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1997 blazer sas solid axle swap

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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 01:33 AM
  #71  
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Well done!!
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:13 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by xillzxnickx
im talking about when you have the carrier out the bearings are still on it how do I remove without damaging anything. guy at work told me to just heat them up with the torch and they will pop off
at work we actually have the proper tools to do it. we have a bearing removal tool which is basically like this big wedge that tightens down between the bearing and the carrier then you put that under the press so the carrier is hanging down and press it out. and the new ones will have to be pressed on

so as far as a home remedy for this problem im not really sure. you can try using a cut off wheel which ive done for axle shaft bearings that got seized but you always risk jacking up the surface under the bearing. call some local shops see what they will charge to swap them out
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 02:25 PM
  #73  
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I ended up bring the new ring and pinion and install kit to a friend of my boss and he set it up he's done many and does a lot of custom fab
 

Last edited by xillzxnickx; Sep 16, 2013 at 02:28 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 07:25 PM
  #74  
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Looking good man! I'm interested to see what your steering angles look like. I may have missed it but are you planing on keeping the stock box?
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:55 PM
  #75  
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Never covered it im getting a astro van pitman arm tomorrow and I messed up one of the tie rod ends so I need to re tap it ..... Today I re hooked up the exhaust and connected the blazer and bleed them but ran out of fluid

So all I have left is the steering pitman arm and stuff

Plus I have to trim more out of the upper control arm mount to mount my shock
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:56 PM
  #76  
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Yes I'm planning on keeping factory steering box never answered your question lol
 
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #77  
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i used the astro van box and pitman arm. the pitman arm hole for the tie rod end was really small i had to have it reamed out at a machine shop
 
Old Sep 17, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #78  
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Yea I just found that out today

We had a tapered reamer at work but at its biggest point it is 1/2 and I need at the bigger side of the taper 3/4 so I have to buy one
 
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 10:30 AM
  #79  
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Make sure you get the correct taper for the reamer. I've heard of guys getting an ironworkers reamer and calling it close enough(which of course it isn't)
 
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 07:44 PM
  #80  
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Make sure you get the correct taper for the reamer. I've heard of guys getting an ironworkers reamer and calling it close enough(which of course it isn't)
what could go wrong if its taped and the nut is on and coder pin is through ?

I reamed it have all steering hooked and the god dam pitman arm hits well the bolt going through the pitman arm hits the engine mount on the frame side going to have to torch it alittle cant drive it down to the shop I work at
 



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