So. My oil pan sprung a leak! What's the first thing I do? Go ask a shop how much a repair will cost. No way that's happening on this guys budget. So I started doing some research into oil pan removal on a 4.3L 4X4. I read through a page or two of Google searches as well as a few pages of you tube videos. Most of what I've read is people saying that the engine needs to be completely removed, some say that you only have to tilt the engine. Can I get some insight into the truth from someone who has had some hands on experience with this situation. Thank's a lot! By the way I've gotten about everything from the engine unplugged/unbolted except for the three bolts on the bell housing.

 

Every time I've had to remove an oil pan from a 4.3 4x4 GM (Blazer, Bravada, etc) Ive had to completely remove the engine. I suppose you could drop the entire front suspension if you wanted to go that route..... honestly though, I'm not even sure that would work.

 

I dont believe it can be done without creating a space between the pan and the cross member
Its a pretty tight fit in there and you also have a oil pump assembly projecting to nearly the bottom of the pan

A friend hit a frozen slush slab that had fallen off a car on a really cold winter morning
I mucked the punched oil pan on the beetle with nothing more than a can of brake clean and a tube of silicone
It made it to the shop without loosing a drop with only about 1 1/2 hours of curing

If you can get it clean and dry , I would try painting the area over with an epoxy like JB Weld

 

JB Weld, amazing stuff. Sealed a cracked block on a snowblower 4 years ago, still going

 

yeah ive done a few oil pans with j.b. weld you just really have to make sure the area is clean. i had a 85 s10 that was leaking oil at the very front of the pan so i jacked the front up as high as it would go, drained out the oil for a day, wire wheeled the heck out of it and jb welded up the pin holes. held for years til i sold it, also done gas tanks too with this stuff.

so if you just have a small rust spot, yeah j.b. weld it

 

So... This whole oil pan issue has been resolved.

For the Jaybe weld, I don't use it on or recommend it for any fluid line or fluid assemblies. Only for a few weeks at the most just to get by if that has to be used.

Here are detailed steps of how to get to a 4.3L 4X4 Jimmy, Blazer, Bravada oil pan. This is how I got the oil pan off and back on. I got the engine droped but nothing further as far as puting it back together.
1. Block back wheels. Jack front of vehicle. Place Jack stands on chassis safetly.
2. Drain oil and dispose of properly.
3. Remove passenger wheel.
4. Remove wheel hub nut.
5. Remove brake assembly. Do not dissconect lines. Place assembly on Jack so not to break lines.
6. Remove wheel roater. May need to bang with hammer wisely.
7. Remove all ball joint bolts and wheel hub assembly. Do not disconnect lines.
8. The passenger side drive axel should be left free to minipulate at wheel assembly area. Time to put on some safety glasses and get under the vehivehicle.
9. Once under the vehicle begin to disconnect the passenger side axel, start with the electronic connection.
10. Unbolt the transfer case housing. Prepair for gear fluid to come out (stinky) it may also be helpful to disconnect accessible transfer case mounting bolt for adjustment.
11. Shift passenger side axel and transfer case half threw the wheel housing being careful not to drop any gears, rip any boots, or break that electrical connection.
12. That should give a fairly large access area to the oil pan.
13. Unbolt transmission mount nuts.
14. Remove engine mounting bolts and nuts.
15. Disconnect distributer cap and place forward. Ensure there is clearence behind engine.
16. Hook Jack to engine wisely, begin to lift engine carefully making sure not to damage anything.
17. The oil pan should now have enough clearance to be removed. It may take some wiggling so be careful.
18. Now that the old one is out the new one can be put in. See Hanes Manuel for proper installation.
19. Once installed put it back together.

I haven't put mine all the way back together yet. I'll let us know how that goes soon. This took me about four hours to do. I'm a noon though.

 

when you reinstall pan gasket and you read the instructions and they say install gasket dry [don't believe everything you read] do the old school way and add a little rtv on the front and the rear u shaped parts along with at least a inch back on the flat part of the gasket - installed dry they leak - I know this first hand

 

Thanks for pointing that out. It is very important to use rtv at the back of the pan. I put it all the way around myself. Another thing to note doing it this way is making sure the gasket lines up properly for a tight fit. You have to feel for a tight fit as you're bolting it up. Make sure the gasket seats with your fingers.

 

I'd like to correct myself. The component the axle is connected to is called the front differential, not the transfer case.