2001 Won't start
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 19

Was driving the 2001 on the hwy. when it started missing pretty bad. Misses for a few seconds then ok for a few, repeat. Shut it off once, it started up again. Drove home, it hasn't started since. Didn't like the way the distributer looked (holes for cap cracked out). Replaced distributer, cap, rotor, plugs, coil, module, wires. Won't start. Bought a spark tester, looks very weak to me, sometimes the plug won't even arc while laying out and turning over. When I remove the connector from the coil, I measured the voltage coming out of the connector with key on and get nothing. Isn't there supposed to be 12 volts there? What could be the cause of zero volts? Thanks for any help.
James
James
#2
You won't get voltage out of the wire between the coil and the distributor.
Are you sure that you got the replacement distributor timed properly? The thread linked to below will detail how to time it properly (or check the timing):
EDI Engine Timing
Are you sure that you got the replacement distributor timed properly? The thread linked to below will detail how to time it properly (or check the timing):
EDI Engine Timing
#3
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 19

Thanks I will use the info. I have installed and built 50 SBC's in my day so I thought I had it right> I have taken it out maybe 15 times working on it. But, I have been lining up the first "groove" on the balancer to the tab on the timing cover. So I will line up the second and give it a shot. Got to go to this thing called work for a while though....have to pay for parts somehow!!!
Well I lined up the second mark on the balancer and t=my rotor was just a little beyond the #1 contact. Backed it off a tooth, but no difference. When I was checking for better spark at plug I put my hand over the spark tester bulb so I could see if it was flashing at all and I got shocked. Wasn't as bad as other times I have done dumb things.... but still not enough spark to even jump the spark plug gap. No sight of spark at the plug, no "snapping", and the spark plug bulb barely flashes, can't even really see it in clouded daylight, Worse yet it seems intermittent. One revolution it sparks, next two or three nothing, Then a little flash on the tester, then nothing again....
Well I lined up the second mark on the balancer and t=my rotor was just a little beyond the #1 contact. Backed it off a tooth, but no difference. When I was checking for better spark at plug I put my hand over the spark tester bulb so I could see if it was flashing at all and I got shocked. Wasn't as bad as other times I have done dumb things.... but still not enough spark to even jump the spark plug gap. No sight of spark at the plug, no "snapping", and the spark plug bulb barely flashes, can't even really see it in clouded daylight, Worse yet it seems intermittent. One revolution it sparks, next two or three nothing, Then a little flash on the tester, then nothing again....
Last edited by swartlkk; 06-09-2010 at 06:16 PM. Reason: **Combining Consective Posts** - Please use the EDIT feature to add information to your post if another member has yet to reply.
#4
You don't line it up to the #1 contact, but rather, to the '6' molded into the distributor base.
Have you ruled out the possibility of malfunctioning replacement parts?
Have you ruled out the possibility of malfunctioning replacement parts?
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 19

The "6" and the number 1 contact are at the smae spot on this thing. I have ruled out the replacement coil, module, cap, wires, and plugs. I haven't put a new rotor on it but it shows no resistance and is only got a couple thousand miles on it. When I did the spark check a minute ago, I checked every wire. 2 and 3 get decent spark. 6 gets an occasional spark. 1, 4, 5 are no spark at all. Now I know, well, I don't know anything really....
#6
Stupid question time... Is the cap on correctly? Seated properly?
The cap could not be made correctly, with the proper gap between the rotor and the cap at 2 & 3, but too wide of a gap for the rest of the posts.
The cap could not be made correctly, with the proper gap between the rotor and the cap at 2 & 3, but too wide of a gap for the rest of the posts.
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 19

Well I have tried the old cap, that was working fine before I changed it a couple months back. Maybe I should buy a new cap and rotor, from a different source. Maybe even take the distribuor back and check it against a different one too. Does the PCM have anything to do with timing? Do those things go bad just driving down the road??
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 19

cheap rotors from autozone would not work. bought an expensive one a NAPA and runs just fine. Ain't that a btch.
#9
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 10

swartlkk,
Thanks for the link to the EDI Engine Timing. I just had to replace the intake gaskets on a 2001 4.3. I pulled the distributor and mentally remembered where it was pointing. I got the gaskets in fine and put the distributor back and in and it wouldn't start. I thought no big deal, I'll bring it up to TDC and put the distributor back in. LOL
I am old school and and haven't mess with distributors since the 70's and I knew what I was doing. I looked where the #1 wire was pointing (3 o'clock) and lined the distributor up accordingly. Well it wouldn't start. Long story short, I pulled this distributor in and out about 3 dozen times over the past 4 days with no luck. Little did I know that where the #1 wire points on the outside of the cap is not where it actually is inside the cap (about 8 o'clock).
Once I look at the link you provided I looked inside my cap and seen where #1 really is. Once I got it back in it fired right up.
Again thanks for the link. I was about to light a match to this thing.
Dave
Thanks for the link to the EDI Engine Timing. I just had to replace the intake gaskets on a 2001 4.3. I pulled the distributor and mentally remembered where it was pointing. I got the gaskets in fine and put the distributor back and in and it wouldn't start. I thought no big deal, I'll bring it up to TDC and put the distributor back in. LOL
I am old school and and haven't mess with distributors since the 70's and I knew what I was doing. I looked where the #1 wire was pointing (3 o'clock) and lined the distributor up accordingly. Well it wouldn't start. Long story short, I pulled this distributor in and out about 3 dozen times over the past 4 days with no luck. Little did I know that where the #1 wire points on the outside of the cap is not where it actually is inside the cap (about 8 o'clock).
Once I look at the link you provided I looked inside my cap and seen where #1 really is. Once I got it back in it fired right up.
Again thanks for the link. I was about to light a match to this thing. Dave
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