94 4.3 Vortec CSS/CKS wont Start
#1
94 4.3 Vortec CSS/CKS wont Start
Hey there guys. I am pretty familiar with the mechanics of most GM motors but having a 1994 S10 Blazer has added a whole new level of understanding emissions and ECM. The issue I have is a crank no start situation. I spent $500 replacing the fuel pump which I was told was bad. Prior to that I had a new starter put in due to excessive cranking. I also have a new fuel filter and fuel solenoid. I have been to 3 different places and the issue has not been diagnosed properly. So I have been going through as much of the procedures as I can with limited tools. (Scan tool).
Current state is this. I turn the key and bump it a couple times and as it cranks, I hear the NEW fuel pump engage. It used to fire up after about 5-10 bumps with the ignition. Once it started it ran fine. I would shut it off and when I restart it, it would fire up almost immediately. When its cold, it would take longer to fire up. NOW, it wont fire up at all. I was told to check the Crankshaft Sensor. Or the Camshaft Sensor. After inspection of the motor, I was unable to locate the CKS in the position I was told to look. (passenger side behind the Pulleys around the camshaft area.
Do note that this truck had a replacement motor put in before I bought it. Now I see where someone has spliced a red lead from an existing wire to the wire loom near the top front of the intake. I am guessing they bypass the CKS lead which was not in that location of the motor. I have a photo as well.
Am I crazy or is there a CSS or CKS located elsewhere? Maybe the Distributor? I am baffled and any advice or suggestions would be awesome.
I apologize for the essay but I wanted to be as clear as possible. I should also let you know, the check engine light comes on and stays on, the transmission shifts hard into second and the odometer and gear tree indicator on the dash will disappear often.
Thank You!
The 2 attached photos are the overview of the motor and the red wire that was spliced running from the lower front block area up to a top center wire harness
Current state is this. I turn the key and bump it a couple times and as it cranks, I hear the NEW fuel pump engage. It used to fire up after about 5-10 bumps with the ignition. Once it started it ran fine. I would shut it off and when I restart it, it would fire up almost immediately. When its cold, it would take longer to fire up. NOW, it wont fire up at all. I was told to check the Crankshaft Sensor. Or the Camshaft Sensor. After inspection of the motor, I was unable to locate the CKS in the position I was told to look. (passenger side behind the Pulleys around the camshaft area.
Do note that this truck had a replacement motor put in before I bought it. Now I see where someone has spliced a red lead from an existing wire to the wire loom near the top front of the intake. I am guessing they bypass the CKS lead which was not in that location of the motor. I have a photo as well.
Am I crazy or is there a CSS or CKS located elsewhere? Maybe the Distributor? I am baffled and any advice or suggestions would be awesome.
I apologize for the essay but I wanted to be as clear as possible. I should also let you know, the check engine light comes on and stays on, the transmission shifts hard into second and the odometer and gear tree indicator on the dash will disappear often.
Thank You!
The 2 attached photos are the overview of the motor and the red wire that was spliced running from the lower front block area up to a top center wire harness
Last edited by shecky; 12-03-2013 at 03:35 AM.
#2
the cam sesnor is in the distributer know as a pick-up as well. You need to go rent a fuel pressure tester from a parts store and check fuel pressure and leakdown rates. It is common to have a problem with a leaky fuel pressure regulator and/or nut kit on this version of the 4.3
#4
Ok, I have removed the cap and rotor to get a better look at the Pick up coil. Upon inspection, I noticed some severe scoring and greenish corrosion build up on the contacts within the cap. Have not messed with the fuel pressure checks yet. My battery is drained and pretty old so I am jumping it to even attempt the starting tests.
Now tell me if I am wrong. Do I need to remove the distributor completely and disassemble the shaft in order to replace the pick up coil? I have a new cap and rotor but just wanted to see if there was any input on the fouled distributor contacts. Thanks again!
Getting closer
Now tell me if I am wrong. Do I need to remove the distributor completely and disassemble the shaft in order to replace the pick up coil? I have a new cap and rotor but just wanted to see if there was any input on the fouled distributor contacts. Thanks again!
Getting closer
#5
i had the same issue sorta, turned out i had the old style pick up in my dist. with the riveted in magnet and was giving me all kinds of hell as where the rivets where it was cracked all the way thru on each rivet , put in a new dist. and runs great 221k miles
#6
I replaced the CSS on the distributor and a new cap and rotor. Still won't start so I am leaning towards the fuel system. One other thing I need to mention. I ran out of gas a few times and I was told serious damage could occur if you run out of gas with this motor. Opinions? Also what is the best way to check fuel pressure and narrow it down? I have a new pump and filter and solenoid. How do I check to see if the injectors are bad? I am putting a new battery in it and was thinking about spraying some starter fluid into the intake ans see if I can at least get it started. I really like this truck and would hate to let it go. Anyone please help?
#7
to check your injectors you have to remove the upper half of the planum.When you have it off look for areas inside of there and see if you have clean washed areas.This would indicate the spider looking unit fuel regulater connecting the injectors is bad.Also if you can get to your plugs and check and see if they are wet.If the are fuel soaked the engine wont fire up.
#8
to check your injectors you have to remove the upper half of the planum.When you have it off look for areas inside of there and see if you have clean washed areas.This would indicate the spider looking unit fuel regulater connecting the injectors is bad.Also if you can get to your plugs and check and see if they are wet.If the are fuel soaked the engine wont fire up.
#9
True, however as the captain would say ......let's start with a fuel pressure leak down test first!!!!!!!!! Please do not buy any more parts to throw at your trk!!!!do a search for fuel system? Anyhow there is a sticky here on the forum for testing the fuel pressure rent or purchase a tester and report back with your numbers.....
#10
No problem.... I wouldn't be a bot suprised if the spider was leaking causing the plugs to foul out!!!! Unfortunately the original spider assy is garbage!!! But u are in the right place for help!!! I was gonna tell u that the trk will run without the cam sensor plugged in, however u had posted that u already replaced it.....lol
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