Another update:

Put all new wires on today, as well as cleaned the MAF sensor. Now, the car doesn't shake when idling, it sits still! Also, the misfire has been successfully dealt with! All for under 30$. (Success)

Tomorrow, I'll be getting the alignment done, and finally starting to drive it very consistently. Lastly, the pull apart shop near me has over 50 blazers!! all sitting there. SO I'm excited to head up there to buy the last of the little knick nacks my vehicle needs. Thing will look brand freakin new in no time.


Oh yeah, and I decided to keep the vehicle, and not sell it after winter. I would like to do a swap because of the high miles on the truck. (186k) I was thinking of doing a 350 or a 5.3L vortec. Any comments or suggestions on them is much appreciated! THough, I won't have money or time to build an engine and do a swap until probably may. SUPER excited though. =D

 

Yesterday, i came back to school. Well, in doing so, I have to drive on the highway for about an hour. I was pretty nervous about having to do so though, because before when I'd drive over 50, the front end would... "pull" every 3-4 seconds pretty hard. Well, I was cruising around 70mph the whole way and not a single thing happened. I was pleased to say the least! Well, this Friday, I'll be getting payed. As payday comes so will fixes. The truck still needs to get a Catalytic Converter, as well as the 4x4 figured out and a trans leak. =/ I think my check will cover all of that though. Then with the next check, say hello to a lift! (and a tire carrier, because there's a few really nice ones at a scrapyard near me... )

 

I would not mess with adding a cat unless you need to for emissions purposes. The cat being gone will not effect how it runs at all. The cat on my 2000 was cutout since it was faulty and I turned the codes off with HP Tuners. It ran no different than it did when the cat was in there and still good. On a naturally aspirated motor, the less back pressure the better.

A fun swap would be a 5.3L for sure. The motors in stock form make great power and would be a HUGE improvement over the 4.3L it would replace.

Good luck with the ride!

 

Thanks for the advice! You're the first person to give a firsthand account to having a Cat vs no Cat. I have a pipe in there, but not welded all the way because I didn't drop the pipe down yet, because I was going to put the cat in. I guess not having a cat wouldn't matter, really, because I live in a place with no emissions check. My only concern: The codes my car is throwing is showing an Oxygen sensor that's bad, the cat is bad, and the misfire of course. From what I've read up, without a Cat the vehicle SHOULD be throwing out the oxygen sensor code in addition to the cat code. If I chose to delete the code, would I have to delete the oxygen sensor code as well? or is there a way that I could fix the oxygen sensor (if anything is wrong--assuming it's not just throwing the code because the Cat is out).

Did your Blazer throw the o2 sensor code Longer?

Thanks again!

 

The only code you will get is for the o2 sensor. Mine was rusted into the pipe and I could not get it out for the life of me so I just cut the wires. The downstream o2 only tells you if the cat is bad and there is no SES code for just the cat.

Simply deleting the code will not work. It will pop right back on after a few miles of driving. You need to turn the sensor off in the PCM. I don't think the tuning software I have available to me will tune our 96 and 97 PCM's though. When I had my 2000 it was supported and the PCM could be calibrated/changed. This is something I am going to look into though now that I have a 97 Blazer as eventually I will need my speedometer changed for bigger tires and would like to tune it for more power and MPG.

 

Ahh makes sense. In "deleting" the code, I meant turning it off or whatever lol. And I forget the exact code, but I checked it in the book with the reader, and it says the 02 sensor is bad. The guy at NTB said his cat went bad, and he had a code for the 02 sensor and the cat.. he replaced the cat and both went away.

Also, I have a code for the cat. It's reading that a problem is occuring with it...I'll read it again asap and post exactly what codes are there.

 

The cat going bad will set off the SES light for the o2 as that downstream o2 monitors the cats functionality.

 

Been a few days since I've posted much....but anywho, I have a few questions for you guys out there.

My car currently is misfiring, specifically on cylinder 1. I have replaced the plugs and wires..but to only have the misfire still. Currently, the vehicle shakes pretty badly while idling and getting up to speed, and the gas mileage is garb. When I give it gas, it seems to sit for a moment before the pedal is depressed far enough to make it go. There's an increase in rpms and a louder exhaust note, but the car doesn't move until I get it to like 2200 rpms. I have been researching, and the next thing it seems I should check is my vacuum lines for the engine. I have no 4hi, but still have 4lo, (which I think is vacuum caused), so is it possible that if I fix the vacuum line that both my misfire and the 4hi will be fixed? or is it just coincidence that they're both issues..

Also, what are signs that it's an injector thats faulty?

(I will be getting a very solid paycheck on friday. which is why I ask this now, because I'm looking to work on it over the weekend.)

Also, a few other things--My interior dome light doesn't turn off, so there's no bulb in it. is there just a dome override switch taht I can't find? (I have a 96 LT).
Next, my right turn signal works correctly, but my left doesn't blink, it just stays lit until I complete the turn. I was looking to get that fixed, but I'm guessing it's somethign small. Oh yeah, it will work when it's around 50 degrees or higher outside, if it's less than that, it doesn't work.

Lastly, when my lights are off, and my key is in the ignition (but not turned on), when I press the brake pedal the dash lights up and it beeps at me (the same beep it makes when you leave the lights on with the car off). I was just wondering if it should be doing that?


Thanks guys, any and all help will be VERY much appreciated.

Happy gearing, and God bless!

 

Just redid all of the vacuum lines on the blazer, thinking that would make 4x4 work, because there was a HUGE hole in 2 of the lines...Nope........

Now for the switch on the transfer case. the last possible thing I can do before it's the transfer case it's self =(

Anywho, I got paid, and I'll be getting paid again soon. I've narrowed the misfire down to a faulty injector, so when I get paid I'll be getting that fixed. THen the actual build will begin...starting with 2" shackles and a tbar crank, as well as a 2"BL at the same time, then tires!

 

Ugh.......I drive it like 20 miles, and it's smoking ridiculously! Found a nice 3" gash on the upper radiator hose.......

Took me 2 and a half hours to get home....20 miles. Gonna fix her up tomorrow.




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