Lol I made it almost all the way across town with no SES light. . then right before I got to my destination it came back. Code 32 again this time.

I broke out the multi-meter again and did a few checks. I have a good 5v reference signal from the computer, so that circuit is fine. . .I need to go back and make sure the computer command is grounding properly, but jumping it sounds like the valve is functioning. . .I can hear it clicking.

I'm thinking my intake passages are clogged up. . I did put a little more seafoam through the brake booster line while jumping the egr valve to open. I don't really notice a big difference with it open vs closed.

Need to pull the valve back off and try to clean more. . .and then look at the plunger to see if it works, one of those should be the culprit

 

I like the zip tied knock-sensor on top of that engine...

LOL

 

Lol, yea not the best solution, but a solution none the less. It's 100% functional, which was my main concern.

 

Yesterday I had to dig in my parts box to look for a piece of pipe with a sleeve I have used fifteen years ago on a holiday trip to bypass my heater core.

Guess what: I need it again.

Another of these fixes.

 

 

Yeah - the core "AGAIN"!

Well I should be able to pull that one in less than 20 minutes. It will be the 3rd time.

My dash is already suitably modified and the right top screw has never gone back in. So it should be 15 minutes to remove all the covers and 5 minutes to remove the two brackets.

This time I'll have to fix that POC (piece of crap) for good. Most probably changing the fittings and routing hoses all the way to the heater core on the inside of the car. I'll have to look into that once it is out.

But that will be next week.

Find my write-up on the heater core here:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...removal-82805/

 

I don't think my heater core is leaking. . no sings of it inside. The core in my Trans Am went bad a few years back, so I'm very familiar with the signs.


Quite possible the core's got a lot of restriction in it. I have yet to truly overheat. . at least according to the gauge, or any normal overheating symptoms. However, I am still suspect of my cooling system. Even though I've flushed 3 times now the rad could also have a lot of build up in it.

Up to about 2,300mi so far since the trans went back in. . . . Not much work on it this past week. I did tint the top of the windshield with some Gila 20% I had laying around. Definitely helps with heat and sun. Came out ok, but I'll prob re-do it at some point. Still trying to re-attach my rear view mirror, and have it stay in place.

Here a pic of the tint mocked up on the outside. . .I didn't factor the curvature into my thinking so I ended up cutting the piece in half, then taking a couple inches out of the middle to match the shorter inside curve.




Still having my intermittent Code 32 issue with the EGR. Usually it starts cold with no SES, then after a while the light comes on. Sometimes it's 5 min, sometimes 15 min. At this point I'm pretty positive the intake manifold passages are clogged up, so just debating whether or not I want to take it all apart right now.

Need to pick up some more carb cleaner spray to try that again. . .Since this EGR issue is so common the intake is going to have to come apart sooner or later.

 

Just ran out and took the EGR valve back off. . . still looked clean. I did spray some more brake kleen into the intake, and I was able to use my compressor to blow through both sides. Seemed like it was partially clogged at first then sounded like it was flowing pretty well after a second.

After starting and letting it warm up I noticed it engage more than I did before. Will have to drive around more to see if it cures the issue.

Another thing I stumbled upon. . like everything else on this car, there are two coolant temp sensors. Lol I just realized there was one on the front of the block, behind the belt tensioner. Fortunately I had a new two wire sensor, so I swapped that out.

 

Rear view mirror glued to windshield.

It will requires a specail glue, either 2-components or an UV hardening. The glass repari shops should have that.
We have tried several over the years but none would withstand for long, except the specially formulated ones.

 

I did use the "special" glue I picked up at advance auto. It didn't have a catalyst. . crazy was like $10 for a tiny vial. It stayed up for like 3 days after I put it back the first time. .including the 800 mi of our trip North.

I probably didn't get 100% of the old stuff off, so I'm sure that contributed. Weird thing is I cleaned it really well the second time. . used the same glue, and it fell back off in about 30 min. So not sure if the glue is bad already. . obviously it's only meant for a single use, but it wasn't solidified in the vial or anything. I guess I should look for a better adhesive per your suggestion.

I did just take the blazer to run to the store. No SES light. Too early to tell though, as that short of a trip only tripped the light about 50% of the time before. Seems to be running better. . .smells like it's running a little less rich. Assuming the new temp sensors helped out with mixture some.