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2000 ZR2 Blazer Refresh

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  #21  
Old 07-30-2020, 10:30 AM
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A small update for now.

I got a lot of parts from UPS and FEDEX and are waiting to be replaced. This weekend I plan on replacing:

- Door Pins on driver door (door sags).
- Door Roller Pin on driver door (won't stay open).
- Add missing door spring (driver side).
- Lower Ball Joints on both sides.
- CV Axle (driver side)

The door pins are going to fun. I plan on building a wooden frame to hold the door while I replace the pins and roller pin. My roller pin didn't come with a C clip so I am going to a mechanic shop and ask them to tack weld the roller pin. Once the welding is complete I will add a replacement door spring. I'll make sure to take pics in case someone is interested in seeing how it works.
 
  #22  
Old 07-30-2020, 10:53 AM
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Looking nice and fresh! Keep un the work.
 
  #23  
Old 07-30-2020, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MacroMachine
A small update for now.

I got a lot of parts from UPS and FEDEX and are waiting to be replaced. This weekend I plan on replacing:

- Door Pins on driver door (door sags).
- Door Roller Pin on driver door (won't stay open).
- Add missing door spring (driver side).
- Lower Ball Joints on both sides.
- CV Axle (driver side)

The door pins are going to fun. I plan on building a wooden frame to hold the door while I replace the pins and roller pin. My roller pin didn't come with a C clip so I am going to a mechanic shop and ask them to tack weld the roller pin. Once the welding is complete I will add a replacement door spring. I'll make sure to take pics in case someone is interested in seeing how it works.
Have you found the special tool for compressing the door spring?

 
  #24  
Old 07-30-2020, 03:22 PM
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Yeah picked it up on amazon for $7 along with a replacement spring for $3. The door pins were about $13 (for both driver and passenger door). I even found the roller pin that holds the spring in place. Mine was cracked and the spring was long gone.
 

Last edited by MacroMachine; 07-30-2020 at 03:24 PM. Reason: More information
  #25  
Old 07-30-2020, 05:26 PM
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Would you mind putting up a link to the roller pin if you can, my moms Jimmy is gone all together, so pins are once a few months lol.
 
  #26  
Old 07-31-2020, 10:03 AM
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Sure thing, just let me make sure it fits perfectly and I will post the part numbers and the place where I found it. I'd hate to put it up and you buy it and it doesn't fit correctly. You can see in the photo where the old one cracked and the spring pushed itself free long ago.

New and Old
 
  #27  
Old 07-31-2020, 11:39 AM
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Thanks, the one on the jimmy, that little roller at the bottom, was bent 90°, making the spring pop off everytime the door closed lol. My dads ready to sell the truck just because of door hinges lol,
 
  #28  
Old 08-04-2020, 03:27 PM
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Here we go:

This weekend I had a lot I planned to do unfortunately due to the heat and discovering I need more parts before I could continue, I focused on the door hingers and the door roller pins. The following below is how I did it. You may need to substitute some parts/tools/steps to suit you.

For this you will need the following parts:

<b>14030534 Front Door Hinge Pin</b> 14030534 Front Door Hinge Pin

<b>20058035 Door Check Roller Pin</b> 20058035 Door Check Roller Pin

<b>20262500 GM Pin</b> 20262500 GM Pin

These will need to be ordered as all separate pieces and put together before you can use it on the door. Check Amazon. I got them off a Chevy Service Parts Department. The storefront name was Findlay Auto. Dpn't worry if Amazon tells you it's not compatible with your Blazer.

For the regular hinge pins, I don’t have a part number just some generic ones off Amazon.

The tools you will need:

Good quality chisel (to break weld on roller pin)

A small hammer (about 6” version)

1/4” Flat Punch (to knock out and push in pins)

Hydraulic Press or small sledge hammer (to assemble roller pin)

Welder (to weld finished roller pin in place)

To assemble to Roller pin you need to put the hinge pin, door check roller and the Pin together. Take you time and check very thoroughly that you don not damage the parts. If you have a hydraulic press you can press it all together. If you don’t use the small sledge hammer to hammer in the pin and get the roller pin assembled. Be very careful you stop before the pin cracks and the before the top mushrooms. Otherwise you will need to grind it flat so it fits back into the top hole.

I find it easier to remove the door. If you are replacing all three parts (roller pin, and two door hind pins) then you can remove the door for easier access. Otherwise you need to hold the door open. Remove the door panel and set aside. My ZR2 has power mirrors and power windows so after I removed the door panel, I disconnected the large cable on the side above the speaker. It’s a matter of pulling the blue clip that surrounds the top of the connection down and you can disconnect the door. (Remember to leave the window rolled down for better mobility when the door is loose. Stuff the disconnected cable into the cavity where it leads from and now you can remove the soft rubber boot that bridges the door and body. Once the boot is removed, I wrapped the cable around the parking brake so it is not hanging in the way. With this disconnected when you remove the pins you can remove the door from the body and set aside.

Knock the door pins up and out of the hinge, keeping track of the orientation the pins and bushing went in. You can always refer to the passenger door for their locations. Now with the help of you someone strong, knock the pins out while they are holding the door. Once it is out, help said person to take the door and set aside where it will not get damaged.

Now you can knock the weld and head off the roller pin. If you use a good quality chisel you can easily knock the head off the pin. An angle grinder works also now that we have access to it. Be very careful of the windshield glass. Once the head is flat/flush with the hinge, take the 1/4” punch and the small hammer and hit it down so the pin falls out of its location. Again, be careful with the windshield it’s very close to where you are working so one wrong hit and you will need a new windshield.

Take a small piece of sandpaper, roll it up and gently sand the holes where the door pins and roller pin fit. Just a little bit to remove the rust and dirt.

Next push the roller pin through the holes until you cannot push it by hand and it holds itself in place. Take your punch and hammer and tap the roller pin until it if flush in the underside of the top part of the hinge. Now break out your welder and tack weld the pin into place. Put a few welds in the top and the bottom part of the hinge. You don’t want this to move at all, once the spring is in place it will exert a lot of force onto the roller pin and you don’t want it to break.

If you don’t have a welder, then you will need to take it to a mechanic or muffler shop that has a welder and have them weld it. But this will be until after you put the hinge pins into place but before you can put the spring into its location.

There are lots of videos on youtube that show you how to add the hinge pins, so I won’t go into detail on that part. Just make sure you pay attention on how the pins and bushings are placed on the hinges. You can see how they are put in on the passenger side, if you forgot.

Roller Pin Removed


Top Access

Pins and Roller Pin Off

Roller Pin Welded, Hinges In.

Pin in, not yet welded.
 

Last edited by MacroMachine; 08-04-2020 at 03:34 PM. Reason: Formatting
  #29  
Old 08-04-2020, 03:32 PM
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There you go! It can be done so don't worry about not being able to do it yourself. Feel free to add that post to one of your FAQ posts asking about roller pins.
 
  #30  
Old 08-04-2020, 03:39 PM
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That's awesome! Thanks for that little write up! It's been bookmarked! Lol
 


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