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1994 S10 Blazer Tahoe LT - Revival

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1994 S10 Blazer Tahoe LT - Revival

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  #141  
Old 06-27-2018, 10:52 AM
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Well, just dropped her off at the alignment shop. Should hopefully have it back later on this afternoon. . . I can't wait!
 
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  #142  
Old 06-27-2018, 01:35 PM
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Picked it back up just a bit ago. Much better. Drives quite well now, although they couldn't get it 100% perfect.


Guy told me I could get a new bolt/eccentric set with larger eccentrics from Napa. First I've ever heard of that. Still have about -1 degree of camber on each side, so not too bad, but I'll eventually try to get the new bolts and have it aligned again.


Ended up getting the lifetime alignment since I plan to keep this for a long time. Also looking again, I have the front cranked up higher than the rear so will probably lower that back down a bit at some point.
 
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  #143  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:54 AM
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Just under 1,600 mi road trip complete.

I'm pleased to report the Blazer made the trip without any major break downs or significant issues.

Biggest issue I had was coming home yesterday. Stopped in Valdosta for gas and wasn't able to get the engine restarted. Pretty sure it had just gotten a little hot and needed to cool off, but had a guy offer to jump it after I ran the battery down some. After a few min it started back up.

My temp gauge got up to about 210 briefly on the the way North last week, in traffic. So I swapped out the T-stat for 180 degree unit before I left to come home. Oddly enough it didn't seem to make much of an impact.

Pretty sure the water pump isn't flowing enough, or the radiator is more clogged up than I realized.

Also, should have put in the new Coolant temp sensor before leaving. I doubt the digital gauges are terribly accurate, but I'm pretty sure it got hotter than 200 several times.

Granted I was towing a little fast at 70-80 mph, but only pulling 500 lbs. Need to add up, and average my receipts but ended up getting around 18 MPG on the trip.

Something is definitely pulling my timing advance out at higher rpms. On the way North I had trouble holding 70+ going up hills. Before coming home I ran another half can of seafoam through the intake, and unplugged the EGR valve. That all seemed to help as it was better on the way home. Need to break out the multi-meter and do some checks to see if it's EGR, or if it's possible the ECM needs replaced.

Other feedback is that the front spring rate is a bit stiff with the t-bars cranked a bit high. . . And either wheels are slightly out of balance, or they didn't get the alignment quite right as I have some vibration at 65+
 

Last edited by KnightBlazer; 07-09-2018 at 10:57 AM.
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  #144  
Old 07-11-2018, 04:05 PM
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Well my starting issue that happened on the trip is back. . . Went for a short drive from home to visit a property I'm selling, and it happened again when I tried to leave.

Had a neighbor jump it for me, but I suspect it isn't the battery.

Just went out and tested it with a volt meter, and 12.9v which is good. Starting it blipped to 9.6v for a split second, and running is 14.4v.

I also smelled "hot electrical" when trying to start before, so pretty sure my stater is failing. . . .it's sounded pretty pathetic since i got the car. Just ordered a replacement so hopefully that will solve the issue.

. . in other news I got my new EGR gasket with the screen today. I've read the screen really helps keep it from clogging up, which I believe is the cause of my code 32. So need to swap that in and clean out the EGR. . . right now the Audi is in the garage. Just replaced the window regulator and tint on the rear door. . .Lol nice to have the duct tape off the window.
 
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  #145  
Old 07-12-2018, 03:36 PM
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I think I found my code 32 issue. . . . EGR was packed up with carbon.

Here's the intake after I removed the valve:




Here's the valve after removal. . .The plunger was stuck in, and didn't move at all when I started.




After about 1/2 a can of brake kleen I was able to get it freed up, and cleaned out. I also used a few shop towels and screwdriver/pick to get as much carbon out as I could. . as per my previous post I reinstalled with a new gasket w/screen to help prevent future buildup.

Started it up, SES light disappeared. Idle seems slightly improved, but wasn't bad before. Hopefully will help with the "hot" issues I've been having too, as I was getting an occasional ping on the highway when trying to accelerate. . .I'm sure the EGR stuck full open was a big factor.

I'm afraid to dive it anywhere until I fix the starter issue. . . . it doesn't have a problem when it's cold. . unfortunately new starter won't be here till next week. Will try to get the the water pump replaced while I'm waiting. . . Still need to reinstall the front drive shaft too so I actually have 4 wheel drive lol.
 

