In my past experience it is partial/complete loss of VSS signal that results in strange shifting or loss of some or all gears after 1st or 2nd (can't remember exactly). I've even heard of a loose alternator stud/charge wire casuing shift issues.

What sort of specifics you need. Dimensions? It's all very basic. I started off using a drillpress as a press. Nothing has an extreme amount of pressure on it. When I moved I lost access to it, so I had to make what you see out of scraps I picked up as I came across it.

 

finally got my ATSG manual in along with my rebuild kit. The seller recommended a few upgrades and I was able to get the trans removed and torn down into the major components. Now that I know what the tools in your picture actually are used for I have a better idea on how to fab my own. One question, what do you use to re size and install the Teflon input shaft seals? Ive read a bunch of "horror" stories on these and I'm thinking I might see if the local trans shop can install them for me. So much for the last round of synthetic fluid I used, next time will be round 3

Thanks

 

Well I think I found the source of my issues I have a rebuild kit sitting in the garage along with a corvette servo and beast sun shell. Now I just need to get a front input assembly since this one isn't in the best shape. I think someone changed the fluid before I bought it, was nice and red when I drained it the first time. Sadly I never got it up to speed when test driving it since it had a spider issue and leaking intake gasket. Rebuild in process.

 

What I started using to resize the seals is electrical tape. I give it one or two wraps with the back side(non-sticky) against the seal, then reverse the tape and begin wrapping with the sticky face against the already placed tape. While doing all this try to wrap the tape tightly(slightly stretching while wrapping) to put pressure on the seal. Because the tape stretches it will contract and shrink the seal. I actually had one that I wrapped too tight and it almost shrunk the seal down too much. The seals almost resize themselves to a point so an extreme amount of pressure isn't needed.

Sometimes I wonder why transmission tools cost what they do since just about every tool can be duplicated with random stuff laying around a garage. But I like being creative and living by a motto of: If you want something enough, you'll figure out how to get it.

Don't forget the Vasoline for assembly lube.

 

Rather fresh post to reply to.
If you change the filter and fluid be careful when installing it. The A/B solinoids can be easily damaged, there's is little clearence between the catalyic converter and the transmission mount. If the solinoids get damaged during installation the vehicle will miss shift points.
If the vehicle has high RPM's after the fluid change while in drive it means there's air in the hydrualics that need to be worked out. Run the engine hot, put on the park brake and go through each gear and then back to park. Let the vehicle idle, check the fluid again and add as nessesary. Repet the process in small increments. Drive only short distances for testing or permante damage could occure.

 

I went ahead and bought a rebuilt input drum assembly that came with new teflon seals installed. I had to replace the sun gear anyhow due to wear so I picked up a new gear set as well. I'm rebuilding the pump and keeping my fingers crossed that the valve body is ok with a simple "rebuild". That coupled with my rebuild kit should get me close to where I need to be. I picked up some trans assembly lube as well.

My issue was most likely clutches. There was only a single clutch in the 3/4 pack with friction material on it and one was broken in half.