I'm going to get an alignment anyway. Like I said earlier, I'll have to get a friend over with a torch or a cutting wheel to get the bolts for the stock bushings out.
Future plans after I recover from this one include: New low-mileage torsion bars OR ZR2 bars (I've been told they need to be modified to fit into non-ZR2 a-arms), new shocks, fender flares, matching spare, hitch, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.

Energy Suspension rear leaf spring/shackle bushings: (The black ones are impregnated with silicone to help lubricate, the red are not)

Removed u-bolts and shock:

Unattached view:

With C-clamps on leaf spring getting ready to unbolt centering bolt:

Loosen and remove centering bolt and SLOWLY and EVENLY loosen the C-clamps:

You can leave this clip attached for the FTS202, this particular AAL doesn't go in between that clip but a long leaf would:

Made my own leaf spring isolators out of leftover sheetmetal in the same style as the stockers since they were not supplied with the kit: (I also cut up some Rubbermaid garbage can to use on the ends of the AAL like the stockers had as well)

Laid it on top of the AAL:

Line everything up and put the C-clamps back on to compress the AAL into the spring pack, again SLOWLY and EVENLY: (I found out when I did the driver's side that a bottle jack under the leaf pack was very helpful.)

All tight, now install new centering bolt*:

*I did not use the one provided with the kit because the head on the bolt was round and I didn't see a practical way to tighten it. Plus the instructions say to put the nut on the top side and cut the bolt flush with the nut. Only problem is the nut is too big to fit back into the mounting plate on the axle housing.
Bolt everything back up, torque to good-en-tight.
Test 'er out:

Clearance: (with passenger's side front tire on telephone pole)





Clearance: (with driver's side front tire on telephone pole)





Before, middle (pre-lift, just tires), and after:



(No before PS shot)


AAL gave me roughly the advertised 2", 1" t-bar crank. No rubbing on turns. Haven't really gotten rough with it yet. Tires are no louder than stockers. I don't know if it's a placebo of wider tires or if the tires I had were just that bad but she felt a lot more sturdy in turns. Speedometer is 11-12% off so 22 on the speedo is 25, 31 is 35, 49 is 55, 58 is 65 - until I get a tune or at least the speedometer calibrated. Brakes don't seem to be working any harder at lower speeds, I did notice a little bit slowing down off the highway offramp that I had to brake a little more. Upgrades (hopefully C5) will be a 'want' situation instead of a 'need' situation. Drives pretty straight, a minute pull to the right but I'm going to get an alignment anyway. Like I said earlier, I'll have to get a friend over with a torch or a cutting wheel to get the bolts for the stock bushings out.
Future plans after I recover from this one include: New low-mileage torsion bars OR ZR2 bars (I've been told they need to be modified to fit into non-ZR2 a-arms), new shocks, fender flares, matching spare, hitch, etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.
, but it does follow the contour of where I cut.




