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'93 blazer meets old school

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Old 08-16-2013, 08:00 PM
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Default '93 blazer meets old school

So, I picked up a 1993 Blazer a few months back knowing the mechanics of it will need work. The original plan was to do a basic rebuild on the engine and transmission....but it morphed into a custom off the chassis rebuild/custom mod.

As it stands, I have 90% of the interior taken out. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will get the rest done and lift the body off. The frame will be blasted and coated with POR-15, then put the body back on. This is where the fun starts.

Original parts being trashed:
fuel injection
a/c unit
wiring harness
dashboard
transmission
anything electronic

Replaced with:
carburetor & mechanical fuel pump
maradyne heater/defroster
rewire everything to an under the hood fuse/relay box from a 98 jeep Cherokee
fabricated metal dash
700R4 transmission

That is a very short and broad stroke of the game plan. As far as the wiring, i am shooting for it to resemble the simplicity of something from the 1950's. No, it is not "emp proofing my car"....simply put, I am tired of dealing with electrical/electronic issues in new vehicles. I am trying to go as mechanical/non-electric as possible.

Well, more to follow soon!!
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:38 PM
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Sounds like fun to me. While I appreciate the sophistication and efficiency of computer controlled systems, I like the concept of my daily driver being simple enough to repair with a bag of tools you keep under the seat. I'm slowly working back to that goal. LOL

What kind of carb are you planning to run?
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:44 PM
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sounds good I had a 95 with a 4.3 that I bought and it had a 4 barrel carb on it some of the wiring, like for the sensor were just cut and connected. basic you just need a standalone harness power to dist cap , alt to fuse box, and some other somethings.
my 4.3 had a quadrajet carb with I liked a lot cause if im right its a 2 barrel and when vacuum drops under load it opens secondary for a 4 barrel
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 10:48 PM
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now don't know if this is true but I had a 700r4 in that same car and never had the neutral or reverse switch hooked up never looked into it but It can stop somethings from working like the reverse lights for inspection and also my rear hatch would never open because it never knew it was in park so I had to pushe brake down to open it
 
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by xillzxnickx View Post
sounds good I had a 95 with a 4.3 that I bought and it had a 4 barrel carb on it some of the wiring, like for the sensor were just cut and connected. basic you just need a standalone harness power to dist cap , alt to fuse box, and some other somethings.
my 4.3 had a quadrajet carb with I liked a lot cause if im right its a 2 barrel and when vacuum drops under load it opens secondary for a 4 barrel
I'm a big fan of q-jets for that reason. They're also asymmetric primaries and secondaries, so the primary venturi are only 20-40% of total cfm. You can jet them a little lean and mess with your timing to get some decent mileage.

You can also get them in 950cfm models. LOL
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 07:21 AM
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950cfm is a extra 100 hp. LOL. and fouled plugs.


Keep in mind,alot of manifold swaps on these balanced shaft engines have clearance issues with the balance shaft. People had grinded em down,or they have removed them completely and replaced the holes with freeze plugs.
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:23 AM
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I think hes planning to go to a 350, but even still I agree, 950cfm is waaaay overkill for most small block engines IMO. If you had a long enough cam duration to really use one you'd have NO vaccum to run anything and have to switch to a hydro brake boost.
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Crackers View Post
What kind of carb are you planning to run?
I have been looking at the Edelbrock Performer 1406 carb with a cold air intake on the 350 that is already in it. I have a list of ideas on what to do with the engine, but I am far from that point in the project.

For what I have on hand to work with, what time I have available to mess with it, and what funds will allow in stages...once the frame is repainted and the body is back on, I will be working on it from the rear forward. The decision behind this is the wiring I will be doing. With the wires that are in the rear of the vehicle, not to mention from the roof, i rather run the furthest wires to where the fuse box will be.

Now, as far as the roof, for the flood/spot lights, this was my thought on connecting them:

With the 4 pin connector, I have 2 pins for positive and 2 for ground for 2 sets of lights. This will remove the need for having the wires go through the door jam, I can disconnect them without disturbing the wiring if i need to, and it will be a weatherproof seal between the roof and inside the cab.

Well, got the factory heater/AC unit out today and a fair amount of the trim. Few more things to go and the interior will be fully empty. Has anyone had issues trying to get the interior bolts out because of the gray putty-like substance??? That stuff is a pain in the butt!!!!!

Well, there is still daylight I could be using to keep working, so back to gutting the inside I go!!
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:21 PM
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I like the idea of going back to simple with a carb, but where do you live that it's legal to do that? Or will this just be an off road toy, so you don't have to worry about vehicle inspection? Around here anything less than 25 years old has to pass emissions.

I would love to ditch all the electronics on my '95, but I wouldn't be able to get the thing inspected.
 
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:42 PM
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Where I live, the carb will not be an issue for inspection.

The mailman brought this to me today:


Just like the connector for the roof lights, this is a drill through cb antenna mount. Drilling through the roof, install the weatherproof antenna base, and run the wires through the body. The antenna and spring can be kept in the cargo area and the black cap is screwed onto the base when the cb is not in use. I am going to have to get the cargo basket sometime soon so I can mount that and figure out where i need to drill the holes out on the roof.
 
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