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I wasn’t sure how practical it is pulling and installing engine/tranny/tc in one bundle.
I had more trouble dropping the crossmember than anything else ... the pull worked fine.
i decided to bolt the crossmember back up before the install .... so things got tight.
I had to open the tunnel, and it still got hung up on a 1/16 lip of sheet metal, easily bent ... but that is tight.
Dinged the firewall a bit but the heart of the beast is bolted in.
Flipping the new engine mount bushing around in the correct orientation helps a lot, duh.
Well its a new small block and TH350, and I'm taking a chance with the existing NP203.
So bolt for bolt its a swap.
There wasn't any wiggle room on the taller valve covers though.
I don't think I'd ever try to pull all 3 without the front end stripped down.
Generic 22 Circuit kit from Speedway .... seems simple enough. Just don't throw away your wires from temp control unit to the blower / compressor / etc., cause they ain't here, only the power to the control panel.
Dakota Digital instrument panel. Comes with sensors, so those wires from the 22 Circuit kit will go unused.
Not sure how this aftermarket steering column is supposed to attach .... the wiring connections are fine, but the hardware ain't plug and play.
Fun with fittings on aftermarket intake ... Still trying to find a vacuum fitting that will clear the back of the carb.
A 3/4" aluminum angle bar across the fan shroud made the radiator install pretty clean and solid.
Just in case someone else is wondering about vacuum control ....
Bought a new control panel .... didn't realize that some of the control switch connectors were busted off .... $200+ NOS parts are all that seem available so a little epoxy repair is in progress.
I think I have a leak in the vacuum supply line ... so not sure if the glue worked yet.
In the meantime ..... here are the port assignments .... a hand operated Performance Tool Brake Bleeder Vacuum Pump had all the right attachments to connect to each line on the vacuum plug for simple testing.
1,2,7,8,10 are blocked in the plug.
3 Black, Defrost valve, vacuum = open (second photo)
4, 4a are bridged in the plug
5 Orange stripe, to T-connector to Kickplate (vacuum = open) and cowl actuators
6 Tan stripe, the A/C mode on the middle actuator (vacuum = closes toward firewall, no vacuum returns to midpoint) (third photo)
11 Red stripe, the Heater mode, middle actuator (vacuum = closes away from firewall, no vacuum returns to midpoint)
9, 9A Gray, To T-connector then to vacuum source from the cannister on the firewall
Defrost Test
AC mode test
Last edited by Russtache; 03-20-2019 at 12:19 PM.
Reason: Update: I gave up on the repair, and bought the NOS part from the PartsGuy.
01-01-2019, 11:23 AM
Engine In
