I'd start with he CKP P0335 ...Replace it or have it replaced , then get a relearn done...

Then see what else pops up if anything...

If the CKP isn't right , then nothing else will be..

 

as far as the fuel in the exhaust goes, surely if it is misfiring there would be fuel in the exhaust?


the lack of heat could be a blocked core, have you felt the inlet and outlet hoses to the core to see if they are both hot?

 

ALWAYS start with lowest numbered code. In this case P0101. System is designed this way.

This one kind of sounds like a severely restricted air intake for the running problem. I have heard of the inlet to the air filter housing getting bent over out of place and causing a restriction. Might want to check this.

Not even commenting on heat problem with engine performance as it is.

 

Got a chance to re-read this after my eyes open a little...

These values seem to be running on the low side.. The PCM will essentially throw a misfire code for any cylinder that is not within 15% of the highest number.

Did you try a wet compression test as well? Outside of the CKP and MAF codes , the overheating and low compression numbers kind of have me leaning towards a possible head gasket issue.

Try a wet compression test if you can to see if those numbers go up. If not, then you may be looking at an issue with the top end.

The other few things you can do of course is to see if you have coolant in the oil and also get a coolant exhaust gas test kit.

Just a few random thoughts.

 

I'd have to respectfully disagree with that. As an example, if your truck is not running right and you are getting P1345 and a P0300, if you went with the lowest number first you would spend a lot of time checking fuel trims, O2 sensors, fuel pump, vacuum leaks, etc when simply removing and reinstalling the distributor would more than likely solve the P1345 and potentially the P0300 also.

I believe jone531@bellsouth.net is on the right track in his first post. There is a circuit issue with the battery voltage to the CKP sensor, or the sensor itself is bad, or has been disturbed, or the CKP sensor is contacting the tone ring and needs a shim, or an issue with the tone ring, etc. Also see the attached TSB concerning the shim issue. You could have a separate unrelated issue with p0101. But I would focus on the CKP first.

After that you need to set your cam retard. You will also need to have a crank relearn procedure done with a capable bi-directional scan tool or dongle. Then I would focus on P0101 if it popped up again.

Also, below is a thread similar to yours concerning P0335. After you read the first post, scroll down to post #9 (Captain Hook's post) then keep reading, he does a better job than I explaining it (plus he knows a ton more than me!).

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...5-56334/page2/

 

Thanks for the responses.

Todays update consists of, started throwing P0128 (thermostat, which has about 50 miles on it) P0155 heater sensor circuit, and the misfire continues to get worse (about 2200 when cold now and 1800 when hot) I know i shouldn't be driving it but its all i got till parts come in for my main truck thursday. So shes got to get me through another day and a half.

I checked the coolant lines. All lines are hard and appear to be pressurized. All lines are also HOT, however the outlet for the heater core is warm, or less hot at least, also a hair softer. So i looped out the heater core. The misfire changed to a higher RPM. I got excited and took it for a trip and it eventually started to over heat and blew off my connection. Previous owner definitely put stop leak in it as i can see what looks like rust chunks in the coolant still.

I have been considering the p0101 to be the least of my concerns, but maybe im wrong. Truck has a cold air intake from previous owner and in my experience that almost always throws a code eventually. However, iv cleaned the MAF about 15 times, the inlet pipe, the throttle body and scoped out all plugs, wires, and sensors hoping it would help the misfire.

Is that a fact to start with the lowest number code? iv never herd that before? Any one practice this method as well?

I am starting to lean towards a head gasket myself. That was my original diagnosis but didn't want to get carried away and tear it down and have it not solve the problem. When i did a compression test this is exactly what i got for number. 2=150 4=115 6=120 1=120 3=135 5=130. Im thinking that difference between 2 and 4 is the issue even though many mechanics have advised me to ignore it.

I can confidently say no coolant is getting in the oil. The level has stayed the same through all my processes and miles. Also it smells and looks like oil, not peanut butter.

I am also considering the ECM at this point seeing how it keeps throwing codes left and right for completely random things and they dont come back when cleared, got a wheel sensor code at one point, fuel injector circuit failure (P0200) to name a few i remember. Iv never messed with an ECM and know absolutely nothing about how to diagnose them so that will be my last attempt i guess.

A friend also mentioned a badly clogged CAT could be a culperate.

I picked up a crank shaft position sensor today and a few gallons of coolant. My plan at this point is to run it for the next day and if it doesn't blow up ill do the sensor and back flush the heater core and the coolant system until i feel its clean and hopefully not plugged up. I have set up for the relearn to be done on Friday. Might even cut out the cat if it sounds like theres crap in there. If that doesn't help i will ask their opinion but i will probably go towards a head gasket and a head rebuild if i have no luck. Im sure it needs valve seals anyway.

Any opinions please share. Im an experienced machinist, not mechanic. I take my time and learn as i go. All input is appreciated.

 

After you read the first post, scroll down to post #9 (Captain Hook's post) then keep reading, he does a better job than I explaining it (plus he knows a ton more than me!).

https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...5-56334/page2/[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the input. I read this thread previously among many in my research and have had it in the back of my mind. I was a little leary to even touch the CKP after reading his post lol. So i have yet to even throw a multi-meter on it. However, given all the other stretched wires from the body lift i wonder if that pink wire he refers to in the fuse box could possibly be the culprit! We will find out soon enough when i go to replace it!

 

Note, I don't think you should blow off P0101. Just that the CKP problem should be your first fix including setting cam retard and crank relearn. Then address P0101 if it pops again. That could be your fuel out of exhaust problem. Especially with the CAI (I'd junk that anyway).

 

My experience is that the crank relearn cannot be triggered with a P030x pending as the OP seems to have