you need to computer for it to run

 

I'll need that computer from that engine or can I use mine ?

 

I would get everything you can with that engine if its free with it. But I would suggest that when you put that engine into your blazer to reuse your ECM from your old engine. Your VIN is loaded to the ECM and could cause issues if you have emissions testing in your area.
As long as the engine that you are swapping into your blazer has the same sensors and configuration the ECM wont know the difference between engines. However if someone plugs an advanced OBD2 reader into it they can tell if the ECM has been swapped and not VIN corrected.

 

ECM is another $20-$30 bucks, I can't afford it right now. I believe the truck I'm pulling it from is a 4WD and it's a 97 GM truck, so it should be the same sensors and configuration shouldn't it ? But as you say, OBD2 scanner will tell me if there is an issue

 

Just 2 more questions lol

The mounting bolts...what sizes are the nut and bolt heads, and where are they located ?

And the bell housing bolts, can I access them using a ratchet and short socket or do I need a wrench ?

 

If I remember correctly the blocks and heads are the same from 96 up. (hopefully someone will correct this if i am wrong) There is some differences in the intakes and exhaust manifolds like EGR or non EGR motors.
Just make sure you keep your engine until the swap is done incase you need any sensors or parts off of it on the replacement engine.


What I was saying about the scanners is that the higher end models, the dealers scanner and the instruments that emissions testing locations use can read the VIN number that is programmed into the ECM. So if you swap ECMs between vehicles the VINs will not match the vehicle and could cause some issues. Usually this is not a big deal but I have talked to people who have failed emission testing due to this.

 

I would bring a full tool box with you if you can because it would sucks to be at the salvage yard and not have the right tools. The main sockets/wrenches you will need should be 10mm, 13mm, 14mm and 15mm.


I would suggest pulling both the inner fenders because its only about 10 bolts per side and will give you a ton more room.


The motor mounting bolts can be seen on your blazer through the fender well under the exhaust manifold. there should be 3 bolts that thread into the engine block and 3 bolts that thread into the frame. You either unbolt it from the engine or the frame whichever is easier.


For the bell housing bolts, you will need a wrench for a couple of them on the top if the transmission is not dropped down and for the others I would suggest a socket with long extensions to reach them from around the transmission.
!!be careful when you pull the engine as the transmission is only bolted into the truck by one tiny rubber mount in the back and the engine in the front so it will fall onto the ground when the engine is removed.!!


To access the torque converter bolts you will have to remove the starter and remove them through where the starter was bolted. Basically remove one bolt, spin the engine 1/3 turn remove another bolt spin engine 1/3 turn and remove last bolt.
The exhaust is another fun one to remove and the pipe to manifold nuts like to strip so make sure you use a 6 point socket on those.

 

My mistake ,was thinking bigger motor upgrade.

 

Somehere in there GM stopped using the balancer shaft that runs above the cam, but it was later in like 01 or 02 I think...


OP, If I'll be blunt, this sounds like you need someone helping you that's done this sort of thing before... I'm all about learning and trying things out myself for the first time, but an engine pull/swap is NEVER something I'd undertake by myself if I've never done it before... There's no shame in calling up a mechanically savvy friend and asking for help, even if it cost you a 6 pack and a pizza.

my $0.02

 

Factory instructions have you remove the transfer case and lower the transmission to get at the bellhousing bolts, ground straps, and fuel line clamp on the rear of the cylinder heads. The transmission is then removed so the engine can be pulled straight up without being moved forward. Of course no one wants to remove trans and transfer case to get the engine out. It can be done with the transmission in place, but there are certain problems with doing so.

With the trans in place, the back of the engine does not drop down for access to the bellhousing bolts and there are two particularly difficult ones to get out. These are the top two on the driver's side. The one behind the accelerator pedal may not have sufficient room between the trans and the firewall to actually be removed. The top one is just extremely awkward to get to, as are the multiple ground straps. I will tell you how to deal with the fuel line clamp later, but know that the engine will not come out until it is dealt with.

Remove upper radiator shroud. Drain coolant and disconnect hoses, transmission lines, and oil cooler lines. Remove radiator and lower shroud. Remove A.I.R injector tubes from engine (these attach to the valves in front of exhaust manifolds). Remove P/S pump on it's bracket and zip tie forward out of the way in the lower radiator support. Remove A/C compressor on its bracket and with hoses still attached zip tie it back on the evaporator case.

Unbolt underhood relay center from it's place and flip it over. Disconnect the big wiring harness that goes across the engine at this box (by removing plug-in retaining bolt) and all the places where it connects to the engine. Lay this wiring harness over the A/.C compressor and out of the way. Remove alternator on its bracket and remove from vehicle. Remove distributor and plug wires from engine – plug the hole with a rag and keep debris out of the engine. Remove knock sensor and oil pressure sensor (for clearance to get at bellhousing bolts). Disconnect and remove fuel line Schrader valve. All this stuff needs to come off to access the top bellhousing bolts.

Disconnect y-pipe at both exhaust manifolds. Remove passenger side exhaust manifold. Remove starter (easily bring starter out where exhaust manifold used to be). Also note that with manifold removed, engine will clear the evaporator case without twisting it at a 45 degree angle. Otherwise you risk damaging the evaporator case. Remove three torque converter bolts through starter hole. Disconnect transmission line to oil pan bracket. Disconnect crank sensor. Remove through-bolt on each engine mount. Disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box for clearance.

Next you need to get all the bellhousing bolts out. There are six main bolts that go into the engine, and several more that go into the oil pan. The top two (start with these) will need to be removed with a combination end-wrench – and yes, 1/12 turn at a time on the driver's side top bolt – so be patient. Plan on dropping more than one wrench into oblivion on top the trans, so have extra wrenches ready. No, I don't remember the size but it was Metric, possibly 17mm bolt head. The next bolt down on the driver's side is the tough one. If you have clearance then by all means go ahead and take it out. For me, I zipped an appropriately positioned 2” flap in the sheet metal behind my accelerator pedal using a Dremel tool and bent it back for access to the bolt.

Once you have the bellhousing bolts out, put a floor jack underneath the trans, jack it up aganst the trans tunnel and pull the engine forward as far as it will go (about 2”). Now you have just enough room between the heads and the firewall to remove the ground straps and the fuel line clamp on the lower rear of the driver's side head. As long as you can get the flex plate in front of the trans bellhousing on the way up, you should then be able to lift the engine up and out of the vehicle.

Reverse to reinstall.