I recently purchased a 2001 S10 Blazer 4X4 , 4 Door LT with the 4.3 V6 engine. Had trouble getting it to start at all. Figured that out and it was the Coil Pack assembly with bracket, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then after replacing the coil pack set it started right up. Problem was the damn thing started to spew oil out all over the ground in the dirt from inside the black plastic splash guard under the radiator support and fan assembly. Twice with two different Oil filters this has now happened. Swiftly i shut the engine off before the bearings run dry and the block seized. Anyone out there ever have this happen before? I have owned nothing but F bodys and S10 for the past 20 years. Never have i had any problems like this. WHat could cause the oil filter to spew Oil and blow the rubber oil filter ring seal???
Looked online since i posted this and really did not find a good answer? LS1 site had guy claim its blk plastic or foil mix substance clogging the pick up tube? Ok??? Not if so how would the pump created the 200 PSI it needs to burst the oil filters flat O ring? Not? Another few people mentined that it could have been the oil pumps pressure releif valve not releasing the pressure causing one to have to drop the oil pan and pump replacing the oil pump? One problem how did the oil pump just go bad sitting around for six months? The man drove this Blazer for almost five straight years without any tune ups, barely any oil changes? Before the engine died and motor refused to start. Which i found out was the coil pack assembly dead. Currrent actual mileage 114,467, 2001 LT S10 Blazer 4.3 Vortec engine with 3:42 Gears auto trans 4x4

 

I asked local repair garage owners of anything like this happening to them over the years?? Nothing with S10 Blazers or Pick Ups, Weird part is this never happened to the original owner before me. It just stopped running for him so he stopped running it. Apparently this happened just sitting around waiting to be sold? The oil filters leak and or buldge at the point of start up buidling an excessive amount of oil pressure beyound 200 PSI. All i found online like this claims its a sticking oil pump pressure releif valve? How? Doesn't make sense to me that it just stick broke down? Other repair shops techs tell me its prob old oil deposits collected inside the rubber flex line part of the remote oil filter?? Thats my next move. I own the GM service manuals for this vehicle and i can not find a section on sticking oil pump pressure releif valves?

 

I`ve heard of the old rubber gasket from the filter staying on the engine, with the new one it would be doubled up and may cause problems

 

I discarded the double rubber option because of my fully inpsecting the mating surface each time i replaced the oil filter with another new one. Whiping it clean again each time with a clean cloth. I've been through four oil filters in the past 23 hours. And each one blew apart at the seal after starting the engine. Within 30 seconds of running the engine. Really starting to suck, cost allot of money in oil, filters, oil dry and time. Thanks much for replying

 

"The man drove this Blazer for almost five straight years without any tune ups, barely any oil changes"

This might have something to do with it The oil pressure releif valve is in the engine block. The oil filter adapter at the left rear of the engine must be removed to access it. The valve just pulls out and the new one gets staked in. GM dealer has them, (cheap) and you'll need a gasket set, (under $10).

 

There is a GOD!!! Thank you !! Thank you so much! This makes sense! Car Quest Auto here in town sold me the n ew gasket set today for the remote adapter, Now all i need is the releif valve. MAkes perfect sense. It sat around and got stuck some how? SOmething like that i pressume.

 

This thread might help you: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...s-valve-76044/

Edit: This link is a study guide for ASE, (Automotive Service Excellence) and explains the operation of the oil filter bypass valve and the oil pressure bypass valve: http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/oi...-function.html

 

The captain rocks here

 

Us North Central PA boyz around these parts never faced a faulty oil pressure relief valve stuck shut before?? Miles around me hours away garage owners and techinicans alike are really stumped over this one. I know i am. Now its all a matter of braving that 10 to 20 degree temp outisde in my driveway where it was dumped by the hauling trailer. No room in my shop for it at this point. The attached scematic is very helpful. My GM service manual helped too. Hopefully after i go through all the motions and get the oil flowing correctly again I can post a positive reply that will help many down the road with there expanding oil filter and spewing oil filter junction block??? Funny! I go to my local GM Chevrolet dealer parts department, and they wanna know why im ordering this part?? I tell them. They are like ohh!! Its doubled up oil filter seals?? I'm like no. They were like oh its clogged up tubes?? I'm like no again! I took them out and blew air through tubes and radiator passages. No and no. I need this part. Well they didn't think it had anything to do with oil filter seals blowing out?? Dummys!!

 

OK Captain Hook shined through on this one!!! I talked to my Snap On dealer, i talked to GM mechaincs that work at my local GM dealer and see me on the Snap On truck weekly at the GM dealer, I talked to mechanics on facebook, i talked to mechanics on IATN and everyone was WRONG! It was not the oil pump, First off to be a oil pump wouldn't the engine have to be wrapping really hard from the oil starvations? Second of all This is a rare problem, Yet rare doesnt mean that it wasnt the external valve upside the oil cooler lines adapter that bolts to the engine block. Where a oil filter would mount should my Blazer have been a 2WD model. Its a 4WD model. Captain came right at me with the proper guidance and part to ask for at my local GM dealer. One hell of a bitch to remove i just admit. Thats only if you do not drill a hole into the old valve. I spent days attempting to remove the old valve with a rigged up pick and snap on mini slide hammer set. After becoming vary agrivated i bought a Irwin 12" drill bit extension and 5/16 quick change drill bit at my local Lowes Hardware. Climbed under there one more time. Drilled the hole in it within two minutes, installed the spiral threaded extractor into the hole that came with the snap on slide hammer set and after a few tugs on the slide hammer the extractor pulled out. SO i screwed the extractor in even tighter into the drilled hole i made into the valve. Few more tugs with the slide hammer and POP! Out she came with ease. I thoroughly cleaned up the work area with Multi Purpose cleaner from Kimbal Midwest and a magnet. Reinstalled the oil coller line adapter ontop the engine and oil coller lines. Poured motor oil till it read full. Started it right up and let it run for about 20 minutes. Take note that my in dash oil pressure gage read 80PSI for the first 12 to 15 minutes. After warm up and running 20 minutes i checked the oil pressure gage and it read 40 PSI normal oil pressure for this vehicle. Let it run for about 1 1/2 hours and drove it around my town before driving home and shutting off the engine. As i potentially have or had issues with the fuel pump? Yet to be determined? I started it right up after that. SO i feel completely confident that the oil filter spewing 5 quarts of motor oil out in under 20 seconds is very SOLVED. If your one of my IATN Co Members you were all wrong!!