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When i replaced mine i did the entire lower assembly, should note the grille does not have to come off to remove the Turn signal housings. Drivers side is new, Passenger side is old,
When i replaced mine i did the entire lower assembly, should note the grille does not have to come off to remove the Turn signal housings....
Well that would have saved me some time! LOL
Looking back I can't imagine how I could have reached in to get the turn signal/fog-light housing out though. Recall that mine had a couple zip ties that took up the space in the slot where the outer plastic snap was located. I don't think I could have taken mine off without taking the grill off to remove those zip ties. I wonder if someone added those later? I was following the instructions in my GM service manual so I did not even consider trying to do this without taking the grill off.
In the end, for me it was probably good I took off the grill. I found where the power steering cooling line was rubbing against something and I was able to add some more friction relief to one of my transmission cooling hoses.
Last edited by christine_208; 12-23-2020 at 11:45 AM.
Looking back I can't imagine how I could have reached in to get the turn signal/fog-light housing out though. Recall that mine had a couple zip ties that took up the space in the slot where the outer plastic snap was located. I don't think I could have taken mine off without taking the grill off to remove those zip ties. I wonder if someone added those later? I was following the instructions in my GM service manual so I did not even consider trying to do this without taking the grill off.
In the end, for me it was probably good I took off the grill. I found where the power steering cooling line was rubbing against something and I was able to add some more friction relief to one of my transmission cooling hoses.
In this case that was a good find with those PS lines, but those zipties you can fish a razor blade down through where the headlights would be and snip them, then push the tabs aside and pull it straight out, my truck did not have those ties in place and most likely not factory. Not "supposed" to do it that way but it worked out well enough, will pull the drivers side housing off mine to get a picture of how later on, there is plenty of room to work in there with the driving lamps out though.
In this case that was a good find with those PS lines, but those zipties you can fish a razor blade down through where the headlights would be and snip them, then push the tabs aside and pull it straight out, my truck did not have those ties in place and most likely not factory. Not "supposed" to do it that way but it worked out well enough, will pull the drivers side housing off mine to get a picture of how later on, there is plenty of room to work in there with the driving lamps out though.
Yes, of course, with the headlights out you could gcouln there.
Christine, haven't seen many posts from you lately. Anything new on your rig?
Not an awful lot going on for my rig at the moment.
Only now am I getting around to addressing some delayed routine maintenance and chasing down why my front door lock wasn't working. (Long story I'll post about later.)
Also on the list of things to be done are addressing noisy rear brakes. I think I got some salt water on them at the launch ramp when I went sailing through the San Juan Islands of WA last month. I'm also looking at installing my 1-ton idler arm upgrade and the external spare tire carrier I picked up a couple years ago.
My boat is the closest one. Picture taken at Fossil Bay on Sucia Island. (You can see me peeking out from under the boom tent. LOL)
So, I've been wanting to address what seems to have been loss of function in my self-leveling shocks that are part of my ZW7 Premium Ride Suspension. I was able to find stock replacements for these shocks at RockAuto. These are Blisteins I believe.
I also wanted to upgrade the extensions for them. I needed the extensions because there are no longer versions of these shocks to go with my mildly lifted suspension. My choice at the time of doing my lift was using the original type of shocks with the matching ZW7 leaf springs or get regular leaf springs off another Blazer so I could use regular longer shocks. Originally I used extenders that mounted at the top but they always seemed a bit flimsy (see below) and mounted vertically so that they were not in line with the shocks that could put a torque on the mounting plate.
What I found was that extenders that attach to the bottom of the shock for 1/2 ton Silverados work: "ReadyLift Suspension 99-15 GM/Chevy 1500 Rear Shock Extension Brackets," (https://www.readylift.com/rear-shock...truck-suv.html) I was able to work out these would work by cross-referencing the physical size of the shocks our Blazers used with those used on the 1500 Silverados. These new ones are much beefier than the old ones I used.
And yes, I'm also working on rebuilding my rear brakes.
New shock installed on the drivers side.
Looking down on the shock extender
Looking forward and outward at the bottom of the drivers side shock.
Closeup of the shock extender on the passenger side. The extenders came with mounting hardware.
Looking up at where the shock attaches to the body. This direct connection is better than the old extenders I had used that were between the top of the shock and the body.
One of the old shocks. I didn't see any leaks on them but I suspect they were original.
The old extender that mounted between the top of the shock and the body of the truck.
Part number for the shock. I came with the mounting hardware for the top and bottom.
12-22-2020, 09:57 AM
LOL
