2000 Blazer 4wd
#1
10-11-2012, 07:41 PM
2000 Blazer 4wd
Well I'm 21 with no credit and needed a winter vehicle/4x4 for these gravel roads got this 00 blazer for 3800 with 0% interest and 200 a month.. around my area they go for this much and anything cheaper is in worse shape and a lot more miles (I'm about to hit 139k) so all in all I don't think it's too bad
current issues
4x4 doesn't work - the actuator was busted open so I replaced but still no 4wd there was a bit of trash in the tip of the line that connects to the actuator so I think I'll replace that next. Transfer can clearly be heard engaging.
fan only blows on 4 - picked up a resister and soon to be installed
door sags - picked up the kits to replace the drivers side first the passenger sags a little but that can wait until the other stuff is done.
passenger mirror is broke - will be replacing soon
other than this the frontend seems a little loose.. it's tight and normal when turning left but there is a little slop when the wheel goes to the right..
runs and drives great... plan to fix it up and do some extras to it if it treats me back decently
#3
10-12-2012, 10:50 AM
yeah but at least it's cheap and easy. Better than my VW's... can't replace a single bolt for under $100 and without dropping the engine (ok so that's an exaggeration but you get what I mean)
replaced the 4x4 actuator with no luck and now I'm second guessing myself... I'll have someone look at it but I think I'll see a posi-lock in the future 83-03 Chevy GMC S10 S15 Pickup Blazer 4x4 Posi-Lok psl500 - psl500 I'm surprised I've not already read a lot of people having these. I guess I'll do some digging.
replaced the 4x4 actuator with no luck and now I'm second guessing myself... I'll have someone look at it but I think I'll see a posi-lock in the future 83-03 Chevy GMC S10 S15 Pickup Blazer 4x4 Posi-Lok psl500 - psl500 I'm surprised I've not already read a lot of people having these. I guess I'll do some digging.
#4
10-17-2012, 08:44 AM
I decided not to even mess with the vacuum system so I ripped the new actuator off and returned it.
my truck is running at about 160 degrees and I have a slight gurgle in the dash area (heatercore) I picked up a new thermostat but then realized I'm a little low on coolant *Not sure how low engine is ice cold but the coolant tank is empty I'll take it for a quick spin to warm it up and see) so think either the thermostat or low coolant is my heat issue (it gets warm but not hot like most cars I'll top it off or swap thermostat before flushing)
I replaced the resistor so now my blower works 1-4 again... BUT when I put the temp on the heat side it hardly blows from the vents?? (I read blend door somewhere but have not seen any other info.. so I'll look into this)
... well right now not much else is going on door pins are going in tuesday and I'll be having the steering looked at shortly since it has some play to the right
my truck is running at about 160 degrees and I have a slight gurgle in the dash area (heatercore) I picked up a new thermostat but then realized I'm a little low on coolant *Not sure how low engine is ice cold but the coolant tank is empty I'll take it for a quick spin to warm it up and see) so think either the thermostat or low coolant is my heat issue (it gets warm but not hot like most cars I'll top it off or swap thermostat before flushing)
I replaced the resistor so now my blower works 1-4 again... BUT when I put the temp on the heat side it hardly blows from the vents?? (I read blend door somewhere but have not seen any other info.. so I'll look into this)
... well right now not much else is going on door pins are going in tuesday and I'll be having the steering looked at shortly since it has some play to the right
#6
10-17-2012, 10:54 AM
You don't have to buy a kit to convert to posi lock. There is an article in the DIY section and I know rexmburns did it aswell.
For you coolant issues it sounds like it may be a bad thermostate and needs burped to get the air out. You can park the passenger side on a hill to get it up higher and let it run with the cap off. That usually works for burping the system.
For you coolant issues it sounds like it may be a bad thermostate and needs burped to get the air out. You can park the passenger side on a hill to get it up higher and let it run with the cap off. That usually works for burping the system.
#7
10-17-2012, 11:18 AM
Looks like you have a nice base to start with. Yeah I wouldn't spend the money on the entire posi lock kit! I spent around $40 on mine and it works flawlessly everytime! Plus if I ever decided to I can return mine to the stock configuration not that I ever will! If you check out my build thread I have a bunch of pics an details about it in there. I will also be glad to help with any questions you might have. Either here my thread or pm whatever you want if you want lol.
As for the coolant system I would pull the tstat and put it back together without one and then flush the system that way. It prevents the tstat from blocking anything and also ensures that all pathways are open for the flush. I also just read another awesome tip that was to put some CLR in your system with water and let it run for 15-20 with the heat on hi. I have not tried this but I bet it works like a champ. Make sure you back flush everything you can and don't forget to clean out the coolant tank. Put the new tstat in and fill it up as full as you can and make sure the pass side is elevated like 50 said. Leave the rad cap off start the truck again with the heat on and and then be ready to add more coolant. This is the easiest way to get the air out of the sytem. Good luck!
