well i finally got a day off so I started doing the ign troubleshooting according to the procedure you sent. I had to order a spark tester so I pulled the number 2 plug and checked the old fashion way. The spark is white and very weak so I went on with the procedure as no spark and I g rinded to a halt. The VCM has 5 or so plugs in it and I don't know which ones which. I also need to know which wire in the plug.
If it is the VCM which one should I buy They are priced from 70 to 400 and the ones I saw are reconditioned. Also how do you program it? Can I do it my self? Can it be done rite there at the parts store before I install it?

I found the VCM connectors info in AllData. I give it a shot and get back to you.
What about the crank position sensor could it be the culprit? Just a shot in the dark. How do you test it?
If it is the VCM which one should I buy They are priced from 70 to 400 and the ones I saw are reconditioned. Also how do you program it? Can I do it my self? Can it be done rite there at the parts store before I install it?

I found the connector and pin descriptions, Number 9 says it is both the IC curcuit and ign timing one at the same time. Is that rite? If not could you help?

 

Well I did the ign. test according to your directions and if my assumtion is rite about the number nine pin and the wire being white I tested the VCM bad. I talked to several parts stores and shops and they tell me it is very rare. They tell me that the coil seldom goes out too but I tested it bad. I have thrown up my hands and it is in the shop now. Your help was great and I am sure we would have gotten it running it was just a matter of time. I just didn't want to throw any more money into parts that may or may not fix it. If it is the VCM I still needed to get it towed to the dealership for flashing so I towed it to a shop instead. I will keep you informed on the status.


Call the shop and they said it has spark now but didn't tell me what they did. Now they say it is getting to rich and it still won't start. What could be the problem and how much could it cost to fix?

 

Still in the shop. I guess to establish spark the tech re-stabed the distributer, new cap, rotor, wires, and he cleaned the fuel soaked plugs. Still nothing. He squrited something in the throttle body and it stumbled a little be didn't come no ware near starting.

I stabbed the distributer just like stickys thread said to. I found TDC with a compression gauge but still he said it was off. The cap, rotor, plugs, and wires were new. They never even had any run time. I did the no spark trouble shooting guide sticky sent me and it came up rotor. But by then it was allready in the shop because I crossed lines on the trouble shooting guide and came up with VCM. I figured it needed to be towed to town anyhow might as well get a second opion.

The tech is going to do a complete compression check he thinks it could be a valve or two. I thought it could be the rockers to tight but after some investagation I found out they are torqued and not set like the old days so I figured they can't be messed up.

Could the pluggs just not be cleanable and need replacing? I could never clean the plug in my dirt bike after it was fouled so I just had to replace it. They said they sand blasted them. Is that good enough?

It still sounds like timing to me. What should I tell the tech to do next. I think he is just shooting in the dark I should have just done it myself. I just really thought a pro would just have it running without a problem. This shop is even an electrical specialty shop.

If anyone out there has ANY input please tell me. my good deal is getting to be a lemon.

This truck is in great shape and only has 140k for miles and to top it all off I like it. This problem has had to of happened to someone else. I have spent litteraly hours reviewing every post that even sound romotly close. I am at witts end. Any sort of input would be greatly aprecheated and taken very serious.

PLEASE HELP

 

got it back from the repair shop.

They replaced the cap, rotor, and plugs
they stabbed the dist rite again
they plugged the coil in so it made good contact.
They did a compression check and it turned out super all around 170#
then they said they found the main wiring harnesses not plugged in rite. The tech was trying to start it and they told me he leaned on it and it ran. So he plugged it in rite. they said it didn't match up rite but they fixed it.
they said they took it out for 2 test runs.
then changed the oil and flushed the radiator.
Job done!
$834.54 later the job was done and I got to drive it for the first time. It drove nice. Did a quick check of the lights and off I want.


I climbed the first hill home and it preformed flawlessly. In and out of OD I didn't shift to D but it worked great. 1800 rpms at 55.
Drove it another mile or so and the rpm;s jumped up to 2500. I just thought it was the trans and some sort of connection or sensor I didn't think to much of it.
Then came the second hill. RPMs still at 2500 I started up. RPM jumped up and it was slowing down. I thought they didn't check the tranny fluid when they did the oil change and it was to low so I hunted for a gear that would work. The rpm's were all over the place like a short in the wiring. Well it went about 100 yards and died. I pulled over but there wasn't much room. It wouldn't start. It acted like the battery is dead. Then it cranked slow and started but it was barley running so it died and wouldn't start again. A real labored crank when it would. Called AAA yet again. Of course there wasn't any cell reception so I had to drive up the road. At the same time the tow truck was passing me the other way what a cawisadence (boy is that spelled wrong but I am an operating engineer not an English major). So back to the shop it goes.

Now on to my question. Has this happened to any one else? Is there a year or two the the wiring harness isn't quite rite? Or is the shop blowing smoke? Rite now I am into this thing $1450 so now my good deal has turned into a fair deal. They can be bought all day around here for $2000. The dealers still want $29 TO $39 for them but I don't know the mileage. Mine has 140k which I don't feel is to bad. I figure it has at least 100k more before it need any work.

So if you take the time to read this please comment. Sticky I value your input so PLEASE give me your 2 cents worth.