Its always something with these things! Keep at it!

 

Now it's been a while since I updated here again.
With new bearings in the idle rollers the engine became very quiet and with a new water pump it stopped leaking.
But then a new problem arose.

When I warmed up the engine to get all the air out of the cooling system, the engine temp never went up, so I tried changing the temp sensor and suddenly the meter shows 45 degrees Celsius. So I'm guessing that either the thermostat is broken or I have air in the system. Is there a trick to get the air out of the cooling system on these?

 

You have to get the front of the engine higher than the rear. I use car ramps I drive the the front wheels onto. I've also driven the trucks front wheels onto a curb. The higher you get the front end the better. Remove the radiator cap, start the engine and then add coolant mix to the radiator as the level drops in the radiator. It takes quite awhile, like as long as an hour. GeorgeLG posted a funnel specific for this purpose once so you don't have to stand there and can just leave the truck running while you do something else.

 

It's been over a year since I updated here I see but not much has happened in a while.
But what has happened is that I have moved the car into my garage instead of being outside a friend's garage.

On the car, I got some type of exhaust system and found why the engine didn't get hot. Someone had removed the thermostat.

So now we are into the current problems. I have an illuminated ABS warning light that comes and goes, an engine light and the car is difficult to start. If I use starter fluid it starts and ceeps runing.
Can I check error codes some way on it when i have ths box and OBD connection?

 

I'm not certain what year your Blazer is, but from the look of the engine it appears to be around a '95 model with the CPI engine. If that's the case then it likely has the OBD 1.5 which is a really weird in-between system. It is possible to read the codes via the connector, but I don't know how hard it will be to find a reader capable of pulling codes. It also looks like you might be in Europe, which may also complicate things.

 

It´s a 95 modell year and yes, I´m in europe so finding a code reader might be hard.

 

I need help identifying a harness and some wires in the blazer. They are all on the drivers side under the master brake cylinder.

Lets start with this harness. It have a lose cable sticking out of it and lets start with the loom.

Its the loom that I have circled the marking on and it have this cable sticking out of.



And then I have this one that I feel chould be hooked up somewere

 

Since I last wrote, little has happened. I have changed some vacuum hoses and the new ones is red.



I have checked the condition of the distributor cap and rotor. They didn't look worn, but on the other hand, they had reacted with moisture so they got cleaned. While doing that I dropped a screw to the distributor cap so it has eaten by the engine bay so it is temporarily attached with a zipp-tie


Then I started to look for vaccume leaks inside the car becouse somthing is whistling from the hvac system. But instead I found the aftermarket car alarm that I want to rip out.


But before I so something stupid I hope that you guys kan tell me what it`s hocket in to?

thick yellow cable under the steering wheel

Thinn green cable on the passanger side

 

That's the steering column harness in pictures 4 & 5.

I believe the thick yellow wire that's been cut and spliced with black wires will be your starter wire. That's cut as an starter disable when armed.
The thick pink wire that's spliced into is one of the ignition wires from the harness. This will tell the alarm when the key is on.
The thick red wire that's spliced into is the +12v supply for the alarm. This wire is always hot.

Picture 6
I'm not sure what the green-white wire that's cut is, but if I had to guess I'd say it's likely to be either a door trigger wire, interior lights wire, or parking lights wire, in that order. Testing with a multi-meter or a test-light will tell you.

It really sucks that they cut the wires so close to the factory plug. Makes it super hard to return it to factory condition.

In my opinion as a former MECP certified automotive electronics installer, this is a sub-par install quality, and I think you're right to want to remove it.

 

It was really a really bad install.
The green wires is to chort to conect to the plug again so there I`m going to conect the black wires instead.
The yellow is to chort to just conect so there I need to find a somthing to lengthen it with.
The red one whas soldered so heated it and got the alarm pece of but i need somting good go cover ut with.
The pink one i cut the cable to and planning to wrap that with insoation.