Got the jimmy in the shop this weekend! Pulled a spring from the front and redrilled my front hanger to drop the front 2 1/2 inches. That helped the drive line angle. Then I cut down the front shaft and clearanced the cv and got that installed. Then front suspension is almost finished. Going to work on brakes and steering tomorrow I think.

 

Buttoned up most of the front suspension today. I think all I have left are brakes and steering.



Then finish up the drive train and front bumper and I should be able to drive it!

 

Getting there! Looking badass!!

 

Nice! What's the plan for steering?

 

thanks Don.

 

I've been trying to come up with something that I can just build with what I have and make work but I can't figure anything out that will be safe. So I'm thinking about just biting the bullet and buying a flat top knuckle and going cross over. Whats your steering set up Tom? I'm sure I've asked you before.

 

Mine is crossover with high steer, but my D60 makes it pretty easy. The steering arms are bolt-on on both sides. If you have a flat top knuckle, you can get it drilled and tapped for a pretty reasonable price. If you need to buy one ready-to-run, I think most places get about $300 for a new one. You could probably make a Y-type drag link setup work, if you can make it clear the leaf springs, but going with the flat top knuckle is probably the best way to go, since it will also give you a better drag link angle.

 

Yea I've priced ready to go knuckles and thats the route I'll probably take. I do have a few ideas on how to make what I have work. I started fabbing up a y link yesterday to try and see how it worked. I also have a plan to try using the stock 10 bolt push/pull setup. Ive always used the stock setup on my full-size square bodys. I don't do any hard core crawling or rocks so that system may work. After its on the road I plan on swapping to a dana 60 and a 14 bolt.

 

If you're very confident in your welding abilities, it probably wouldn't be too big of a deal to weld a tab onto the tie rod and use a Y-link with a Heim joint connecting it to the tie rod. You might have to put a bend in it for tie rod clearance. Even if it doesn't end up being permanent, it would get you by for now.

 

I actually am going to flip the tie rod end to end so it puts the steering stabilizer hole on the passenger side and build a quick and dirty y link to see if it will work. Looking at it yesterday ill have to put a couple bends in it to clear the leaf spring. Im confident in my welding ability so not worried about that. Ill mess with a few ideas this week at work. I have picked up a few side jobs to help pay for parts. I just need some temporary steering so I can move it around easier. Also I picked up a set of almost new courser mxt tires. Only draw back is they are only 35s. So the Tahoe may get a lift and 35s lol.