1969 K5 Blazer 2wd Conversion/ Restoration
#1
I Just recently bought a 1969 k5 4x4 as a project im planning on doing a frame up restoration.
im trying to remove the body off the frame but someone on here told me to add support to the actual body i was just wondering if someone could help or point me in the right direction
ive only had if for a week so far and ive remove basically everything except the body it self off the frame
im also planing on doing a 4x4 to a 2wd conversion
and upgrading to disc brakes
the red truck is the main one
the other truck is the donor
update pics..............
more pics,...............
im trying to remove the body off the frame but someone on here told me to add support to the actual body i was just wondering if someone could help or point me in the right direction
ive only had if for a week so far and ive remove basically everything except the body it self off the frame
im also planing on doing a 4x4 to a 2wd conversion
and upgrading to disc brakes
the red truck is the main one
the other truck is the donor
update pics..............
more pics,...............
Last edited by swartlkk; 02-26-2010 at 07:52 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT function to add additional information to your post if another member has yet to reply.
#2
Boy that thing's got some rust! Kudos to you for saving this jewel though! Sorry, I have no input as far as the body stuff. Why go from 4x4 to 2x4? Trying to save on gas? If you kept it stock it would be an awesome show worthy truck!
#3
that thing has less rust than my 82.
if your doing a frame up. you might as well take the body off.
check out my build thread if you want to see pics of mine or need ideas.
if your doing a frame up. you might as well take the body off.
check out my build thread if you want to see pics of mine or need ideas.
#4
i agree you really should leave it 4x4, but its def a diamond in the rough cant wat to see it done
#5
Looks like a nice project. If it were my truck, I would leave it as a 4wd. But it's yours, so do what makes you happy!
I would definitely recommend bracing the body up with that much rot in the rockers and floors. Get some 1"x1" thin wall box tubing. Weld braces from the top of the B post (where the door latch post is) of the bed rail up to the top of the dash area on both sides (1). Run another one from the top of the B post down to the kick panel area on both sides (2). Take another and run it from B post to B post welding it to the other horizontal supports (3). Next, run a support from B post on one side down to the kick panel on the other side (4), again welding it just to the previously welded supports. Lastly, from the opposite side as the side to side diagonal support, run a bar from the dash area and weld it to the front edge of the bed down at the base of the B-pillar on the opposite side (5). This will triangulate the door gaps as well as the body to keep everything proper. If you can, put the supports in such that the doors could be installed without removing the supports so you can check your gaps, etc.
See the attached illustration (warning, I suck at paint). I did not draw the windshield frame to cut down on the lines that could potentially confuse matters.
BTW, if you have more than 5 images you would like to share, please do so through any one of the free online photo hosts or by uploading the images to an album of your own on the forum.
I would definitely recommend bracing the body up with that much rot in the rockers and floors. Get some 1"x1" thin wall box tubing. Weld braces from the top of the B post (where the door latch post is) of the bed rail up to the top of the dash area on both sides (1). Run another one from the top of the B post down to the kick panel area on both sides (2). Take another and run it from B post to B post welding it to the other horizontal supports (3). Next, run a support from B post on one side down to the kick panel on the other side (4), again welding it just to the previously welded supports. Lastly, from the opposite side as the side to side diagonal support, run a bar from the dash area and weld it to the front edge of the bed down at the base of the B-pillar on the opposite side (5). This will triangulate the door gaps as well as the body to keep everything proper. If you can, put the supports in such that the doors could be installed without removing the supports so you can check your gaps, etc.
See the attached illustration (warning, I suck at paint). I did not draw the windshield frame to cut down on the lines that could potentially confuse matters.
BTW, if you have more than 5 images you would like to share, please do so through any one of the free online photo hosts or by uploading the images to an album of your own on the forum.
#6
thats a pretty good diagram kyle
i would also suggest if you could get your hands on a roll bar or make your own using that to brace the body in the rear of the truck.
i would also suggest if you could get your hands on a roll bar or make your own using that to brace the body in the rear of the truck.
#7
You don't have to worry too much about the back of the truck, but you could brace it much the same way. A strap across the top and one diagonal. The point of a brace is to keep it out of your way as much as possible. A roll bar would add unnecessary weight to the vehicle overall and really won't support what you need to support which is the bedsides and firewall. That way you could theoretically cut the entire front floor out and the rest of the truck would stay in the proper alignment.
#8
You don't have to worry too much about the back of the truck, but you could brace it much the same way. A strap across the top and one diagonal. The point of a brace is to keep it out of your way as much as possible. A roll bar would add unnecessary weight to the vehicle overall and really won't support what you need to support which is the bedsides and firewall. That way you could theoretically cut the entire front floor out and the rest of the truck would stay in the proper alignment.
unless the back of the truck was bowing out < > , wasn't this a common thing if the top was off alot. i know on mine its like this and i'll have to cross brace it like the diagram you showed above and with the roll bar. i guess it all depends on what shape each truck is in.
#9
I'll repeat myself again... A roll bar won't hold the bed sides in. You would have to do additional bracing to do that. A cage should be mounted to the frame, not the body and definitely not the outer sections of the body.
#10
its hard to explain it,i'll get yah a picture when im all done. but you mount the roll bar to the frame. then use the roll bar to "pull" the sides of the body in > < and would be mounted inside the bed. and additional bracing is required like you said.