This product is designed to go on rocker panels to help cushion against rock chips. Some formulas are made to be painted over with certain type of rubberized paint just like factory did, but I found that I like the black by itself. I never sanded - just wiped down with mineral oil. You can get it in a spray can or as a liquid. Goes by the names: Rock Gaurd, Stone Gaurd, Gravel Gaurd from various manufacturers. Can come in different colors.

 

Christine gave you great advice on feathering in the repaired paint. As far as the core support grind the paint away from the cracked areas and bevel the cracks then weld them up. Make sure to keep any wiring away while welding.

 

Thanks guys, I will keep thinking about painting the whole rocker panels and doing more research. The first thing on my mind is how it stands up to the test of time. Chipping etc... Does it fade quickly in the sun? I say this because I painted my front bumper with spray-on bed liner over 2 coats of primer and 1 year later it's already rusting and chipping in the front, and not to mention the sun has sucked out some of its color too. I've been thinking of POR-15 on the roof rack, front bumper, and frame to remedy that situation before winter comes, I'd respray the bed liner over the POR on the bumper and maybe a touch of clear coat on top of the bedliner for sun protection.

Now for the rad support Hess, I know you have a lot of experience welding so I have a question. Would you remove the ac condenser and rad before welding there?

Here are the results of the repaired area, I'm not very happy as I waited too long after spraying the clear coat to take the tape off and it made for some messy lines when taking the tape off. I'm not sure if I will try and fix it up more or just leave it how it is, I almost think I had more luck with the paint pen repair I did today on the rear driver-side inner fender...lol



Well I'm back off to school for the week now, I have to drive the blazer out 2 times this week so I hope the alignment isn't too knocked off from the pitman arm replacement. Then the axle replacement on Friday.

 

Great! Glad you're balancing things with the schooling!! Talk later.

 

Thanks Les! Much appreciated, I'm in my last year now so I'm doing some cool things. For my capstone, my group is designing the battery module for a solar-powered car my university is making, I'm also a mechanical lead in the solar car club so I will get lots of experience and hands-on work in the suspension, steering, and frame design!! UBC van's solar car is pictured below, we are working closely with UBC van but of course, we are our own club at UBCO.



Now I have some bad news, I went to test drive the Blazer today before leaving for school as I hadn't driven it since putting the pitman arm in yet... It drove worse than when I put the lift in, it's pulling so hard to the right it's crazy! The steering wheel needs to be a fair bit left for it to drive straight, I can't even safely drive it 20 km/h down a road without any other cars LOL. So I didn't drive it to school obviously and looks like it will be down for the week. Now onto the task at hand, the pitman arm was keyed so it could only go on 4 ways, it went on the exact same way the old one came off, I think the steering wheel would be much more off if I messed something up there. The only thing I can see is the new pitman arm looks like it sits further down on the steering box splines than the old one which may be the reason it's affecting my alignment so much, but 185 ft-lbs is 185 ft-lbs so there's nothing more I can really do there. I think I will try the at-home string alignment and get it safely down to the shop, I did it after I put the lift in along with a visual for adjusting the camber and it got me down to the shop no problem.

 

I would un bolt the upper shroud and put something between the rad and the support just to be safe. On your paint repair I think some wet sanding would help. Ive never used any bed liner but my buddy did his rocker panels with the herculiner roll on stuff 8-10 years ago and still looks good. He did sand the down the paint where he applied though.

 

Thanks Hess, that will be on my to-do list.

Well I'm back folks, things were going well with the axle replacement when I got it all back together and noticed I tore my lower ball joint boot. So off to the parts store I stormed off, then back in on the suspension once more to tear the knuckle off lol. We got there in the end... Got it aligned today and am back on the road, it always feels unreal driving it after doing major work. I'm not totally satisfied with the alignment, still feels like it pulls to the right a bit, but I'll drive it around tomorrow and see if it's worth going back to the shop. I also jacked up the T bars to level the front out with the rear, about an inch higher in front. I'm going to start a new thread about battery options since I had the nice surprise of a dead battery when it was time to go today, I got it load tested at the shop and it showed 338 CCA, 650 is spec.

 

Glad you have it fixed. Good work!

 

Decided it was time for an update since I'm on a break this week, a lot has happened in the last little bit! I will say first I took it back in for another alignment and lowered the front 1/4" a few days ago because it wasn't driving very well on the road with those settings. I also got out wheeling with my friends over the weekend and saw some snow for the first time this year! (usually, we have a good bit by now) Unfortunately, while I was out there the radio kept cutting out again. I'll have to see what's going on now since that group tap I added over the summer did work flawlessly up until now, another job for over the break!



Now it's time for the juicy stuff, I pulled a Dana 60 high pinion (Ford 05+) from a junkyard a few weeks ago! I have been working on it here and there while I have the time, it's pretty much disassembled now and I just need to finish cutting off the rest of the mounts. I'm so excited to build this axle over the winter, I plan to add high steer, upgraded u joints in the axle shafts, locker, new ring and pinion (4.88 or 5.13), as well as go through all the bearings and seals. Here are some pictures.

 

When you get ready to do the ring/pinion installs on the front and rear, I can help. They can be a bit tricky to get the pattern right, but I'm sure you can do it. Are the same ratios available for both the Ford (front) and the Blazer (rear)? Are you keeping the stock 7.5 or 8.5 rear axle?