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Regretting Using Rust-Oleum Automotive Paint

  #1  
Old 08-18-2014, 02:09 PM
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Unhappy Regretting Using Rust-Oleum Automotive Paint

I'm a little annoyed with myself. I thought that using a spray paint on my Blazer would have been a good idea for the scratches on the fenders. I have never been so wrong.

I used their Auto Body Touch-Up paint and clear-coat. I realize that I should have purchased their kit instead.

Now my Blazer has drip marks, looks matte and hazy where I did the work (even after using rubbing and polishing compounds), and I just feel like crap for not doing this job properly.

I used the
Turtle Wax T-230A Rubbing Compound & Heavy Duty Cleaner Turtle Wax T-230A Rubbing Compound & Heavy Duty Cleaner
and
Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound
both with an random orbital.

While she's starting to look better, I was looking for something that would ensure that the job is finished a little bit faster than it's going now (I've put in about 3 hours of random orbital compounding if that makes sense). My patience is running thin because the more time I spend on this "fix" the more I'm reminded of how royally I screwed up this amateur paint job.

Does anyone have recommendations for a rubbing compound that can cut through paint?? I can post photos later if that helps.
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:17 PM
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I don't know crap about paint sorry but I noticed your in Alexandria. I work in Springfield but our store is on King St in Alexandria!
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:43 PM
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How about using paint thinner to remove the new paint and start over.
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:56 PM
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by terry b View Post
How about using paint thinner to remove the new paint and start over.
Oh, I thought about that one! I went to Advanced Auto Parts and spoke with a really knowledgable guy there (which, by the way, is very odd for my area). He came out and looked at my Blazer and saw what I was trying to accomplish. He recommended Turtle Wax Renew Rx Premium Rubbing Compound. We'll see what happens... Otherwise... I'll just feel like this...
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:41 PM
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What store is that?
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:21 PM
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K. Pictures would help.

However. I'd wet sand with 400 and start over.


A few things likely happened here.

1 . if you did not wet sand first. Then this is where you need to go back to and do.

Without this. The paint on top of the clear coat of what was already on there is a issue.

2. If u did wet sand first and then applied base coat.

It has to go on light. 2 to 3 light coats. 10 minutes apart.

Then let dry for several hours.

Then light wet sand with 600/ 800 grit.

Now you can do your clear coat. 2 to 6 light coats. Again 10 to 15 min apart.


Once it has dried for 6 to 24 hours. Then light wet sand. 1000 grit and 1500 grit.

Then you use the rubbing compound and buffing compound.


I left a few things out but this gets u good.


Spray can paint does not have a hardner in it. Curing agent. Takes longer to cure. Before you can paint on top of it or buff it.


The runs were either from over spraying or lack of wet sanding.

Most runs once cured can be wet sanded and buffed out.
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by run_girl View Post
What store is that?
Creative Classics. We are right next to Misha's coffee at Patrick and King St.
 
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:55 PM
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Is it just the clear coat that has runs in it, or the color coat too? if its the clear coat. this is what you need to do..
get some 1000 gritt wet/dry sand paper, soak the paper in soap and water and have a spray bottle with soapy water near by to keep the work surface wet.
Start wet sanding the problem area, having a clean dry towel near by so you can dry it off and see how its coming along, once the area is uniform dull from sanding, and you did not go through the clear to the color coat, you can step up to 1200-1600 grit wet sand paper.
Same process, soak the paper in soapy water, bottle of soapy water on hand, sand until most fine scratches are out of the paint.

Once that is done, wash the area and let it dry, then carefully hit it with the cutting compound and then follow up with the finishing compound.

Its not like I dont know what I am talking about when it comes to painting cars

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and trust me, on that one I used a cheap automotive spray gun, with the flow adjustment broken at my buddies shop, and there were SERIOUS 1-2mm think runs, to the point where there was drips on the bottom of the fender.

Still annoyed about that, I could not find my sprayer.. asked my buddy, he was like "yeah, you can use mine"
 
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Old 11-20-2014, 12:47 PM
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I been working in Autobody over 20 years now In all areas

First your truck is black Which is a color that shows everything
If you used spray can paint ..and i have long ago to "fix" some problems
It's not a great paint to rub or sand However it can be done

I wouldn't use 1000grit on your new paint like said above I would Try a higher Grit like a 2000grit wet and soap added to move better

If you had runs there is a reason why Ether laying the paint on to close to the truck or not moving the can quicker back and forth Remember you need to add "light" coats almost dusting it on but having a wet look so cross over the area with 3 or 4 passes with in a few secs making sure your can is 2 hands worth of distance away then let it set or ( Tack ) for about 10 to 15 mins (room temp ) depending on the outside air temp do this about 3 times or untill you think the paint is what you want

Dry 1 to 4hrs Add your clear coat same manner Wait a few days if your in a warm sunny place ..sun helps dry times bucket of warm soapy water 2000grit sandpaper on a foam pad sand till you see a dull flat surface in the are you worked on Use your rubbing compound if you see your results are not what your looking for drop down to 1500grit then back to 2000grit and compound etc Its always better to use finer sand paper and work more then Deep sandpaper and scratch up everything you just did you can click my name to view my truck and the work i did
 
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