I like your idea of the shackle mounts except that it is going to be very hard to pull the idea off. I say this because you have to mount the hanger inside the frame rail which leaves very little space behind the mount for access to get a nut on the bolt. The hardest part will be bracing it so it is stout enough. IMO trying to build that would be more work than just finding the correct spot for the hanger and welding it up. You can use a few heavy tack welds and that will be enough to hold the weight long enough to check shackle angle and easy enough to cut off and relocate if needed. I don't think you mentioned but it sounds like you may be building your own crossmember correct? Either way get that mounted where you want it and then start with the rear hangers. I mounted mine so the bolt hole on the hanger is directly below the body mount bolt. If I could do it again I would move it forward an inch to inch and a half but thats only because I am running much larger tires than when I built it and I am currently searching for some new leaf springs to help move my axle forward and get the tire out of the back of the fenders when I turn and flex. Once you figure out what springs you want to use you can find measurements of spring mounts online with some searching. The waggy springs seem to be very popular and work very well.

To fit 36's you will have to go spring over or plan to cut alot. Just go spring over and be done with it is my suggestion. I will say that when I had my 44 and 37s my truck truly drove nicer down the hwy at 70 than it ever did stock. To high is a matter of personal preference and desire to climb in and out lol. You can keep it plenty low to not be a nuisance tho just by spending a little extra time to tuck the hangers up into the frame a bit higher and choosing the correct springs. With 36s you shouldn't be to tall at all if you plan and execute properly.

For the brakes I would look into a disk swap for your rear if possible (I'm not certain they make one for your axle) and I would absolutely do an abs module delete and adjustable prop valve from the start. I would also say go ahead and upgrade the master at the same time that way you are only doing it once and doing it right from the beginning. Brakes are not a place you want to cheap out on for sure! The astro box is needed when you push you axle forward so I am going to say that yes you will need one because it sounds like you don't want to cut the back of the fenders. With your axle your best option is probably going to be a y link steering setup. Ditch the tie rod and drag link that you have now and check out RuffStuff's heavy duty y link kit with GM 1 ton TREs. Steering is another place you don't want to skimp on. You really shouldn't need hydro assist on there but if you find that you want it it is easy to add later down the road.

All that being said be prepared to cut some body the fender openings are so small on these things that it makes it really hard to fit large tires without cutting or a huge amount of lift!

Hope I helped a little.

 

Good point on the shackles.. hopefully I can get something in there even if it only has two or three mounting points. Spring over it is then! I'll probably wind up buying a sky's crossmember to save time. The abs will be going away.

They make disc conversion kits for the corp 20, but they're almost a grand and I only paid $300 for the axles. I'm not sure if I could pull something from the junkyard.. I was planning on just doing all stock brake components and getting my axles under the blazer then upgrading/replacing from there. I'll need to re-gear eventually, maybe I'll just replace the rear axle with another 44/60 that has the gears I want so I'm only doing a re-gear on the front axle.

 

What is your front axle out of?

 

83/84 waggy. Those years they came with corporate 20 rears, and 44 fronts with vacuum lockers. I'm going to run a posi-lock type setup on it though so I can control it from the cab independently of the t-case.

 

Thats what I thought it was from. Look around and see if you can find a Isuzu Rodeo rear axle. They are a d44 that matches the same width and lug pattern as your front and you can find them with a factory traclock and 4.56s. They came in 93-99 rodeos with the 93-95.5 (the only years you want) models being the same width as your waggy axle and the newer being a bit wider, they all had drum brakes. If you have a junkyard look around or if you find one in some classifieds ask the seller if they have the vehicle and to check for the RPO code HC6 this designates the 4.56 ratio. This is going to be the easiest option to get to a better gear ratio to accommodate your tire size. I don't know how to identify if it has a traclock or not besides pulling the cover sorry. Honestly I wouldn't even spend any time on your current rear axle with how cheap the rodeo axles can be found.

 

Rex, I've read that traclock needs to run a special additive and won't last as long as something like a detroit locker?

I know the r&p in the corp 20 are beefier than the 44 and I can pick up another corp 20 axle for $150 and have all the replacement parts I need so there's that..

 

Meh the special additive is cheap and easy and even included in many gear oils already. A Detroit is always a good option but at $580 it's ain't cheap! I search many classifieds daily and I have never seen one used for and AMC for sale. Even a lunch box locker is like $280 so add that to at a minimum $300 to re gear and your at almost $600 where you could have a rodeo with 4.56s and a traclock for $250 or less ready to bolt in. I'm just trying to give you options and see the total picture. You are correct about the larger r&p in the AMC but IMO those are negated heavily by the weak axle shafts. It's your truck and you can and should do as you want I'm just trying to pass along what little knowledge I have lol!

 

Where are you located?

 

Denver. Tons of axles, good ones go quick though.

 

Bit the bullet and bought some rancho springs