engine swap
hey i am new to the forum and i bought an 88 s10 blazer 2.8 5 spd and i want to put a 350 in it and i just wanted to know if anyone on here that has done this before would be able to tell me the best way to go about it and some of the problems that i might run into. or maybe if they know where i can get some information on it. let me know. thanks.
Best bet is to grab the book from JagsthatRun.com
One thing that you will run up against is having to put in a different transmission. The 2.8L v6 is a 60* 'V' and has a different transmission bolt pattern than the 90* 'V' engines (4.3L, 5.7L, etc).
One thing that you will run up against is having to put in a different transmission. The 2.8L v6 is a 60* 'V' and has a different transmission bolt pattern than the 90* 'V' engines (4.3L, 5.7L, etc).
thanks guys i appreciate it, i am gunna grab that book up for sure, i figured i would need a different tranny i am just not sure what one i am gunna use, i think i am gunna keep it 5 spd. well let me know how it goes and keep me posted on the problems you run into and let me know of any other info you get. thanks again.
mounts and headers combinations can get very specific. Read the header manufacturers requirements before selecting which mount kit.
You may be own your own as most kits are designed for automatics not standards.
I did mine building my own mounts, rear tranny mount and adaptor piece from the clutch pedal to a tilton master cylinder and then used a quartemaster hydraulic throw out bearing with a Richmond / Doug Nash 5 speed,
I started with Hooker long tubes, they were a pain as they wrapped around the frame, then I hand Sanderson shorties and they were OK accept the passenger side floor board required alot of clearancing. Currently running factory manifolds and all wire heat shields of a 92 buick wagon with a corporate motor, NO leaks for 4 years, but this is more ofa tow vehicle motor than a high revver too.
You may be own your own as most kits are designed for automatics not standards.
I did mine building my own mounts, rear tranny mount and adaptor piece from the clutch pedal to a tilton master cylinder and then used a quartemaster hydraulic throw out bearing with a Richmond / Doug Nash 5 speed,
I started with Hooker long tubes, they were a pain as they wrapped around the frame, then I hand Sanderson shorties and they were OK accept the passenger side floor board required alot of clearancing. Currently running factory manifolds and all wire heat shields of a 92 buick wagon with a corporate motor, NO leaks for 4 years, but this is more ofa tow vehicle motor than a high revver too.





