Can anyone help with a '97 Jimmy 4x4 4.3l oil pan?
#1
Can anyone help with a '97 Jimmy 4x4 4.3l oil pan?
Hi there sorry that my first post is just asking for help but I'm stuck.
Shop book says detach diff and push forward. It doesn't say remove diff. I did manage to get it off (just barely) with the "move forward" after d'cing the steering linkages but i'm worried that going back in will only get screwed up and damage the seals and smear rtv everywhere.
What is the most efficient way to remove the diff if that is my only option and are there any other options?
Worst part about this is my landlord just showed up pissed off that a vehicle is torn apart outside. I didn't think doing the timing cover would be such a nightmare!
Thank you in advance.
Shop book says detach diff and push forward. It doesn't say remove diff. I did manage to get it off (just barely) with the "move forward" after d'cing the steering linkages but i'm worried that going back in will only get screwed up and damage the seals and smear rtv everywhere.
What is the most efficient way to remove the diff if that is my only option and are there any other options?
Worst part about this is my landlord just showed up pissed off that a vehicle is torn apart outside. I didn't think doing the timing cover would be such a nightmare!
Thank you in advance.
#3
Maybe in a perfect world but I could not move the aluminum pan by taking 2 bolts and when it came apart, the seal was not great.
#4
More complications?!
So I tried to get the pan in with no success, although i didn't try very hard because of the seal.
I decided to try and further push the diff but (from linked image) I can't get #10 cable to separate from #11 housing.... Is there an internal lock? It kinda looks like it in the drawing.
I decided to try and further push the diff but (from linked image) I can't get #10 cable to separate from #11 housing.... Is there an internal lock? It kinda looks like it in the drawing.
#5
Undo the 3 bolts on the housing the shifter cable goes in and it comes off. Or unhook the cable under the battery on the rubber bladder looking thing.
And on the oil pan you still have to loosen all the bolts you just take out the first few on each side. I've done it on stamped and cast pans, works the same.
And on the oil pan you still have to loosen all the bolts you just take out the first few on each side. I've done it on stamped and cast pans, works the same.
#6
Thanks. I got it off (only from below battery, the wire wont budge) / forward and cover on (after some filing the lip/ears still, otherwise it was pulling the oil pan seal in with it) and just pray the oil seal isn't screwed. I personally expect this to leak worse now than before.
Ever hear the one about the engineer that caught a mechanic doing his wife? We still pay to this day....
Ever hear the one about the engineer that caught a mechanic doing his wife? We still pay to this day....
Last edited by Mtn Tow; 10-19-2012 at 03:35 PM.
#7
I'm a mechanic for a living, your preaching to the choir. I have an 05 fullsize chevy in my bay right now and would take my s-series over it any day of the week. You just think your dealing with 10lbs in a 2lb sack.
#8
I get to do 'emergency' road-side service but some of my better customers take advantage and get me into these hell bound jobs.
Finally got it all together. Had stripped the crank snout a bit b not using proper tool. Amazingly, I didn't see any leaks after all!
Thanks a lot for the help.
Finally got it all together. Had stripped the crank snout a bit b not using proper tool. Amazingly, I didn't see any leaks after all!
Thanks a lot for the help.
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