I pulled up the live data while cranking the motor and the scan tool says 0 degrees retarded( at this point I think this whole thing is more than retarted). I may be looking at this wrong but is that possible to cause a try to start but not?
I took a second look at the knock voltage and it is reading 4.68 but I am only seeing 1 voltage recorded. don't these have 2 sensors. one on the driver side below the manifold and the other under the distributor on the top/rear of the motor?. if the knock sensor below the manifold on the block were bad that might cause the poor running when raining if it were getting moisture. if I unplug them I know it will trigger a code but will that reset default timing? Also I was reading a thread about distributor wear. I don't recall any side play in the shaft or worn gear when I had it out buy that is another check I am going to make next time I'm out.

 

Cool thanks! What way do you rotate it if its retarded?

 

counterclockwise.

 

Zero degrees is the default value. Camshaft retard is not accurate until engine RPM is snapped above 2K and comes back to idle.

If camshaft retard is off, it will cause crossfire in the cap and might cause a no-start condition. If it's far enough off, it can definitely cause a no start condition.

There is only one knock sensor on your 2000. It is located next to the distributor and has a single blue wire. The sensor in the left cylinder head between cyls 3 & 5 is the ECT, (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. It has a yellow, and a black wire.

No. It only retards ignition timing when the engine is running, and the sensor detects detonation.

 

I think I have eliminated everything. can a CPS relearn be done with the vehicle not starting? I am thinking not since you have to go through engine RPM's but minus that I'm lost at this point. <br />
Note: I have not gone into the relearn at this time. and I did look the advance and retard are at 0 degrees but you answered that above.

 

The engine must be running to initiate the relearn. After it is intiated on the scan tool, you bring engine RPM up to 4K, take your foot off the gas, and the PCM does the rest.

The P0300 is telling you what the problem is: Random, (more than one) cylinder misfire.

Are the plug wires good? (including the coil wire) Not jumping to ground while cranking.

Are they installed correctly?



Is the ignition coil good? Does it produce a blue, (not orange) spark that will jump at least a 1/2" gap while cranking? Make sure secondary coil voltage is not leaking or jumping to ground at or near the coil.
Are you sure the distributor gear is properly meshed with the camshaft gear? Is the rotor segment pointing at the "6" when #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke?

 

all of that is checked and double checked. I am jumping a 12mm gap with blue spark at each plug while cranking. I am pointing at the 6 with the #1 cyl at tdc lined up with the balancer marking/block marker. I will try to video w how the motor is turning over and link to it.

 

Did you rotate the crankshaft clockwise, manually with a socket & ratchet, when aligning all 4 marks like this, and are you certain #1 piston is on the compression stroke, (not exhaust stroke)?

 

yes. the car would not try to start if it was off 180 or even 100 degrees using the wrong mark. below is the link to YouTube for where I'm at.

 

The air inlet MUST be connected to the throttle body. Any and all air that the engine consumes must pass through the MAF sensor.