1996 GMC Jimmy 350 swap
#21
hold up brah. ive done this 3 times. all swaps over. find you a 84-85 s10 truck 86+ doesnt have the right valve. engine size doesnt matter.
you will need :
the 2 small master cylinder lines
valve (must be the brass one,if its aluminum it wont "bolt in" with the lines)
the lines from the valve down the the coupling in the center of the front cross member. it'll be on the back side of it
the line from the valve to the driver side hose.
the line from the rear of the valve to the coupling on top of the frame. its right behind the edge of the inner wheel well. right side. its a pita to get too but its doable.
This ALL bolts right in. at least on the 1st gens. I wanna say it should on the 2nd gen as long as you have the coupling on the center member,and the coupling against the top of the frame on driver side at the corner of the wheel well.
you will need :
the 2 small master cylinder lines
valve (must be the brass one,if its aluminum it wont "bolt in" with the lines)
the lines from the valve down the the coupling in the center of the front cross member. it'll be on the back side of it
the line from the valve to the driver side hose.
the line from the rear of the valve to the coupling on top of the frame. its right behind the edge of the inner wheel well. right side. its a pita to get too but its doable.
This ALL bolts right in. at least on the 1st gens. I wanna say it should on the 2nd gen as long as you have the coupling on the center member,and the coupling against the top of the frame on driver side at the corner of the wheel well.
#22
All true Chris, on most Blazers/Jimmys. BUT, his is a '96, it runs a different ABS system, and it has a separate combination valve. It's a matter of simply re-routing the lines, bypassing the ABS module and using the stock combination valve.
#23
but you should still beable to rip all that out,and do away with all of it. As long as the 3 connecting points for the lines are the same on the frame it'll swap over.
the t in the center of the x member,and coupling on the driverside frame.
the t in the center of the x member,and coupling on the driverside frame.
#24
Here we go, coolant is holding a good temp with my 2 pusher fans (around 180-185). However i do need a new water pump as this one is leaking :-( but it's not a big deal. Also the throttle is rigged up and can only give it half throttle till i fix it permanently.
#25
^^ LOL yeeeeehawww!
You may have mentioned it in the thread but what fans are you using?
You may have mentioned it in the thread but what fans are you using?
#26
2 12inch push/puller fans i bought off ebay. I have them set up as pushers, it is important to note that I had to flip the blades over, if i didnt it wouldn't pull near as much air. All with a factory 4.3 radiator (using the trans cooler as well). With the factory 350 truck motor water pump. I need to go write down the part numbers on those rad hoses for future reference
#27
is it one of those 50.00 combos etc? I had looked at em at one time. didnt know if theyd work. Do you have ac?
#28
they were about $55 total, they seem to work good. No I dont have ac. I'm also trying to find out why my blower fan (for the inside) doesn't work anymore. I can hear the blend door still function but the fan wont kick on. That wasn't ran through the computer was it?
#29
while i was out today at the yard(gio when u read this,its not the yard that has the stuff you need lol) I took a look at the brake lines and how they run on a 01 s10. it had the coupling on the frame,and on the crossmember the same as my 91 and 93. so for my brake thing i posted,it still works on a 01. so yours should too.
#30
Well, after a few donuts and a road test i have established the "rebuilt" 700r4 i bought for the truck has no 3rd and 4th gear. Anybody familiar with the 700r4 knows what that means... maybe a donut vid soon. This is why I cant have anything nice