Last edited by KnightBlazer; 07-12-2018 at 03:40 PM.
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  #146  
Old 07-16-2018, 10:08 AM
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A little more work done yesterday. . . Spent all day in the garage, cleaning up, uncovering my poor Trans Am, and working on the Blazer.

Pulled the water pump, and Alt off the engine.




Found my Alt connection was a little corroded, so I took a wire wheel to that to clean up.




New vs Old Water Pump




Wasn't leaking yet, but I'm sure it was about there. . plus like I said before, Pretty sure it wasn't pumping efficiently anymore.




I also pulled my new T-stat back out, and drilled a couple holes in it for constant flow. Idk if it will make much of an impact, but I've seen it done before to improve cooling.







Got as far as installing the new pump, but couldn't get the studs out of the old pump, so I need to go pick up a new set of those. . along with a new idler pulley, since the bearing is quite noisy.

Looks like the starter and alt won't be here until Wednesday, so hopefully Wed afternoon or Thursday I'll have it all back together. . .Fingers crossed they will fix the starting issues since I'd rather not spend another like $200 on a new battery right now.
 
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  #147  
Old 07-17-2018, 03:02 PM
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Yay! Ups guy showed up a bit ago with my new starter. . .Just ran out and quickly threw it on, and starts fantastically now. Battery keeps testing good at 12.8-12.9v, so I'm confident to drive it again, and looks like I can put off a new battery a while longer.

I put the old ALT back on for now, but with the new WP and Idler Pulley I got the accessories are much quieter, should have all the bearing noise gone with the new ALT tomorrow.

Still trying to figure out how to get the old CTS out of the block. . once that's done I should have all the repairs complete, and will move on to a few more of my cosmetic improvements.
 
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  #148  
Old 07-18-2018, 03:54 AM
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What would the CTS be?
 
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  #149  
Old 07-18-2018, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by error_401 View Post
What would the CTS be?
Sorry. . .I was getting lazy lol. . . CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I did end up getting it out yesterday evening, after like 3 days of hitting it with Penetrating fluid. Accidentally broke the plastic part off the sensor, but that allowed me to get a shorter socket and my breaker bar on it from the top.

Just kept bumping the bar gently, but with a decent amount of force; eventually it started to come loose. Really didn't want it to snap off in the block like the knock sensor did.
 
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  #150  
Old 07-18-2018, 05:07 PM
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New alternator showed up. Just went out and threw that on. . .

As others have reported with this upgrade:
-Had to elongate the left(inner) bolt hole in the Alt Bracket
-Needed New, longer belt. I used part #K060966 . . I believe for a mid-90s 5.7 c1500. It's about 1.1 in longer (96.6in) than my stock belt.

Installed:




I didn't have any issues with the wiring connections. The plug that was on the bottom of my old alt, is on the top of the new one but it reached the new location without a problem.




Something I don't remember reading from others that have done this, is the interference with the upper radiator hose. It's not terrible. . . but isn't ideal either, hose is pinched slightly. Also don't like the hose sitting on the Alt, transferring more heat.




Not sure there's anything that I can do to reconfigure it. Shouldn't really be an issue, I just don't like that they're fighting for space.

I'm now getting a full 14v+ at idle. .and after a quick drive the battery was holding at 13.10v. My highest reading yet, so seems like it's in good shape.

One of my old issues popped back up after changing the alternator. Code 43 came back. For me that's the Knock sensor. Since I still have the one sensor zip tied to the intake I suspected it wasn't getting grounded well enough. It wasn't throwing the code before, but I guess once the voltage came back it wasn't enough ground.

Until I get around to figuring out how to get the old broken senor out to install it properly I rigged up a ground wire for the sensor. (white wire in the pic)




Not pretty, but seems to have cleared the SES again. . .maybe I'll get to drive it without that stupid light lol.

Lastly, after reading up on JohnCharles sound deadening work, I decided to go out and put some more down myself last night. Pulled back the driver carpet and added as much mat as I could without removing the console and seat. I forgot to take an after picture, but here's before (sorry its poor quality). . . Ended up putting two layers on the wheel well.




Just in the short test drive to the gas station I definitely felt less noise and vibration through the floors.

Running pretty well now. . .Power Steering pump is the last of my serpentine assembly making noise, but unless it goes out it's staying for now. **edit - the new A/C compressor I put on a while back does sound terrible too, so eventually want to do something about that as well.
 

Last edited by KnightBlazer; 07-18-2018 at 05:30 PM.
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