BDS 5" Envoy lift
#91
not sure if the rear sway bar will attach to the zr2 rear, the axle has the tabs that the sway bar bracket aligns to welded to the front instead of the rear of the axle, i may be able to remove them and reweld in the correct position
#92
that sounds like a good price compared to what i see around here.
sorry gonna hi-jack a little.
diata...did you ever have issues with the front driveshaft ripping boots at the transcase end? my stock one tore itself up after 6 months or so of lifting...guessing the mileage had alot to do with that. but i noticed the new one i put on, the clamp holding the boot on the shaft has slipped back slightly. i have read that that connection can be converted to a u-joint instead of the cv joint design. i may look at that if it is a problem that returns.
just lookin for exp in this ....and maybe a heads up to oakie...
sorry gonna hi-jack a little.
diata...did you ever have issues with the front driveshaft ripping boots at the transcase end? my stock one tore itself up after 6 months or so of lifting...guessing the mileage had alot to do with that. but i noticed the new one i put on, the clamp holding the boot on the shaft has slipped back slightly. i have read that that connection can be converted to a u-joint instead of the cv joint design. i may look at that if it is a problem that returns.
just lookin for exp in this ....and maybe a heads up to oakie...
I installed a front output shaft and seal out of an older NP231C(1994) into my case when I did the SAS so I had the option to install a standard GM 3R u-joint, Toyota flange(one I used), a spicer CV, or a standard spicer yoke(spicer parts can be pulled from a Jeep NP231). I would suggest a Spicer CV as the easiest option to find junk-yard parts.
#93
Hopefully someone who has done the ZR2 axle swap will chime in and let us know for sure.
#94
.....seal out of an older NP231C(1994) into my case when I did the SAS so I had the option to install a standard GM 3R u-joint, Toyota flange(one I used), a spicer CV, or a standard spicer yoke(spicer parts can be pulled from a Jeep NP231). I would suggest a Spicer CV as the easiest option to find junk-yard parts.
#95
I was surprised how easy it was, I found this as a guideline, and tore apart the doner 231 before the one in my Blazer to get a feel for the job. I was done in about 45 mins working with the TC still in the Blazer. I didn't remove the rear case sections completely I just slid them down the output shaft until they hit the torsion bar x-member and was able to pull the chain and sprockets back far enough to allow the front output shaft sprocket to disengage the chain and be removed. The front output seal needs to be replaced with a new one for a '94 S10/Blazer or Jeep Cherokee(same seal). From there the TC gets reassembled with the doner front output shaft from a 93-94 Blazer(I'm sure there are others, but these are a sure fit)
If I made it sound complicated, it really isn't. If you want to dig into a TC, this is a great starter one, it's sooo simple inside. I have my old shaft/sprocket I can measure if there are any questions about the sprocket size, I know it was a question I couldn't find the answer to when I went looking.
If I made it sound complicated, it really isn't. If you want to dig into a TC, this is a great starter one, it's sooo simple inside. I have my old shaft/sprocket I can measure if there are any questions about the sprocket size, I know it was a question I couldn't find the answer to when I went looking.
#96
from what i have noticed on the axle tubes is that they are larger but only about 12" before they inter the center housing, they appear the same diamiter from that point on out to the brake flange, also the zr2 sway bar mounts to the front of the axle and ours mounts to the rear
#97
removed the parking brake cables, getting ready to ship them to Michigan and have a longer set made, also had the front re aligned again
#98
just a update, i dropped off the Envoy at Green Motorsports, here in Springfield Va, great bunch of guys, they gave me a call around 10am
and informed me that the rear diff angles are not close enough, thats what is causing the start to 10mph vibration, the tech suggested that i remove the shims i installed, he even let me take the angle guage home with me to verify the angles, so i returned home and removed the rear
U bolts bla,bla bla, and then removed both shims,one was factory and one i installed, reconnected everything, and out for a road test, what a vast improvement, just a ever so slight hardly noticable vibration....
So Diaita, you were right on the money, when you suggested the pinion angle was too high, thanks
So as far as far im concered the rear is complete with the exception of a gear ratio change, i need to save some $$$ for that, that is going to be a while.. thanks every one... i can smile once again
now off to find a mud hole
and informed me that the rear diff angles are not close enough, thats what is causing the start to 10mph vibration, the tech suggested that i remove the shims i installed, he even let me take the angle guage home with me to verify the angles, so i returned home and removed the rear
U bolts bla,bla bla, and then removed both shims,one was factory and one i installed, reconnected everything, and out for a road test, what a vast improvement, just a ever so slight hardly noticable vibration....
So Diaita, you were right on the money, when you suggested the pinion angle was too high, thanks
So as far as far im concered the rear is complete with the exception of a gear ratio change, i need to save some $$$ for that, that is going to be a while.. thanks every one... i can smile once again
now off to find a mud hole
#99
I know of one! I went and stalked your truck today to look at the third brake light attachment since mine came this morning
#100
just a update, i dropped off the Envoy at Green Motorsports, here in Springfield Va, great bunch of guys, they gave me a call around 10am
and informed me that the rear diff angles are not close enough, thats what is causing the start to 10mph vibration, the tech suggested that i remove the shims i installed, he even let me take the angle guage home with me to verify the angles, so i returned home and removed the rear
U bolts bla,bla bla, and then removed both shims,one was factory and one i installed, reconnected everything, and out for a road test, what a vast improvement, just a ever so slight hardly noticable vibration....
So Diaita, you were right on the money, when you suggested the pinion angle was too high, thanks
So as far as far im concered the rear is complete with the exception of a gear ratio change, i need to save some $$$ for that, that is going to be a while.. thanks every one... i can smile once again
now off to find a mud hole
and informed me that the rear diff angles are not close enough, thats what is causing the start to 10mph vibration, the tech suggested that i remove the shims i installed, he even let me take the angle guage home with me to verify the angles, so i returned home and removed the rear
U bolts bla,bla bla, and then removed both shims,one was factory and one i installed, reconnected everything, and out for a road test, what a vast improvement, just a ever so slight hardly noticable vibration....
So Diaita, you were right on the money, when you suggested the pinion angle was too high, thanks
So as far as far im concered the rear is complete with the exception of a gear ratio change, i need to save some $$$ for that, that is going to be a while.. thanks every one... i can smile once again
now off to find a mud hole