As for the coolant system I would pull the tstat and put it back together without one and then flush the system that way. It prevents the tstat from blocking anything and also ensures that all pathways are open for the flush. I also just read another awesome tip that was to put some CLR in your system with water and let it run for 15-20 with the heat on hi. I have not tried this but I bet it works like a champ. Make sure you back flush everything you can and don't forget to clean out the coolant tank. Put the new tstat in and fill it up as full as you can and make sure the pass side is elevated like 50 said. Leave the rad cap off start the truck again with the heat on and and then be ready to add more coolant. This is the easiest way to get the air out of the sytem. Good luck!
Last edited by rexmburns; 10-17-2012 at 11:24 AM.
#8
10-17-2012, 12:13 PM
Thanks guys yeah I saw the DIY posilock but I'm not the greatest at custom stuff. I'm having enough trouble learning to fix simple things without breaking something
(I guess I get too impatient and break something lol I'm used to my VW's so the simplicity of these actually messes with me)
I've actually been seeing a lot of your older posts. I plan to go with some black wheels similar to the ones you have.
A friend of mine actually mentioned the CLR thing to me yesterday. I need to go heat it up to just make sure it's not low first. The thought of low coolant really terrifies me, but the oil looks fine and it runs PERFECT so I think if it's low it just has a small leak and not in the engine.
also it's getting 18mpg
... now maybe I can stay above 15 with some 31" tires
going to look more at your posts I somewhat want to halfway copy you (it's stuff I wanted before seeing your's so it's not intentional to just copy it lol)
roof rack I want but mpg loss idk if I can handle it
I wish I could shave off the chrome/side moldings or at least black them out
I want an lsd and winch as well as smoked/black lights front and back... with some excellent off road lighting
(I guess I get too impatient and break something lol I'm used to my VW's so the simplicity of these actually messes with me)
Looks like you have a nice base to start with. Yeah I wouldn't spend the money on the entire posi lock kit! I spent around $40 on mine and it works flawlessly everytime! Plus if I ever decided to I can return mine to the stock configuration not that I ever will! If you check out my build thread I have a bunch of pics an details about it in there. I will also be glad to help with any questions you might have. Either here my thread or pm whatever you want if you want lol.
As for the coolant system I would pull the tstat and put it back together without one and then flush the system that way. It prevents the tstat from blocking anything and also ensures that all pathways are open for the flush. I also just read another awesome tip that was to put some CLR in your system with water and let it run for 15-20 with the heat on hi. I have not tried this but I bet it works like a champ. Make sure you back flush everything you can and don't forget to clean out the coolant tank. Put the new tstat in and fill it up as full as you can and make sure the pass side is elevated like 50 said. Leave the rad cap off start the truck again with the heat on and and then be ready to add more coolant. This is the easiest way to get the air out of the sytem. Good luck!
As for the coolant system I would pull the tstat and put it back together without one and then flush the system that way. It prevents the tstat from blocking anything and also ensures that all pathways are open for the flush. I also just read another awesome tip that was to put some CLR in your system with water and let it run for 15-20 with the heat on hi. I have not tried this but I bet it works like a champ. Make sure you back flush everything you can and don't forget to clean out the coolant tank. Put the new tstat in and fill it up as full as you can and make sure the pass side is elevated like 50 said. Leave the rad cap off start the truck again with the heat on and and then be ready to add more coolant. This is the easiest way to get the air out of the sytem. Good luck!
A friend of mine actually mentioned the CLR thing to me yesterday. I need to go heat it up to just make sure it's not low first. The thought of low coolant really terrifies me, but the oil looks fine and it runs PERFECT so I think if it's low it just has a small leak and not in the engine.
also it's getting 18mpg
... now maybe I can stay above 15 with some 31" tires going to look more at your posts I somewhat want to halfway copy you (it's stuff I wanted before seeing your's so it's not intentional to just copy it lol)
roof rack I want but mpg loss idk if I can handle it
I wish I could shave off the chrome/side moldings or at least black them out
I want an lsd and winch as well as smoked/black lights front and back... with some excellent off road lighting
#9
10-17-2012, 01:53 PM
That side molding on your doors I am pretty sure is just 3m taped in place..I do not believe the have pins drilled into the doors to mount...Just hair dryer them till nice and hot and peel them off slowly...Then of course clean off all the adhesive residue it may leave behind...If you just want the chrome parts out..i think they are just in the dark grey molded pieces sitting in a channel..So you could even just peel the chrome strips out..
To smoke tint your lights there is a product called nightshades comes in a rattle can...i did my tails with it...Just clean the lenses good,light wet sand them..clean again then spray light coat...let that dry..If not dark enough spray another...Just dont go to dark or you wont be able to see your lights through it..After it drys.Get a few good coats of clear over them...good to go..
To smoke tint your lights there is a product called nightshades comes in a rattle can...i did my tails with it...Just clean the lenses good,light wet sand them..clean again then spray light coat...let that dry..If not dark enough spray another...Just dont go to dark or you wont be able to see your lights through it..After it drys.Get a few good coats of clear over them...good to go..
#10
10-18-2012, 09:19 AM
the door molding are only double side taped on i removed mine earlier this spring along with all the other badging.as far as the chrome strips in the molding i think there molded in but not sure id have to check(i kept the molding and badges).