AMAZING!! Thanks for the share!!

 

Hi friends. Back again with funds. the blazer as been on the road for a year. had lots of fun, got lots or comments and looks. Tomorrow will bring Missouri inspection which means the 8v swap is upon us. Would like some assistance with you GM guys out there. I have a 1997 Tahoe 383 (350) ready to install. I am looking for recommendations for a GM transfercase that can withstand 500hp (same torque) compatible to a 6 peed transmission (Tremec or simular). I'm getting the Holley dual sniper EFI and want to replace the rear axle, including a 4 point suspension in the rear. Will the stock front diff take 500 hp? and if not, what would you use in its place. I plan on doing a front suspension hoop with coilover still utilizing the stock torsion bar. My plan is to extend the upper and lower control arms (by modification) and adding a UTV coilover to add to the capacity. these are widely available (stock replacements pull offs) and are smaller as the space is limited. I currently have lots of bounce with the stock engine 4.3 with the lengthened front end, winch and custom bumper.

Change my mind... Go.

 

Sorry- full explanation. I plan to get the truck inspected and then swap the v8 and suspension soon after. I will have two years of "freedom" from inspections. I am in no way saying this will be unsafe and I will comply with all of "way to go Brandon's" environmental requirements. Disclaimer: When finished, will comply with all requirements, environmental, smog and safety.

I will need to weld a custom header and exhaust, collector and blank cat with electronic dump. it will sound amazing when I what, while having the look of compiling to grandpa Joe. What is the final gears you would run with a 6 speed double OD? tire size will be a smidge larger than what I am running now ( 31 10.50 15). I can go a couple sizes bigger in the rear with no issues but the front currently rubs. I might move the front drive forward to accept 33's or larger. I want large profile tires in the rear (shorter rear axle) while still having a off road appearance. Please stick with me here. Those who are saying " dude is nuts" need not respond. I have taken all the past responses to heart with this build and really do appreciate the constructive responses. I have been luck to be able to go through a divorce and still pursue a dream that many have not been able to. I have performed all of the work this far solely, on a somewhat limited budget. Thanks for your direction comments. I will credit where appropriate! This really is an open book.

Many Thanks
j

 

For axles, front and rear, see if you can find a set from a Jeep Rubicon. D44's, 4.10 gears, electric lockers, right width, driver side drop, and can handle the power of the 383. I haven't priced them lately, but they can be a bit pricey. As far as dropping a V8 in an S-10, you can do it with a different oil pan or modify the pan you have. Of course headers are needed. The aftermarket has kits available to do the swap.

As for the transfer cases, I'd look for a older 205 with the gear drives. They are plentiful and pretty cheap and can handle the power no problem. You will need to use an adapter to mate up your transmission, so make sure someone makes that adapter before you choose your tcase and tranny, regardless of what combo you choose.

 

AJ- thanks for the info. I have decided to do the Holley sniper Dual EFI conversion with my 383. I will do some type of IFS coil over to help the front sustention bounce for next year. then will be the front and rear axle upgrade. It is real tight with the headers so I will get a universal kit a tig everything. That way I can do dual exhaust with electric dumps. I'm keeping the NV3500, transfer case and axles for now.

Ordering off of Holley website soon. Will post pics.

I have looked at the 205s and the full sized MP3023 (still chain) for futuret-cases. Also considering converting to AWD (less moving parts) but no low gears.

 

 

NICE!!! Looking bad ***!!!

Can you take a couple more pics of your front suspension setup? Wouldn't mind seeing a little more details on that...

 

Hey Don- I sure can. I will take some pics when done. I got the strut tower on summit. RTE-BR1059 I used the budget friendly Summit coilovers SUM-G773501 with 150# springs SUM-72-12-150. I left the torsion bars in and am supplementing them with the additional 300 # rated coilovers. If you remember, I had a bad bounce with the 4.3 was in it last year due to all the weight added to the front. And now it has even more weight with the 383. The torsion bars are great when designed for a specific weight. the coilovers are two way adjustable which will help with the control up front. The bottom of the strut is attached to the top control arm which is not idea but I am not using them as the single spring. The majority will be handled by the factory installed torsion bar. the past set up destroyed the front tires. I'm hoping I will be able to dial it in when I bring it our in the spring. I still have more welding to do as well. the top of the towers will stick out slightly on the inner fenders. My set up includes a 2 3/4" body lift. I might look at connecting the towers to the roll cage and each other late on. I do currently have the high lift torsion keys at the lowest capacity. I might put the factory height keys in and crank down on the coilovers if things are still not controlled the way that I want them. I do not want to eliminate the torsion bars all together due to the coilover mounting to the top control arm.

 

Things I've learned... you can run a 2.5" dual exhaust above the skid plates with cutouts and still exit before the rear tires. The type of lift requires some relief cuts in the lower control arms (tie rod hits when turning). I have not done this yet. The Hedmen headers and were awesome and basically painless. Everything I read about 8v conversion in to a 4x4 said it was a nightmare. Not true if you have a body lift and the correct parts.

 

Things I've learned... you can run a 2.5" dual exhaust above the skid plates with cutouts and still exit before the rear tires. The type of lift requires some relief cuts in the lower control arms (tie rod hits when turning). The lower control arms were aftermarket so it might be from the differences causing the clearance issue. I have not done this yet. The Hedmen headers and were awesome and basically painless. Everything I read about 8v conversion in to a 4x4 said it was a nightmare. Not true if you have a body lift and the correct parts. I did lower the aftermarket bump stop to limit the cv axle angles so when spirited driving with the big motor won't send parts flying. I also discovered all 2 door v6 manuals came with beefier 8.5 rear Posi (limited slip G80). Similar to the ZR2 but without the disk brakes. I might just save some $$$ and build off the factory rear axel. That might be next year tho along with the 3 link and coilovers.