Giving Jimmy Some Love
 

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OK, where to begin. I've had the 98 Jimmy about 5 years and drove it as purchased. It was clean as could be and only had 83k on it without a scratch inside or out. I was a nice little truck, but it wasn't really mine. Installing new Cat here....
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Unfortunately it became just a daily driver, and got REALLY tired over the last few years. The back end squatted, the front end clunked and the check engine light was never ending..... always something. After a broken hood latch ruined the hood & shattered the windshield on the highway, It was time for a change.

Over the last few months it has received a new windshield, color code matching blazer hood, and new ignition parts from plugs up including distributor. I went through the suspension replacing leaf packs +1, all new shocks, and replaced everything in the front end that moves. Now its sitting back up lick it should. I am contemplating pulling out the +1 and changing the shackles though. I'm not a fan of the stiffness in the back.
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Looking good! That's a clean truck!

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With mechanical issues resolved I turned to cosmetics. The inside is still near perfect so I worked on little details outside. Blacking out the rear badging and getting rid of the off color bumper pads were first on the list. The silver Jimmy and red GMC just didn't flow. I've seen alot of guys using Plasti-Dip for bumbers but I didn't go that route. Transtar 4643 Matte Finish was easy to use, permanent and stays flexible without chipping flaking or peeling. Really good stuff! I'll never have to worry about Peeling-Plasti! I should add that I used plasti-dip as a masking agent on the badging though. Instead of removing the badging, spray it + 2" with plasti dip. Then I peeled the plasti off the badging but left it on the paint. Then just masked out further on top of the remaining plasti. Once the badging was dry, remove tape & plasti from paint. There you have it, tight easy masking of badging!
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Next.... yea you guessed it, those tail light gotta go! And Franken-Jimmy was coming to life!
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Next week will be new wheels and tires and I'll start getting the gray off the front end and go black with it too. It was dubbed Franken-Jimmy by a co-worker because it doesn't even look like the same truck. I'll put some pics up as it progresses now that I figured out how!

Thanks cleburne red.... I think I'm addicted! LOL

So, what's the plans after the cosmetics are done?

I plan to also get rid of the rust on the frame rails that can be seen. The underbody on this is in incredible condition to be 21 years on. After that probably exhaust, after that I don't know..... ideas would be great! I'd like to upgrade the tunes but not putting in a sound system that's worth more than KBB of the vehicle either..... LOL

Very nice and clean jimmy... I agree with the add a leaf stiffness... been humming and hawing about take mine out... but as a dd, no time for that at the moment...

I think I can pull them in around 4 hours without air. They haven't been on too long and PB is my new best friend. Worth its weight in gold! I need to get this leveled out a bit anyway. Torsion moved up on me almost a full inch after my alignment and I can sure feel it in the front end. Need to get that squared away before the tire install. I sure don't want to ruin another set. The previous front end issues ate my other set up. I picked up a pair of like new used ones for $80 installed to get through the rebuild. 30s going on next week. I don't want to mess with fender trimming. This thing is too straight and I dont want to promote rust.

Well, another cold nasty day outside in the Midwest. Just what I needed to keep the project moving. Started working on blacking out the front end. Before.... grill was a weird gray color with green bleeding through. And of course that bright red badging has to go too.
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And after a few coats of Transtar, much better. Contemplating doing bottom half of bumper where the tow hooks are (now even a different gray) with the same stuff. Then cleaning up the hooks and doing with a flat black.
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Personally, I think the trucks look better with that bottom plastic piece removed completely. Just a matter of opinion, though. I always tended to like ratty junky looking stuff lol

Now, since my 5x8 Pro Comps are on the way, I'm having second thoughts about the 2 1/2" overhang I'm going to have with them and the new tires...... Actually contemplating returning them as soon as they come with no plan B in place..... Just not sure about it. Can't see any fender flares that won't look cheap and I don't have the time to mod the ZR2 flairs to a 4 door since it's my dd.

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Lower bumper and tow hooks complete. Now contemplating some contrast on the front badging. Tossing up between camo pattern on the GMC or in the body color. Any suggestions?

Think about matching body color with the gmc

edit: realized it sounded like a question lol. I think the body color would be good lol. A pattern would stick out unless you put more around somewhere else, like door handles maybe...

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Before and after.... CRAZY! New headlights helped a BUNCH!

Coming along nicely!

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....and today Jimmy got new shoes. REALLY like the look with new 30s. I have tomorrow off so pulling the extra leaf in the back & changing shackles. Sure am looking forward to a smoother ride in the back.
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Looks good, what brand tires?

I did the Firestone Destination AT 30s.. Couldn't afford the BF Goodrich ones I really wanted. Firestone gives military discounts so it comes out cheaper than even WalMart. Decided against the ProComp 5x8s and returned them. Added 1 1/2 spacers in the back which REALLY helped. Thinking about hunting down a set of the Outlaw II style wheels and going black with them.

Looking forward to working on the frame rails & wheel wells, but chomping at the bit for warmer weather where I can polish it out with some Groit's!

Yeah, BFGs are a lil on the expensive side, for sure.

The used set I got for the front to do me through the rebuild were Michelin LTX (I believe). Those were some good looking 235s but didn't even look for 30s in them. That probably would have been more than the Goodrichs. AFTER the install was done I got a quote on the Firestone 235s. I didn't really want to know but curiosity got the best of me. Stupid difference for not much bigger.....
BUT..... they sure look a whole bunch better! LOL

Well, only 3.5 hours (without air) to remove the extra leaf yesterday. I didn't lose near as much lift as I thought I would. I know it's a truck, but that smoothed out that arse harshness quite a bit.
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Ordered new front fender liners this morning. Looking forward to working on the frame rails and wheel wells next. Still keeping an eye out for some of the Outlaw II style wheels to do in black.

Jimmy is ready. BRING IT ON!
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Drove to St Louis during the snow that hit. Was just out ahead of the 15 car pile up on I70. Sometimes timing is everything! Jimmy did great, never even went into 4wd. But I do have to ask..... How's that Prius work'in for ya now?? LOL

Yes, exactly like those! Those come off a 4x4 and for sale by chance?

edit: aahhh, never mind. I just saw the "in the works" part. I'd do mine in a gloss black though. I'd sure like to get my hands on a set of those...... I'm happy with the look of the new 30s and rear spacers. Wanna keep the treads just tucked under the fender lips. Adding some black splash guards when they get here to help keep it clean.

You'll have to post a pic when you get them back on so we can see!

I've got a lead on a posi rear end from a Bravada for $200. Worth it or no?

Good shape? Is it negotiable?

check out cooper stt pro not that expensive and awsome tire

Well, started under coating the fender wells & got 1 done, then started leaking coolant out by #6. We all know what that means.... yep, time for intake gaskets again.Got to checking and all 4 intake bolts on bank 2 were loose (after 100k miles)... 12 ft lbs seems very light to me. I talked to the Dad of my Daughters friend who is a mechanic. He said "you dont actually toque those to spec, do you?" So this time I did torque + 90 degrees. I'll keep you posted on that one. Then came the infamous P0420 code..... Geeeez. Cat is only 3 yrs old so I replaced both 02 sensors. Does good for 2 days, then throws the code again. Any suggestions?

I like that concept of using jack stand but I decided to spend a few extra dollars and bypass that. I have plenty of room for transmission and transfer case removal now... The only draw back is the big boys come off to get the SUV into the garage..Big feet, tiny feet..:icon_goofygrin:
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P0420 Update
 

After some research last night I discovered I got my Walker cat from Amazon in Feb 2017 with a 5 yr warranty.. Contacted Amazon last and the offer of a $20 Amazon Gift Card and a 10% discount on a new one doesn't nearly cover the $156 price tag. After speaking with a Supervisor, Amazon is going to warranty it out. Easy swap on these so nothing to lose except buying a couple new gaskets.
This morning, a buddy of mine sent me this video link:

Watch "chevy blazer p0420" on YouTube
VERY interestimg.....I think I only have about 10k miles on my plugs but I'll pull them and take a look. Will definately go with AC Delco this time since I've learned these things can be picky. I'll post an update when I get time to take a look.

Well, I pulled the plugs and all I can say is Autolights aren't worth packing home regardless of the price. Replaced with AC Delco Rapid Fire Platinums. Was going to replace my rag joint while I had the steering shaft apart, but (once again) got the wrong part from O"Rielly. That's why I quit going there but Auto Zone didnt have it in stock. All I could do was put the shaft back in like it was. Was so pissed when I returned it I forgot to get the P0420 code cleared.Installing new plugs did give me a chance to go ahead and put in the new inner fender skirts though. BTW - Has anyone REALLY ever figured out the rough idle on these? A .010 spacer on the idle set screw bumps it up just enough to make it quit. Can't seem to adjust the screw though......

Just get one of those BAFX Bluetooth (android) or Wifi (Apple) ODB2 port things for smart phone from Amazon and clear your own codes. Great diagnostic tool and worth the money assuming have a smart phone. Not sure what year blazer your talking but 2nd gen does not have a idle adjustment. That screw at throttle hammer is to prevent the air intake plate from completely closing and getting stuck and is to never be adjusted...and if you do raise idle that way your TPS (throttle position sensor) reads as tho your pressing the gas pedal and will coast for ever because idle will never drop down properly.

That's kinda what I figured. I know everything on these (mines a 98) is computer controlled. Just wish I could pinpoint. I've put about 2k in parts on this over the past 6-8 months to bring it up to par not including the new 30s. Doing all the work myself has saved TONS I know. So can that scanner tool read what's going on while it's being driven? The idle issue NEVER throws it's own code. If at.a stop light and I kick it up into neutral the RPMs go up slightly and it smooths out. The rough Idle only happens when it's in gear. I'm not a pro mechanic, but have done just about everything over the years on my cars and trucks. I just don't get it......
I've also.cleaned the MAF, EGR, PCV and throttle body. Truly at a loss here. I've searched the forums many times but haven't found a fix that works yet.